Spindrift 10

[markja]

Hi

I have the plans and plywood for building a Spindrift 10. I am also building a model first to see how it all fits together.

I could try and post a picture of the model if I can figure out how...

When is the time to remove the center temporary frame? What prevents the sides from collapsing when the frame is removed?

Thanks.

Mark

[John Burritt]

Mark-

You need to epoxy (thickened) fillet and glass tape the chines and center seam before removing the center frame.  Also put the gunwales on.  They will help hold the shape of the shear.  I assume the transom is already in at this point.  Good luck.

[markja]

[Garry]

I would probably make up some temporary spreaders before you remove the bulkhead so you can hold the shape while you build in the seats.

[Greg Luckett]

What??  I was supposed to remove that temporary center frame??

Sometimes, Ray, I cannot tell when you are joking....must be that Maine Yankee thing? ;D

[markja]

I have made it to assembling the butterfly stage. I would recommend making a model if you have any doubts about what you are doing when building a first boat. It's pretty cheap plus you get to build not one, but two boats which is twice as much fun, right? 

When it comes time to coat the hull with clear epoxy has anyone used Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES) rather that straight epoxy resin? I have used the CPES  stuff to paint wood windows with great results. I actually put a coat of CPES on and before it is fully cured add a coat of water based primer. It really does seem to mix with the epoxy and "glue itself to the wood". When painted with a good quality--but nothing special topcoat, the windows I painted ten years ago are still looking good.

One difference I can see would be that the CPES is so thin there would be no build like with regular resin. Can't see if that would be better or worse... It sands really easy.

Another question? Instead of offset, I am thinking of installing the daggerboard trunk right on the bottom centerline and then widening the outer keel only where the trunk occurs. (I am a symmetrical kind of person) Other than maybe a little more work, is there any disadvantage?

Am using RAKA's resin. So far so good, the fast hardener sets up great in my 55 degree garage.

MARK

[Garry]

I think you want the epoxy to do more than just seal the wood, you want to build up a protective layer to make it waterproof.

I installed the c'board on center and it was more work. It is less protected without the center wood strip running beside the centerboard opening. I would recommend staying with the design.

I also used Raka resin when I built my Spindrift inside the house during the winter. Almost no odor, my roommates could never tell whem I had used it. The type I used had no blush so I didn't have to wash it off in the house.

I'm using Graham's resin now which is less costly and seems similar except that it DOES have a blush which I keep forgetting to wash off. No major flubs yet though.

[Greg Luckett]

Garry, what were you using before that didn't have a blush?  I use mostly West Systems, and tinkered with System 3, and plan to begin buying from Graham once my stock nears depletion.  My Spindrift should use it up soon.

Thanks,

[Charlie Jones]

Greg- under the right set of circumstances, they'll ALL blush. The blush is a function of un reacted amines coming to the surface. I make it a practice to treat them ALL as if there might be blush. All it takes is a simple wash down with plain water to get rid of it if it's there, so I just do that, matter of course. What's it take? 10 minutes on a 20 foot hull? 5 minutes on a kayak?

Of course if you are working "hot" so the epoxy hasn't had a chance to cure, then there's no problem with any of it.

[Greg Luckett]

Charlie, that is what I thought, and what I have seen so far, which is why Garry's comment surprised me.  I know there are some low blush claims by some epoxy suppliers, but I have not seen any without blush after sitting a few days, or even a day.  I wipe the hardened epoxy with a damp rag before doing any sanding as that keeps the wax from trashing the sand paper too quickly.

I often wonder as I am freezing my butt off here what it would be like to actually be warm when working.  I have fleeting memories of needing sweat bands and swatting flies & mosquitos and cursing the heat....but only fleeting. :  On the good side, rarely do bugs get into my uncured fiberglass, even if it takes a day to cure at 40F.

[Garry]

I certainly don't question Charlie's experience. I used Raka' 350 Non-Blushing epoxy with great results, never washed it down once. Go to the link and scroll down about 1/4 of the way for more information:http://raka.com/EpoxyPricing.html

[Greg Luckett]

I certainly don't question Charlie's experience. I used Raka' 350 Non-Blushing epoxy with great results, never washed it down once. Go to the link and scroll down about 1/4 of the way for more information:http://raka.com/EpoxyPricing.html

Thanks Garry.   I have never used the Raka and am happy to take your word for it.

Incidently, those interior pics of Rosebud are impressive too.

[Charlie Jones]

I've also used the RAKA and have not had any problems. BUT- in the off chance that it MIGHT blush, I wipe down anyway. Just don't want to risk it.

Best way though is still to schedule your work so you can go uninterrupted from base coat through fill coats. Makes for some long days once in a while but saves problems overall. Cause I try not to sand at all til after the final fill coat is rolled on- I don't like sanding that much to do it more than required ;D

[markja]

I have finished epoxy filleting and applying the fiberglass tape to the inside of the Spindrift. I just flipped it over to work on the outside and discovered a spot where the outer plywood veneer is bubbled. It isn't very large, about 3/4" x 12" across the face grain. back nerar the transom. I have slit it carefully with razor knife and plan to force some epoxy to glue it back down. Since it is so close to the transom maybe a layer of fiberglass cloth to cover the slice in the veneer?

How common does this occur? I am using the good stuff--BS1088 Okume.

By the way, I read somewhere here that the stitching wires can be removed by heating them with a torch and then pulling them out. It worked great for me. I let the wire cool for a couple minutes first and it pulled right out.

I can't seem to insert a picture to show what I am describing.

Also, any idea how much paint to purchase for a Spindrift 10? I am thinking of a light color interior and dark color exterior with varnished gunwales only.

Thanks again.

MARK

[Steve Day]

That delamination of the Okume plywood is a new one on me. I have never encountered that. I would say you have the right idea, but if it is that large an area, I might think about peeling it back and building up the area with epoxy & fiberglass cloth. In any case, it would not hurt to have a layer of fiberglass cloth and/or tape over that area.

As far as paint goes, I used less than a quart of primer and a quart of color coat to cover both the inside and outside of the boat (Spindrift 10N). I finished the seats and the gunwhales in varnish.

Maybe the "pros" have another opinion.

Steve

[Greg Luckett]

I've also used the RAKA and have not had any problems. BUT- in the off chance that it MIGHT blush, I wipe down anyway. Just don't want to risk it.

Best way though is still to schedule your work so you can go uninterrupted from base coat through fill coats. Makes for some long days once in a while but saves problems overall. Cause I try not to sand at all til after the final fill coat is rolled on- I don't like sanding that much to do it more than required ;D

Charlie, I am SHOCKED!  You do not like sanding??

Just kidding.  I like your suggestion of working to minimize it.  I do not get much chance here due to the normally low temperatures for the epoxy to reach a point where I can continue without an overnighter..... :

[markja]

I have filleted and taped the inside. Does it matter whether I do the interior framing, seats, etc. next or should I flip the hull over and tape the outside before installing the interior stuff? The temporary center frame is still in place.

The hull seems pretty strong already.

MARK

[Greg Luckett]

Good question, Mark.  I would probably flip it and finish the outside seams, then flip it back over to do the inside.  That is my plan anyway, the way I have built other small boats.  Incidently, I usually apply tape over the outside of the joints on the chines before doing the interior joints.  This keeps epoxy/filleting from extruding through the seams and therefore less sanding and prep work when doing the exterior joints.

[markja]

Thanks Greg,

I taped the outside seams as you suggested They were filled and sanded already anyway.

I have learned about using a sharp scraper to clean up the epoxy drip and runs, too. Much quicker than sanding especially if the resin hasn't fully cured.

[markja]

The plans indicate driving screws through the hull to hold the keel and mast step in place along with epoxy. As the hull is epoxied and taped by now, should I put at least a dab of epoxy over each screw head to seal it up? Otherwise, what keeps moisture from seeping around a screw like that?

It seems the keel would certainly be permanent by then.

MARK