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  • 3 weeks later...

Posted

Sweet! I finally had some time to try out the nimrod! No leaks at all, and paddled like a dream! From what Jeff said about the design I was expecting it to be a little unstable, but I found it to be surprisingly very stable once i got used to it in short order. It tracked extremely well, even in some moderate wind and waves that came up later in the day. Did not turn real easy but thats ok as it benefits the great tracking which I definitely prefer in such a boat. I really couldn't ask for better performance and give very high kudos to the designer, Jeff, I wish you could paddle it so you could see that I believe it would exceed even your expectations. BTW, these pics were right by the shore, and I did have my life jacket on once i went out paddling!

Posted

Thanks for the input on the boat. It is similar in hull shape to Shad and it is slow to turn too. I am thinking that is just normal for deeper V'ed hull shape. I have found that leaning and a quick paddle stroke really makes the difference. I really wanted to put more rocker in that hull but was afraid too.

Posted

Any more thoughts on the coated nylon ?

I dont really see any drawbacks to the coating on the inside, just seems to make it all the more waterproof, though it adds slightly more weight, It sure did stretch tight really well and showed no loosening of the fabric once wet. Initially I thought that the epoxy not turning out smooth and glossy and hardening too fast had something to do with it, but have found out that it was a temperature thing, the basement I built it in never gets over 50 degrees and i found out that at that temp the epoxy was hardening to fast, hence the rougher finish. If I build another one in there I would need to use a space heater to get the temp up.

Posted

Thanks for the input on the boat. It is similar in hull shape to Shad and it is slow to turn too. I am thinking that is just normal for deeper V'ed hull shape. I have found that leaning and a quick paddle stroke really makes the difference. I really wanted to put more rocker in that hull but was afraid too.

Yes, I also found that turning was better with a little leaning and a deeper but quick stroke. This has been my first time using a west greenland paddle, and I now see why they are liked so much, I would not go back to using a european style paddle again after using it.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I need some lofting help. Specifically on getting the bow/stern pieces to match up on the connection. My first boat was the Messabout from plans, which nicely fell together. I note that in Jeff's book "More FFB" the Messabout lofting numbers all match up. That does not seem to be the case with the revised Nimrod offsets. The 18" frame bottom/top center dimension is (1 15/16, 9 9/16) respectively. If I look at the stern piece I read the mating bottom/top coordinates as ( 0 4/16, 8 5/16) [FYI I am converting the two digit values back to approximate 16ths so the comparison is easier]. So these dont seem to match. And likewise for the Bow pieces. The 186" station values are (1 12/16 , 10 15/16) vs bow height of approx (0 4/16 , 10 8/16). If I just consider the absolute heights: 18" piece is 7 10/16 and the matching piece is 8 1/16. The 186" station piece is 9 3/16 whereas the matching piece is 10 4/16.

 

I then referenced my copy of Jeff's "Fuselage Frame Boats" book and the Poco Barta design. The bow 15'16" station has bottom/top coordinates of (1 13/16, 11 2/16) which is an identical match with the bow piece coordinates. I am assuming here the match is expected. The stern top height matches when I add the 1/2" thick stern top piece. The bottom dimension agrees to within about 1/8", I believe.

 

Can someone identify my error? FYI some of the other kayaks in Jeff's two books also cause the same confusion for me.

 

thanks

 

M

Posted

This is how I plotted out the bow and stern pieces for my Nimrod (click on pictures to enlarge them):

 

First marked out the points from the offsets:

post-3239-0-93002000-1413778730_thumb.jpg

 

Connect the points:

post-3239-0-06765200-1413778743_thumb.jpg

 

Add the line equal to the center line height of the end frame:

post-3239-0-49617500-1413778758_thumb.jpg

 

Connect the end points:

post-3239-0-57770600-1413778770_thumb.jpg

 

Hopefully this helps and somebody else will chime in and let us know if this is correct. I've already cut all my frames and bow/stern, fitted them together, and everything looks good so I'm assuming I was on the right track.

 

Al

 

 

Posted

MKS, thank you for asking on the forum! People email me all the time asking for  help on the free plans and I hate to have to tell people this but I don't offer support on free plans. But it clearly states (I thought) that I don't offer support.  So the  Forum is the place to ask questions and again, I appreciate you asking here.

 

I will say not to expect the coordinates 'to mate up' as you were. What matters is the finished size. The frames will match up because of the way it is developed off the baseline. I am not going to give away all my secrets but the bow and stern  are developed using a totally different method and the coordinates are not coming off the base line.  Some of the older ones probably were, but the way I am currently doing it will not match up.

 

If you not sure you can always make one of cardboard and test it before cutting the plywood.

Posted

I haven't started a build, but I did plot out the plans.  When plotting the bow and stern, I did it from a separate origin, and then once complete and drawn (I turned each piece into a 'block' in autocad), I could then move the parts into place just as if they were the real thing. seen in this screen shot, in place (with some simple modification to accommodate the keel strip and deck beams). The stern in this screen shot is not complete, but you get the idea.  I found that all the dimensions lined up without problem.

 

Screen%2BShot%2B2014-10-22%2Bat%2B2.40.2

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks all for the help. "oldpropfan" diagram is what I did not do. I just assumed a constant height. Fortunately the lightening holes were not so large and I was able to resmooth the curve. And that CAD diagram very nice! Next job: the coaming.

M

  • 6 months later...
Posted

I haven't started a build, but I did plot out the plans.  When plotting the bow and stern, I did it from a separate origin, and then once complete and drawn (I turned each piece into a 'block' in autocad), I could then move the parts into place just as if they were the real thing. seen in this screen shot, in place (with some simple modification to accommodate the keel strip and deck beams). The stern in this screen shot is not complete, but you get the idea.  I found that all the dimensions lined up without problem.

 

Screen%2BShot%2B2014-10-22%2Bat%2B2.40.2

 

Hi there sugarbaker and thread. I have begun lofting the nimrod in sketchup and have run into the same problem. The bow and the stern pieces hang off of the fore and aft stations by 1 5/64" and 13/32 respectively. When I lined up the bow I thought it might be to accomodate the keel and deck stringers but then I saw that the stern is off by a different amount. What am I doing wrong?

 

I lofted the bow and keel the same way I did the frames. However the finished height off of the "X" is way too low to use as an elevation off of the strongback, so I just lined up the bow/stern pieces to the stations along the deck-line. No matter what though, the bow and stern are just too big. Did I loft wrong? I must be missing something...

 

I have screenshots but I can't figure out how to post photos. Thanks in advance for any help I can get, I can't wait to get started on the cutting. 

Posted

Hello Dorme, I see your question... A proper response will come, but I want to do the work myself in sketch up to see if I can replicate the problem. It's been long enough that I don't recall having an issue/problem with the coordinates, but I did use Autocad, which operates differently than sketch up. Stay tuned.

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