Graphite powder

[Hirilonde]

I have been looking on line for graphite powder to add to the epoxy for my centerboard and the inside of the trunk.  I can find 6 oz. jars for art purposes for $12 and I can find 8 lb. buckets for industrial purposes for $24.  How much do I need?  And are both products basically the same?

[Dnjost]

I have a can of WEST 423-6 graphite powder (6 oz) that I purchased over 20 years ago.  I used app 1.5 oz to do the blades and bottom of a Cape Cod Frosty.  It sands easily and makes for a very slick surface.  I would think that a 6 oz jar would be more than sufficient.  Not sure what is in the arts and crafts jars.  

 

Jamestown Distributors has some http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3763&familyName=WEST+System+Graphite+Powder

 

or you can meet me 1/2 way and I will give you the remainder of the can!  (the System 3 LPU paint wet sands to a similar slick surface with patience and elbow grease).   

[PAR]

Bateau.com sells it as well, so does DuckWorks. You should check the particulate size to make sure the industrial stuff is the same size as the filler powders. I know a lot of folks like to use this stuff on foils, but unless you have a boat that's capable of mid teens (MPH) speeds and have well designed and shaped foils, there's no real advantage to using this stuff. Yeah, it might be a little slippery, but the boat has to have the potential to take advantage of it.

[Hirilonde]

I am not looking for speed.  I am considering this option for the reduced friction retracting the board and the reduced wear.  I should probably go with the West or other version designated specifically for use in epoxy.  I don't know that it matters, but more importantly, I just don't know.

[PAR]

I use Xynole inside of cases for abrasion. Since their flat, I apply the fabric, wetout then place a piece of plexi over it and weight it down. The result is a resin rich, perfectly smooth and flat surface on the inside of the case sides, where the board will scrape. Sometimes I'll do the same on the portion of the board that remains in the case, but usually, I just use 'glass on the foil sections. A bullet proof version would have Xynole on both.

[LennieG]

I bought west systems from west marine 12oz 17.00 and it is a life time supply. Can't speak for the benefit but it was pretty cool looking going on.

[Alex]

Next time I make a center board case I am going to epoxy in an acrylic chopping board. You can buy these in many different thicknesses.

[Chick Ludwig]

I don't think that the epoxy will bond with the acrylic very well, if at all. You would have to bolt/screw it. Maybe 5200 or Sikaflex would be better.

 

I've never seen a problem with using epoxy and glass inside the trunk, and on the board. With such a large "wear area", it would take forever to wear through. Be sure to leave clearance between the board and trunk sides. And water helps lubricate it, too. I like Par's suggestion using plexi or similar to get a perfectly flat surface.

[clt_capt]

I am not looking for speed.  I am considering this option for the reduced friction retracting the board and the reduced wear.  I should probably go with the West or other version designated specifically for use in epoxy.  I don't know that it matters, but more importantly, I just don't know.

The West Graphite Powder goes a long way - You can also get the same stuff from RAKA - Again - a little goes a long way.

[Hirilonde]

Good stuff folks, thanks.  I think I will go with Dynel, pressure laminated as Paul suggest for the sides of the trunk.  Then dressed with a coat or 2 with graphite powder.  The boat will just get the graphite/epoxy.  I really like the shape I got and don't want to make the board any thicker.  Making a new board down the road wouldn't kill me, but I don't want to touch the trunk once the boat is done.