Ed Hawkins

Well, I'm no expert but two problems I can see with reverse rake would be: 1 a shift forward of the center of lateral resistance which I think would increase weather helm significantly, even in a little boat like a spindrift. 2 when you happen to hit a submerged pot warp or anchor rode it would tend to travel up the leading edge and get stuck at the intersection of the db and the bottom. Probably easy enough to clear if you know what you hit but some reverse rake makes it easier to deal with. just my $.02.

I have seen the North Tonawanda Police divers using a LARC for training in the Niagara River. It does look like an ideal diving platform.

Hello, I am fortunate to have one of those Lie nielson block planes that my Dad got me as a present once. It is wonderful to use and keeps it's edge for a long time. If I were buying new I'd look at the Lee Valley planes. My #4 smoother is from Lee Valley and is a fine tool at a more reasonable price. I agree with Charlie, the #4 makes short work of scarfing okume. The scary sharp method works well I use it most of the time now. I have a piece of 1/4" thick plate glass about 1 foot square and a whole lot of rubber stick on feet to support it. I pull it down off the shelf, zip-zip and away to work again. Sharp is really important to safety and enjoyability. Cheers,

Here in Western New York you have Buffalo and the Northtowns (where I am) which gets a little snow. We have about 6 inches on the ground now, no big deal. The Southtowns (Hamburg, Orchard Park, Jamestown and the Ellicotville ski areas) they get pounded a bit more. Buffalo's reputation just never recovered after '77. It is just snow, we push it out of the way and get on with it. I'll take a 2 six pack blizzard any day over hurricanes, earthuakes, tornadoes and such. My story and I'm sticking to it.

I used to sail on Thistles quite a lot and occaisionally on a Flying Scot. The boards are wieghted at the bottom, the pivot point is at the intersection of the bottom of the boat and the forward end of the centerboard slot. There is a bit of force at that point so it would need to be pretty solid. I don't ever remember having problems with the board not cooperating.

For Wild Dingo, the woodenboat store and probably Amazon sells a book called The Expectant Father's Cradle Boat Book. Details a strip built Bahama dinghy and a plywood pram. I built the pram for my nephew. I gave the book to a good friend when they were having their first and he was almost in tears.

I'd vote for either a weekend skiff or a Dave Carnell version of Windsprint. I build one of the Dave Carnell boats last year and had a good bit of fun with it. As directed, it's a bit flexible. I'll probably add a little framing this spring.

I have Tom Hill designed, plywood lapstrake canoe I built a couple of years ago, 14' 4" or so. Where are you?

Dave, For a time I lived in Columbus, Indiana and I know of which you speak. That ice under the snow thing is no fun at all. Especially when the towns don't have the equipment to get rid of it. We had 8 inches of snow one time, it shut the town down for two days. They plowed our street with a road grader because the plow (singular) was otherwise engaged. Here in the Buffalo area 18 inches in a night, the roads are clear by 8:00am. Lake Erie is running about 5 degrees F above normal, the lake effect machine might get us yet!

Graham, Are the sails laced to the mast or on a track? does the snotter remain in the same position on the mast or is it on some kind of sliding hitch on the mast?

Steve, The paint job looks good! Can I get a little off topic here and ask about the electric car race? I'm a Technology Teacher and my club is getting ready to race and Electrathon electric race car. Feel free to email me directly if you like.

I built a Tom Hill designed Daisy May. The book (Ultralight Boatbuilding)says it's 13'10", I stretched mine to 14'6" with no apparent unfairness. It is not a quick boat to build but I did learn an awful lot in the process. It is a stunning boat to look at even with my screw ups. Painted white outside, oiled ash gunwales and seats, bright inside planks. The PVC clamps and the little jig for doing the winding bevel are highly recommended. It came out about 40 lbs. Time spent on the mold is well worth the effort. If you're interested I have the stations.

I think the other thing going on here in the plans is that you take slices of flatsawn wood and reassemble it with each piece rotated 90 degrees from how it was in the board. When put together this way, the panel is essentially a quarter sawn board. Look at the end of the board, most of what you get at the home center will show the annular rings making an arc from one edge to the other (flat sawn). Quarter sawn boards show the annular rings in a nearly straight line from face to face. Quartersawn boards expand and contract much less and cup and warp much less than flat sawn.

I think the other thing going on here in the plans is that you take slices of flatsawn wood and reassemble it with each piece rotated 90 degrees from how it was in the board. When put together this way, the panel is essentially a quarter sawn board. Look at the end of the board, most of what you get at the home center will show the annular rings making an arc from one edge to the other (flat sawn). Quarter sawn boards show the annular rings in a nearly straight line from face to face. Quartersawn boards expand and contract much less and cup and warp much less than flat sawn.

Yes, Bill's CS17 is on the cover of the most recent Messing about in Boats. Several good reviews of the St. Michael's event. I really do have to get there one of these years.

I'm sure I speak for all of us, hope you and Carla ride out Isabel with a minimum of fuss and trouble. We'll be thinking of you.

Pat, It would be great to see some pictures. Could you provide some details as to what type/brand of track, how it's attached, how it's aligned, where you bought it? I know it's a lot to ask but this seems to be a good system.

What would be the positives and negatives of lacing the sails to the mast. If done properly (back an forth instead of spiral wound) the sail should travel freely up and down. I think you could reef pretty easily like this. Does anyone have experience with this method?

I emailed Rose Merrit back asking to confirm the quality of the tubing, alloy and temper due to the low price making me a little skeptical. I haven't heard back but I suspect what you say is true. Think I'll just go through Shapiro Supply. I know they're good and know what they are talking about. Thanks.

I've always had good luck with ash for gunwales. I've done a couple of canoes. Ash is relatively light and bendy, takes screws and glue pretty well and is pretty tough.

Thank you Tim from Denton TX, here is what Morris Coupling said... Thank you for your inquiry. Yes we do supply Aluminum tubing in 6061-T6 material. We supply it in 20 ft lengths. The 3" OD 14 ga. (.083 wall) is 2.68 per foot. The 2.5" OD 16 ga (.065 wall) is 1.78 per foot. The 2" OD 16 ga (.065 wall) is 1.40 per foot. This material is stocked in Knoxville,TN. We have a 50.00 minimum order. If you are interested in ordering we would need to set up either an open account or credit card account. If you have any questions, please feel free to call me. Thank you, Rose Merritt Customer Service Rep Morris Coupling Co. Phone: 800-426-1579 Fax: 800-545-1399

I have been looking into tubing for my CS 20 masts. I am having trouble finding 3" AL 6061-T6 in .083 wall thickness. .065 wall is no trouble. Shapiro Supply can do all .065 for about $200.00. Will that be strong enough?