Brazilian Spindrift 10N

[bassoan]

Hi all,

I  want to share with you the experience of building my first boat. From the plan order to launch !

Well, the plan order for the Spindrift 10N was placed today in the morning. I'll keep you posted.

Best regards from Sao Paulo - Brazil.

[davidpm]

Welcome aboad. Be sure to post pictures we all like pictures.

[Hirilonde]

Ahoy bassoan, and welcome.

[ricardo]

bassoan,

Welcome aboard!

I had built a Core Sound 17 and a couple of Diva

[bassoan]

Hey guys, thank you for the warm reception ! First I'd like to apologize for my english mistakes. It seems I'll never master this language!

It

[Greg Luckett]

bassoan,

Do not worry about the language mistakes as we understand the problems you face.  I might ask for clarification if I am not sure I understand what you are trying to communicate.  I had a good friend many years ago whose native language was Portugese, and he was from Portugal.  When we first met he could understand English but had difficulty speaking it until he had a chance to practice it.

I am building a Spindrift 12 sloop version. 

Please, if you can, post pictures of your boat building.

Welcome to our gang!

[bassoan]

Hey Greg, thank you for your words! How's your 12ft going ? Does she have a name ?

Good news ! The plans have just arrived ! Far earlier than I thought it would. Hull number is 707. It seems she will fly like an airplane ! 

Next steps: to read everything (LOTS of information!!!) and build a little cardboard model to get used to plans.

I'll post some pictures as soon as possible, but I don't think a cardboard model will make success here. Anyway, it is part of the process.

Andre

[Ken_Potts]

  Hi Bassoan,

  Pictures of cardboard models are as welcome as pictures of plywood boats.  Other people have posted pictures of models and I welcome the sight of them.

  Read those plans carefully and remember that the model might well be more difficult thatn the real boat.

  Enjoy.

[bassoan]

Hi Ken,

Well, let me clarify first that I don't intend to build a complete model. Just basic hull and maybe other parts where I have doubts.

I started this afternoon and as you can see below, I'm having a lot of fun here.

My first Stitch and Glue model !  ;D

[ricardo]

Go Andr

[brucee]

Hey Andre,

Great pics.  Thanks for sharing.  I did a cardboard model as well, mainly for fun.  I taped it together so it didn't look as clean as yours but was good enough to explain the process to others.

Progress is slow on my Spindrift 10.  I am just starting to wire the halves together. Ricardo, are you suggesting plastic cable ties work better than wire?  What size holes in the plywood did you drill for the ties?

Bruce

[Garry]

Bruce,

Pros and cons for wire vs. cable ties has been discussed in depth here before (you might be able to search for it). In my mind, wire is stronger but requires thicker plywood and more distance from the edge to prevent pulling through. Cable ties are gentler on thin plywood and won't pull through as easily but require larger holes and may not have the strength needed in some areas (but you can easily add more holes or even use larger ties or wire where needed). The cut ends of wire can cause some nasty cuts so you want to bend the ends back and wear gloves.

Garry

[ricardo]

Garry is right. Wire can tear the delicate ply edges in stress areas. The slightly big holes for the ties will be covered up anyway by the epoxy fillet and tape.

[Greg Luckett]

I had some scrap 12 gauge copper wire which worked great in the prow region of my Spindrift 12.  I also used a 16 gauge wire for most of the rest of the boat, and then ran short of wire.  I built 3 other boats using the plastic wire ties, so finished with them.  I like the metal wire much better as it is fairly easy to remove, but in the prow area I could not get all the copper out without it breaking off.  The plastic ties would not have worked there in any case.

[Charlie Jones]

I also prefer the wire. I buy rolls from ACE hardware ( where else? ).

The reasons?

The wire is cheap, cheap, cheap.

I can make up 150 3 inch wires in five minutes.

Using a battery and some jumper cables, I can "POP" the wire which turns it red almost instantly melting the epoxy around the wire, then it just slides out.

I'll be removing wires from a pair of 16 foot amas tomorrow in fact.

[Charlie Jones]

On the use of a battery to "pop" the wires, heat them up and pull them.

Laura and I , working together, just removed the wires from a pair of 16 foot hulls, chines and keels, in about 45 minutes total time. I took a set of jumper cables, wrapped a bare wire in one end of each so the end stuck out about an inch. Using that bare wire to touch each end of the tie wire.

But I must warn you - this is not a technique for something to be finished bright. Unless you are extremely careful it leaves small black marks at each place a wire exits the wood. For painted surfaces, it's fine- for brightwork, I'd use another method. I have heated the wires with a soldering gun- much slower but doesn't leave the black marks unless you get really careless.

[ricardo]

I

[Charlie Jones]

If you use copper wires, you can do that. If you use cable ties you can also do that. But if using galvanized or plain iron wire, you can't because it'll eventually rust. Also, unless you get the ends WELL under the surface, you'll destroy a plane iron rounding the edges- chines, keel, etc.

I personally don't like cable ties because you cannot get as much tension on them as you can with a twisted wire.

[bassoan]

For the records (just in case someone check this thread in the future).

I wasn

[ricardo]

This a dinning room and a Firebug, which is a boat, and wooden, is been buit in it. Don