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Posted

So somehow I convinced SWMBO that a 24 x 36 pole building isn't that much different from the small shed she'd agreed to.

 

These pics show the cool process I used of building much of the roof on the ground, and then cranking it up into place using.. what else?  Boat trailer winches!

 

 

 

 

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  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Posted

Cool!  In three weeks we're moving into our new house which already has a 6x9 meter shed, but the ceiling is too low to do much in it.  I'm rolling ideas over in my head about how to fix it.  Since it's a fairly lightweight steel structure I've been thinking about just raising the whole building up a meter and putting a brick foundation under the walls.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Scott:

 

How is the shed coming and what are you using for a floor?

 

I now have a local shed to use, but it is an unused horse stable, which has a dirt floor that was covered with waste rock (fines from a limestone gravel crush operation). Waste rock, when packed down wet, will setup almost like concrete, but over time, as it dries out, starts to turn into dust. That is where it is now, plus an inch or so of actual dirt/dust. It is also not entire level. Since it is a horse stable, we don't want to pour concrete. Thinking of leveling out what is there, then putting an inch or so of 1 inch crushed gravel on top. Either use that as is, or top that with a "floor" of treated plywood around the strongback to walk on. All of those can be taken up when the project is finished and returned to a horse barn if a person wanted to.

 

Any other good ideas on temp floor? Concrete would be best so a person could sweep up wood shavings, saw dust, epoxy dust, etc, but that is not an option here.

Posted

My current boatshed floor is made of interlocking concrete pavers bedded on sand. Quite easy to keep clean and is reasonably level. I figured I could pull out any of the blocks if ever I need to drive anchoring stakes into the ground. 

 

The only setback is groundwater seepage when we get prolonged rains (it is lower than part of the yard) so I have to keep all the wood off the floor. 

Posted

The only setback is groundwater seepage when we get prolonged rains (it is lower than part of the yard) so I have to keep all the wood off the floor. 

That's a good practice anyway, concrete can sweat and transfers moisture even when it looks dry.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Hey y'all.  I'm just about to get back to working on this thing.  I havent' decided on the floor yet, but it'll probably be crushed gravel because I'm reluctant to pay for all that concrete. 

 

 

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Posted

And I gotta tell you, I ain't gonna miss going up on that steel 8/12 pitch roof.  The ridge cap is done, and I don't see any reason to get back up there.

Hah- that ain't steep-try working on my house!! :P

 

Looking good Scott

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Posted

Opportunity in the form of an extra building on a property my daughter bought presented itself. Didn't have to build the barn, but did agree to pouring a concrete floor in exchange for the use of it while building the boat. I get a place to build and they get a floor. Since I'll be bringing in some power floor tools to work in the barn, I wanted concrete. Also, Tony (of P22 fame) sold me on concrete after he told me how many times he had to re-level his boat as he was building it.

 

I expect to start picking up some speed on my build and soon.

Posted

Charlie, your house has no walls.  Maybe they extend below ground?

 

Howard, I hadn't even thought about the issues with boat settling and re-leveling.  I'll have to plan something for that.

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