JPower210

Duckworks is where I've sen them: http://www.duckworksbbs.com/tools/redhawk.htm I got mine at Duckworks on the recommendation of the manufacturer- And I continue to really like the system- I have used it for seat tops and things as well as a clamping system that is easy and fast like for the rudder for my 17.

Hey Tim- I am using the Red Hawk system, which is essentially the same although the tools, and the materials, seem to be somewhat/significantly cheaper. I have air and the manual stapler- PAR is right- that manual stapler will wear you out- I use them for more things than I thought I would, currently on a Core Sound 17- I'll never go back. I would suggest a cheap little pancake compressor and the air tools- if it's a one off I bet you could sell the stuff after with no problem- JP

Hi Greg- welcome to the B and B world! I have an OB 20 kit sitting here waiting for me to get started- but I have to finish my CS17 first- shouldn't be too long until I start, depending on weather, but I look forward to seeing your build- Take lots of pictures! JP

Thrillsbe- Question on the clinometer- why not use it to set mast rake? Just curious- that tool is on my wish list, and I thought it might be good for setting the mast base and the rake on the 17 that I am building- Thanks-

Hey y'all- I am not too far from flipping my 17 and fairing/glassing the hull. I am using Xynole for the whole hull- there are lots of oysters around here, and I sail in really shallow water most of the time- I have never used Xynole, and am sold on the abrasion advantages- the question is, do I still run a strip of FG tape down the chine for strength since the Xynole is better at abrasion than strength, or will the Xynole suffice? And if I do use the tape I assume that it goes under the Xynole. And for those that have done a hand layup on a hull with Xynole- is it worth it to use peel ply? Thanks- JP

Meaning that it would not be an issue on the Mk-1? I do have the aft deck, no hatch in the deck, so from a motor perspective I see where, as Dale says, not having the aft deck would be helpful, but since it is there, it seems like keeping the reach across the deck as short as possible would be optimal (predominately sitting on port side, reaching across deck on port side, would be preferable to a reach across the boat in addition to across the deck) I know I am overthinking this. Additionally, the motor will be on a bracket rather than a cutout in the deck-

I knew it would't be too long before someone jumped in with an oars comment- I definitely prefer oars, and always have a set onboard, but when the current is running 5 knots, the wind dies and there is a million dollar plus sportfisher down current from me, well that motor sure comes in handy. And when the wind dies and my 3 year old decides it is time to go home, it's even more handy

I may be missing something obvious, but I am trying to figure out why some folks put a motor on the starboard side and some on the port? I am leaning towards port as I am right handed an would probably be sitting on the port side most often when motoring which would let me get to the controls easier, as well as putting that sheet tangling handle outboard as far as possible. The downside to that is then I have my weight, and the motor, on the same side. I have a Honda 2.5 so the weight is not a huge issue. Thoughts? JP

I was hoping to bring my CS17, but I am not as far along as I would like- and I am not going to stress about deadlines. I am hoping that that I, and my 3 yr old son Dylan who is helping build, will be able to catch a ride on a 17- and maybe on the OB20 since that is the next boat. JP

If I were doing it over again, especially for the job you are describing, it would be the staple gun first- and I would do the Redhawk system again, because I have been happy with it and the cost seemed reasonable. JP

I had the same concerns about the Raptor tool cost- I ended up going with the Redhawk equivalent- the tools are significantly cheaper, and I ended up with an air stape gun, brad gun and hand stapler. I use all three quite a bit and haven't had any troubles. I really like the system for all sorts of things and I love not having to pull staples or brads- as an example, when I was putting in the seat tops on the 17- and soon, the planking on a OB20- I sure wish I had these tools for the previous boats. One key thing to remember- the fasteners have fairly good tensile strength, but very little in the way of shear- JP

Me too, well, at least the second one does

Now if I could just convince my wife of all this sound logic about multiple boats I am hearing... And I completely get the building one while the next is on paper- I have a kit CS 17 going together, a SailRig for my Chesapeake 17 kayak, and a SUP all in process in my shop- and I gently remind Graham that I am ready for that OB 20 kit anytime he is....

Thanks all- Rick- don't worry about the measurement- I will mock it up and see how it works out- JP

Good afternoon All- I am thinking about oarlock placement on the CS17 I am building. I am planning on sails with reef points and tracks, and, at this point am not planning on the optional mast step unless the consensus is that it is key. My thought is that I don't really want to be moving the mast in conditions that would require it, and the reef points will give me the options that I need. As such, I am trying to figure out the best spot for oarlock placement that would let me row forward of the mizzen- does anyone have measurements that have worked out well in practice? I don't mind building up a seat that would sit on top of the CB case. But, I am also open to suggestions! Thanks! JP

Hi all- I am putting in seat sides now and am curious what folks have done for taping. It looks like the plans call for one layer of tape on each side of the seat side to the bottom. This seems like it would make it hard to smooth out the cockpit before painting. What have folks done? Thanks.

It's been a good weekend for boat building- the family was out of town for the long weekend so I got a fair amount of uninterrupted time in the boatshop- now if I could just figure out some magical way to not have to wait for epoxy- The hull is tack welded together- Glassing is done in the bow, although I still have the bulkhead to do- inwales are in- (what a chore single handed...I used Alan's video of the 15 build to guide the inwale process. Sides are prepped for fillet and taping this week and I should have the keel board in by next weekend. Pictures are coming- Question- are folks taping under the keel board? My inclination is not to since the board itself will act like one big piece of tape- but I am planning on keeping the boat for a long time- I will be glassing the whole hull outside. Happy 4th everyone! JP

Not another build thread... After having my plans for quite a long time, and having a full time job and two little ones (3yrs and 4 mos), I finally got started. Graham and Alan cut me a kit for that jumpstarted the project. Most of my time in the shop is an hour here or there, usually after everyone goes to bed in my house. I picked up the kit a couple of weeks ago, and yesterday, number 323 went 3D!!!! I have a couple of days of shop time over the holiday weekend so planning on getting a jump on the process. Inwales should go in today and by the end of the weekend I hope to have the wires all out- Stay tuned for pics- Thanks Graham and Alan for an excellent kit- everything is fitting together perfectly so far- JP

I, fortunately have both, but it really depends on what you will use it for over the long term- I use my jig saw all the time (which is a corded Bosch that replaced a worthless Dewalt), but for long gradual curves like hull panels I rech for a circular saw with the blade set at just enough depth to get through the material. That seems to work better for me than a jigsaw for those types of cuts. JP

Good morning Folks! Quick question- how have all of you 17 builders dealt with the transition from 1/4 to 3/8 ply on the bottom. I am assuming the step goes inside the boat- have you all faired it out with epoxy? Sanded it down? Enquiring minds want to know.... well at least one does. Thanks. JP

I have gravitated towards storing my dinghy on deck upside down to avoid it filling with water, provide space for a hatch underneath to open, etc. Currently, I am using blocks that I made, from mahogany that are L shaped, with an eyebolt in each for a tie down. The blocks are mounted so that the upward leg of the L prevents side to side movement and the portion where the dinghy rests on the gunwale is padded with leather. I mounted the blocks with big screws set in epoxy, with the idea that if I ever took a big wave I would rather the mounts ripped off without leaving a gaping hole in the deck. Luckily I have not had to test my theory as of yet. Other than the pain of having to flip the boat upside down, it has worked out well for me. This is on a Westsail 32 so if you have a higher mounting point, like on a trawler, the concerns might be a bit different. JP

Hi David- the boat is looking fantastic! Quick question for you- I am planning on copying the well that you have built for my little Honda- did you choose to put it on the port side for any particular reason? I was thinking of the starboard side for ease of access to the controls, but do you think that would be the cause of more tangles? Looks like Alan has his mount on the port side as well- maybe I am missing something simple? Thanks. JP

An update... I did a little test with the epoxy pumps- I thought that they were 1 pump to 1 pump, but they are not- they are the same- I mixed a batch with 1 to 1, and a batch with 1 pump to 2. The second hardened up just as I would expect it to, the first ended up being like a hard block of silicone. So, my current plan is to use a heat gun to try and separate the joint, and get all the goo off and try again. If that does not work, then I will cut the panels and add new scarfs to make up the difference. Anyone see any issues with the heatgun approach? Thanks.

Thanks Chick- it was a different batch, and actually, different epoxy. It's not my first rodeo with building so I am fairly confident on the mixing- I am headed out of town for a couple days so maybe I will give it until I get back to make a final decision. If I do cut it out and replace, do you see any issue with two scarfs in a fairly small span? I am a little worried about hull fairness at that spot. For B and B epoxy with pumps- 1 pump to 1 pump or 2:1? I am using West mostly as I have a bunch, but got some B and B from Hokey Hydro on this site. I unfortunately failed to ask him about the pumps- I suppose the right answer is to weigh/measure the output of the pumps and see. By the way- the OB20 you built is an inspiration to me- and that is the next project right after the 17- Graham is working through a kit for me for the OB- JP Thanks MM- you are giving me a little hope

Hi Folks- I love it when a build starts this way- I have just started on a CS17 kit- got my sides scarfed together- on one joint, the one in the middle of the panels, my epoxy is not hardening fully- I am not sure why, but suspect the mix ratio which I am fixing- the epoxy is a little soft, able to be dented a bit with a fingernail pushed hard. I have tried to disassemble the joint to redo, but there is enough of a bond that I am worried that I will destroy wood if I try and take it apart fully, and of course if I do that then I have the issue of shorter panels if I try and recut the scarf- so the question is: Do I pull it apart and take the risk with the potential for having to scarf in another piece? Or...use tape and glass the inside of the joint? I will be glassing the whole outside so that joint would have glass on both sides. There is enough bond now that handling the long panels and moving them has not caused any separation. Thanks! JP