smccormick Posted December 2, 2017 Posted December 2, 2017 Making good progress. Like to see what's going on with others' projects. Quote
PAR Posted December 3, 2017 Posted December 3, 2017 What I like to do is lightly spray the foamed areas with spray adhesive. Not much, just a dusting so the next part will stick, which is lining the area with "visqueen" (plastic sheeting). I use spacers in the waterways and limbers and drape the plastic into the stickum, pulling out wrinkles as I go. With the area "buttered up" with plastic sheeting, I pour the foam and let it cure. Then I use a squirt bottle of lacquer thinner and release the plastic sheeting, with it's oozed out foam blob, from the spaces. The spray adhesive comes off easily and the plastic protected foam just lifts out as a block. Peel off the sheeting and you have a form fit foam block, that can be shaped with more water ways or simply dropped or glued back in position. Often I don't glue the blocks back in, simply hiding them under the sole (dry) once it's bonded down. I do this to limit the amount of foam in intimate contact with the wood and provided channels for moisture to fall down to the lowest portions of the bilge to be drained and pumped out. Additionally, if the foam is to remain enclosed or entombed forever, I like it to be sealed (neat epoxy) then glued or placed in it's hole/compartment. I've dug out way too much soaked foam over the years to think it's not going to absorb much and the intimate contact thing has me dreaming about future rot issues. Quote
Adios Posted December 3, 2017 Author Posted December 3, 2017 Hmmm. I never would of thought of that technique nor have i seen is described. Definitely sounds better than my method in regards to possible future rot issues. Next time... Thanks Quote
Chick Ludwig Posted December 3, 2017 Posted December 3, 2017 What a great way to install foam, PAR. I repaired powerboats for many years and also experienced how poured in, or shot in foam would rot floors and stringers, and hold water. Boston Whaler type boats can soak up so much water that they can't even get on plane anymore. They are almost impossible to repair because of the way they are built. On more "traditionally" built boats, my solution was to cut and shape new flotation from solid polyurethane blocks that I purchased from my supplier. 1 Quote
Adios Posted December 3, 2017 Author Posted December 3, 2017 Yes, that's a great idea! it's worth it's own thread and some photos. Wish I had known about it or researched it better before pouring foam. No going back now but i'm sure that there is adequate space for drainage and some standing bilge water under the foam. Quote
PAR Posted December 3, 2017 Posted December 3, 2017 That's the same as me Chick, just to many repairs over the years. The bottom and sides of these foam "blocks" get channels carved into them, once the plastic sheeting is peeled off. Centerline channels, also athwartship ones to let moisture drain down the flanks into the centerline channel, etc. are what I focus on, then seal it up with epoxy. Cutting glued together blocks work will too, though a lot more fitting and shaving compaired to a form fitting pour in process, probably just as effective I'd imagine. In these enclosed spaces, condensation will form, it's unavoidable, so the moisture has to go somewhere. My method just provides a path to the pump(s), while sealing up the foam. Quote
Adios Posted November 3, 2018 Author Posted November 3, 2018 My project inches along and for any of you who were following, my apology for the weak performance of keeping up this page. It is a hobby, after all! The floatation foam is in, I've installed the ply flooring and designed an aft bulkhead to allow installation of a live well/fishbox in the transom. Photos to follow. I installed four backing plates made of 2 layers of 1/2 inch ply plus 18oz glass in the footprint of what will be the T-top. Since there will be no way to access the under surface of the deck later, the T-top will be fastened with SS bolts/nuts embedded into these footings (see Gougeon Brothers, 5th ed. p 136) Deck is 9mm ply, will be covered with 18 oz glass, then teak. 1 Quote
Adios Posted November 3, 2018 Author Posted November 3, 2018 The ply deck was painted on its undersurface with epoxy and glued to the stringers, foam and chine with thickened epoxy. It was fastened with raptor staples. If you haven't used them, they are fast and much cheaper than bronze screws. They are a little quirky, though. Bilge compartments painted and water tank installed. I wanted space in the transom for storage and a live well/fishbox so I modified the aft bulkhead that I had previously removed. 1 Quote
Adios Posted November 3, 2018 Author Posted November 3, 2018 test fit sheets of 2# closed cell foam unthickened epoxy more to come. Thanks John McFadden Mt Pleasant, SC Quote
smccormick Posted November 4, 2018 Posted November 4, 2018 Nice progress, I was wondering what had happened with this project. Quote
Adios Posted March 28, 2019 Author Posted March 28, 2019 I'm working along, slow but steady. After foaming in all spaces between the side stringers, a second layer of foam, #6 divinycell, 1/8" was laminated to cover the side stringers and was flush with the intermediate sheer. 10 oz glass was next applied. I need to touch up a few areas and the fair the inside before installing the carlin stringers. Quote
Adios Posted March 28, 2019 Author Posted March 28, 2019 I was about to the point of ordering an Armstrong bracket. Graham was kind enough to send me plans for a built on bracket, adapted from the 256. This has delayed me by a couple of months but I think will be worth it. No corrosion, stronger and better looking, too. It required cutting out slots in the transom to extend the keel and stringers. These are now installed, the bracket is planked and I'm now laminating the outboard bracket. Quote
hightechmarine Posted March 28, 2019 Posted March 28, 2019 You will absolutely love the bracket. I'm glad you added that. Armstrong brackets are great but it is not if they will corrode but how soon. Real nice work. Quote
Jay Lancaster Posted March 28, 2019 Posted March 28, 2019 I like that you filled between the strips/side stringers. Some folks leave them as-is or they sheet over them leaving the interior hollow. The foam core adds a ton of strength with minor weigh penalty. It's a good strategy. A good friend of mine builds his sportfishing boats that same way. Quote
Adios Posted March 30, 2019 Author Posted March 30, 2019 Thanks for the nice comments. I'm going to try to finish laminating the transom this weekend and then get on to the glassing. I send more photos as things progress. 1 Quote
Murray Posted June 2, 2019 Posted June 2, 2019 I have just joined - so enjoying your contribution Adios - huge effort you have put in - but what a result. Quote
Adios Posted January 31, 2023 Author Posted January 31, 2023 I have not posted in quite a long time. 8 years into this project, it finally nears completion. Work, family life, other responsibilities and a dose of project burnout have caused this to take much more time than I ever imagined. This past weekend was a big event. The boat came out of the garage for the last time. The console and seating box were installed, final fairing complete and she is off to the paint booth for a dose of awlgrip. I will post some picture along the way. A springtime launch looks like a realistic possibility. The engine bracket and swim platform completed. Quote
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