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Posted

I think you might find the plywood gets crushed and enlarges the hole with use. Have any scraps of hardwood that would work? Or reinforce around the hole on both sides with some glued on hardwood scrap? Getting to the forward end of the bar to remove this thing after it is skinned will be amusing to say the least. I would hate to see it fail as it is a clever idea.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

It works! I up'ed the plywood to 3/4" and tied everything in place. I then tried to break it, thinking it would be better to know now at what point it would fail. I couldn't break it using far more pressure than you would ever apply to the peg. The adjustment works like a charm, easily sliding into place by either pulling the cord toward you or loosening it and pushing the peg away with your toe down the rail. When in position, push the cord lock into place. I did notice that the cord lock would creep a little, so an overhand knot up against it stopped the movement.

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Posted

Very clever. Looks good. Do you need to be concerned with being able to move it when things are moist and wood maybe be swollen some? Coarse it is not like you adjust them all the time. I'm really anxious to read about this kayak. Please keep the posts coming.

Posted

I don't think the swelling will be a problem. (time will tell!) Everything is oiled well and the hole is more oversized than the photo shows. It slides easily, so there's still room for swelling should it be a problem. Like you said, they don't get moved much, anyway.

All the years I was in to whitewater kayaking, I don't remember ever resetting the distance of the footpegs. I did check to see if I could cut the lashing loose closest to the coaming and flex it enough to allow me to remove an existing footpeg and slide another in place

should there be a problem. Not as easy to lash back with the skin on, but do-able.

I hope to start the skin this evening. I'll post the progress.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Finished!! Skinning this short fat thing was a challenge! I managed to iron out everything nice and smooth except a few places around the coaming. There was just to much fabric and no where for it to go. The rustoleum paint worked like a charm. I thinned the first coat the recommended 15% and worked it in with a 2" paint brush. The remaining coats were put on with a 4" foam roller. Very smooth finish. Just a note, if you paint the bottom first, be sure to wipe the underside edge constantly to avoid any runs. I had a few that I had to trim off with a razor blade. Had I kept a rag in my pocket and wiped the gunwale edge clean as I moved along, wouldn't have had any drips. The orange was put on full strength, no thinning. Next time, I think I'll thin the top coat also. I just goes on so much smoother. I used the green FrogTape for the color change line and it worked well. The 3/16" bungee was no problem using Jeff's methods. All that is left is a seat bottom and a backband. I'll put it in the lake this Saturday and post how it handles. I'll have to make a paddle or by a cheap one before then, all we have are canoe paddles! I'm looking forward to building one for myself next.

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Posted

That looks great, nice work! Now to show this post and pictures to my wife and finish talking her into having me build her one. This might just be the final tool I need to convince her ;)

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