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Murray

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About Murray

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  • Supporting Member Since
    05/26/2021

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  1. Sanded myself to a standstill today, 80 grit, 120 - back to 80 grit. I love sanding - it brings out the black humour; "I haven't had so much fun since... " ...put in your own line. The wardrobe knobs on the long board have taught my hands a new resting position... And at the end of the day, the obvious becomes obvious; do the edges first before tackling any of the high bits on your planks - once the edges are (sort of) straight, the highs and lows are a little different... Still, I think I think I got the stern half of the starboard side half way there. plenty of time for the black
  2. I was wondering that very point Dave, I might be making good progress after all. On one hand that's great news. On the other hand....
  3. Us old Laser sailors used webbing with Velcro to attach the clew to the boom - the real Laser version is made from Dynema webbing rather than nylon, so stronger but more particularly, it slides better. Some use silicon spray as well. That might be worth a try for mast ties.... I was going to use tracks on my boat, but thinking about it, maybe there is something to be said for ties... That sure is one very pretty boat...! Love that cream colour - do you remember what it was?
  4. great build project - and a very pretty boat. Respect!
  5. Alaskan cedar really is a lovely timber... Easy to see in this shot that when I bevelled the stem, I went too far. Better to have put the bevel in as the planking started, rather than using the convenience of a workbench to work on, and putting the bevel in before attaching it to the boat. I know, obvious now, but it wasn't at the time.
  6. Temporarily right way up; I wanted to put the inwhales on to stiffen the sides before I spent too much time fairing the hull. I was using a single piece of 38mm x 19mm Yellow Cedar. It's beautiful timber to work with, but quite strong so bending it it to dry fit it was quite an effort. I was also somewhat resistant to the twist from coming to the stem to to the reverse twist at the transom. However they're in now and it makes the boat a lot more complete looking. i guess i'm quite critical of my work - I see every error, but when I look at other boats, it's easier to see that others have issue
  7. Sorry I haven't posted for a while, intermittent progress! However all the planking is on, can't say I'm entirely happy with my efforts, but newbie builder, so a whole lot of learning going on.
  8. Dave I think your plywood clamps with wide shims probably spread the load a little better than my screws and pads. I've changed my method a little, so the screws are now inserted into the edge of the new plank. I think having them bridged put too much pressure on the outside of the plank, past where it was supported by the bevelled edge, causing slight dimples which needed fixing. If you're getting withdrawal symptoms from see a new build - fell free to pop over and give me a hand...! Sorry about the pic - for some reason they keep getting rotated as I load them.
  9. Good things take time...! Nice looking boat you have made for yourself.
  10. ...to get nice 'clean' gains, I made a simple jig for my router to sit in. Works pretty well... I found a site 'Off Centre Harbor' which has many helpful videos. But a series I found really useful was on using Epoxy. lots of really useful tips from a master of the art.
  11. Good to see the planks fall pretty cleanly on the longitudinal bulkheads.... ...then on to the dark art of spiling. Took me a while to understand that you need to have the planks fall in the correct lie without too much tension anywhere. Any tension will see humps and hollows in the line of the lap... yes you can send and fill them to bring them back into line, but better to get the fit right in the first place. I found a photo of Blue Peter Lapwing build - seems there website has gone, but the spiling truss shown in one very low res pic set me off on the right path....
  12. I found the plywood blocks very useful for holding planks together - but don't tighten them with an electric screwdriver! Any mistakes here will show...
  13. Thanks for the advice Dave - much appreciated. I thought it useful to check the stem was plumb - since the saw horses were level, and the Longitudinal bulkheads were identical, likely the transom was level, so I set up a string line from the centre of the transom to the stem. A little parallax error in the photo, but it was on the string. Time for some planks...
  14. Dry fitting the frames and the longitudinal bulkheads showed the advantage in having the two sawhorses level, it all seemed to go together quite well. I figured that if I cut the frames out carefully, made sure the longitudinal bulkheads were close to identical, and made the aft frames square on their marks, that by the time I got up to the front bulkhead, the angle between that and the two longitudinal bulkheads would be pretty close to the same on both sides. 0.2 degrees difference seemed close enough that you'd never see it looking at the boat. I found there is a surprising am
  15. Next I started cutting out frames and longitudinal bulkheads, making the transom etc. It was about here that I missed the text which noted to bevel the aft edge of the transom seat shelf. When first dry fitting the transom to the Longitudinal bulkheads, the mistake was immediately obvious. You learn from your mistakes right? Well at least, we try not to make the same mistake a second time. So i cat the seat shelf off without too much trouble, cut a new one and tried it in place. I forgot to take a photo of it before I started to assemble the frames, but it's a good fit now.
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