davidpm

Thanks that what I thought

I'm concerened about setting the mast properly and a spindrift 10n. Is it supposed to be completely vertical when the boat is on its designed waterline? One of the plan pages makes it look like it might be pitched forward a little which must be my misinterpration of the plans because I've seen masts with a little aft rake but never a forward rake. Can I assume plumb?

I like the idea of the washers.

Thank you all Since my wood looks pretty good but is not furniture quality and the boat will be indoors all but a few days a year I'll go with the 205.

I'm surprised this has not started a fire storm. In past threads folks were very insistant that all surfaces had to be epoxy protected. Not sure how much differece the color will be between 205 and 207 though as I've never used 207.

Instead of routing out the top layer of plywood it may be possible to re-bend the fork. Has anyone tried that?

[quote author=Hirilond

thanks all. My plans say: "the standard pintle position is 10" apart, but the top pintle" Like there was some warning comming but then nothing. Any idea what the rest of the sentance is.

[quote author=Hirilond

I have some mahogany trim on a Spindrift I would like to finish varnish. Most folks recommend coating with one coat of epoxy before varnishing. I usually use west 205 hardener for gluing applications. I notice that they sell the 207 hardener which is specifically for clear applications. Do you think it is worth the trouble and expense to get some 207?

I'm Baaak. Started last winter but got derailed by sailing season and now I'm doing some of the final, I hope steps. My plans for the 10N dated 3/3/05. On the grid for the rudder say 2" squares. In the text it says "Draw out 3" Square Grid on plywood. I'm pretty sure we are talking a less than 10" wide rudder right? Squares are 2". Just checking. I bought my Gudgeons & Pintles from Graham last year and they have a 1 1/8" fork which is perfect for the top one but for the bottom one with the doubler cheek block I figure I just have to route it in the first layer of ply. Again just checking as I sometimes make things harder than necessary. I'm planning on gluing up a mahogany rudder about 5/8" thick. Sound about right. Other than a couple of coats of epoxy on the inside of the 1/4" ply cheeks before final gluing what kind of finish it attempted for the inside of the rudder? The plans call for the filler pieces being 1/16" thicker than the rudder blade. Does that sound right for wood rudder blade coated in epoxy and varnished about 10 coats on both sides? I wish i had a finished piece I could cut off a scrap and strip and compare finished to unfinished thickness. As usual thanks for all your experience and comments.

I didn't think of the dam and 1/2" idea. So now I've got to figure the best way to finish? Probably should have thought it through a little more.

What is the notched trowel method? You have to coat with one coat of epoxy to seal after sanding before fairing right?

I got a little carried away on a spindrift 10N and laminated 1/8" magahony on the transom which I intend to finish with varnish and regret shortly after. So the question is what is the best way to do the joint between the transom and the rest of the boat? I plan on using that water based stuff Ray likes as I'm doing this in my basement and my wife is a canary when it comes to fumes. I could just go for a knife edge or wrap the paint on top of my beautiful varnish an inch all around. What to do?

Thanks for all tips and sympathy. Kind of like having the flue. If you never had it you could never appreciate what a pain it can be. I got rid of the drips tonite. Don't think I'll mention how as I donn't want my username suspended but now I'm on too new disasters.