SBknox Posted November 26, 2011 Posted November 26, 2011 My son saw me building my brothers coaming and decided he would like to have a boat also. Looking around I saw the FreeB12 and thought it would be just the right size for a 12 year old to start in. The first coaming I made cleaned up at 1 3/16" high due to my "first time" problems. It should work fine on a smaller boat. I've started another for my brother that will clean up at the full 1 1/2" height. The coamings are of 5 layers of 3/32" ash and a 5 layer lip on the top. I was amazed at how strong the finished product is. I did a much better job on the second coaming, having had some practice. I drew the plans from the coordinates on my cadd program and had them plotted at a friends architectural office. Glued them on the ply and started cutting. I tried sanding the paper off and boy what a mess. The heat gun will peal the paper right up and with a scrubbing with mineral spirits, the glue residue came right off. Much easier to sand. The strong back is built and ready. I used 2 2x6x16 screwed together in a "T" and built sawhorse style legs for support. The shelf is the piece of ash for the coamings. Multitasking material! The brackets are leveled and aligned to a string. Tomorrow I plan to sand the frames and cut out the stringers. Hopefully, Sunday afternoon I can start mounting to the strongback. Jordan is a big UT fan and decided his boat must be orange. So off to Lowe's we go for Rustoleum. You would think in Knoxville orange would be a staple color. Nope! But if you take two quarts of Safety Yellow and slowly add Safety Red, presto, UT Orange! Needless to say, It feels great to see your boys eyes light up. I can't decide what boat to build for myself. I like the look of Jeff's Shad. Maybe it will be ready by the time Jordan's and Scott's are finished. If anyone is on the fence about starting one of Jeff's boats, I say go for it. I haven't enjoyed a project this much in a long time. Quote
woodman Posted November 26, 2011 Posted November 26, 2011 Nice shop and I like the shelf under the strong back...Have fun..because it really is... Steve Crawford Quote
Kudzu Posted November 26, 2011 Posted November 26, 2011 Well personally I think a Crimson boat and a script A would look better but each to his own. I will be anxiously following this one. And don't worry about coaming heights. As long as you can sew it on and there is enough lip for the skirt to to fit under the lip, that is all that matters. I actually make mine lower. If you ever decide to try rolling or some other acrobatics the lower coaming is a good thing. Quote
SBknox Posted November 26, 2011 Author Posted November 26, 2011 A few more pictures now that I know how to reduce file size. Quote
Hirilonde Posted November 26, 2011 Posted November 26, 2011 You need more clamps I see you clamped the top and bottom of each strip of maple as you clamped around the form. I found by using a block I could get even pressure by just clamping in the middle. Works well for those with less clamps. Looking good. Quote
P Doug (WA) Posted November 26, 2011 Posted November 26, 2011 Anxious to watch this build. Thanks for sharing. Quote
SBknox Posted November 27, 2011 Author Posted November 27, 2011 Bottom stringer planed to size, routed and sanded. Located all the "0" points on the brackets along with the bow and stern rise. Frames routed, sanded and placed on stringer with temp clamps. Bottom stringer cut to length for both bow and stern frame. Tomorrow I'll finish the other stringers and get the scarf jig out. I do have to study on how to keep the stern and bow frame straight on the "X" axis to keep everything plumb. So far, so good. 1 Quote
woodman Posted November 27, 2011 Posted November 27, 2011 I would make a bracket that clamps to the strong back and stern and bow pcs. to keep them square, so it is out of the way of where the stringers touch. Quote
Kudzu Posted November 27, 2011 Posted November 27, 2011 Tomorrow I'll finish the other stringers and get the scarf jig out. I do have to study on how to keep the stern and bow frame straight on the "X" axis to keep everything plumb. So far, so good. Simplest way is to do them them last. Lash the other joints of at least most of them.That way the frame is sturdy and not moving around. Leave your stringers a little long. Then work on the ends, suare them up as you go. Quote
SBknox Posted December 5, 2011 Author Posted December 5, 2011 Several pic's to show the progress. Everything lashed except the floor boards, I wanted to get the linseed oil on before installing. After reading the posts of the other projects, I rounded the corners and edges of the floor boards. I've got good clearance between the bottom edge and where the skin will be. I took your advice Jeff, and saved the bow and stern for last. I tied the top and bottom stringers on good and tight and it really wasn't any problem strapping the gunwales and chines into place for cutting. I was pleased with the fit and look of both ends. I'll lash in the flooring tomorrow night. I need to order the foot pegs and some 8oz poly to keep moving forward. I'll weigh the completed frame once the floor is in and post the findings. The only tough part was getting the gunwales held in place for the lashing. There is quite a bend on 28"x144" boat! 1 Quote
P Doug (WA) Posted December 5, 2011 Posted December 5, 2011 It is looking good. I can't wait to read how this one handles. Quote
Hirilonde Posted December 5, 2011 Posted December 5, 2011 Yeah, it does look good. After I finish my Curlew my wife wants to try it out then decide if she wants one or something smaller. So seeing your build and hopefully hearing soon what you have to say about it will help with her decision. Please keep us updated. Quote
jerryg Posted December 5, 2011 Posted December 5, 2011 Looks real nice. Just like a real kayak. Can't wait to see the finished product. Quote
SBknox Posted December 6, 2011 Author Posted December 6, 2011 Floorboards are in and boy do my hands hurt! What happened to my GI Joe Kung Fu Grip! (In with the reading glasses, out with the grip!) With the coaming it's a total of 18 lbs even. Quote
woodman Posted December 6, 2011 Posted December 6, 2011 Lashing is fun... isn't it.... Time to sit back and enjoy enjoy the framing... after it is skinned it is no more... Quote
SBknox Posted December 8, 2011 Author Posted December 8, 2011 I was tinkering with an idea for shop-made foot rests. Feel free to criticize if this is a stupid idea. I glued 5 of the ash coaming strips together using the gunwale as a form. The foot peg has a hole cut in it slightly larger than the "rail" so it will not only slide easily, but will also cam lock onto the rail when you push on it. The string is tied to the back side of the peg and is used to pull the peg back toward the body. Just slide it to where you're comfortable, pull the rope snug and tie it off. So far the prototype seems very easy to move to different positions. I cut the hole out with the bandsaw so there is a slit on the backside. A final version would be mortised out to eliminate the weakening cut from a bandsaw. Also i think I would add more wood on the backside the cutout. It's about a 1/2" wide now, 3/4" would make it lots stronger, and there's plenty of clearance room on the backside of the rail. The end of the rail toward the cockpit could be made just a little longer and a slot cut in it to allow the 1/8" pull cord to be wedged into, then push a simple overhand knot up to the rail. Plausible or stupid? Quote
Hirilonde Posted December 8, 2011 Posted December 8, 2011 That might work. What is the foot peg made from? Quote
SBknox Posted December 8, 2011 Author Posted December 8, 2011 scrap 1/2" ply left over from the frames. I thought I might even make a small aluminum plate to go over the hole just to add a little reinforcement. Quote
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