New project, a few questions

[capt jake]

I got all of the upper bolts out and replaced today (upper meaning the deck). I poked epoxy in the joints as best I could. Trying not to tear the 'whole' thing apart! The remaining bolts came out pretty well, but I did have to repair the forward frame as it was falling apart at the connector. Good thing it isn't visible.

I have to let that stem dry out some more as it appears to still be wet when I was sanding it in preparation for the biax and ply patch, bummer. There was poly resin poured along side of the stem that I was able to mostly remove. I was thinking of doing the same thing with epoxy.

[capt jake]

Joel, I found some of the 'tube' style extractor today at McLendons in Sumner. $14/ea roughly. They are not the split shaft as described on McFeely's site.

[capt jake]

Well, those removing tubes were a bust. Literally busted both of them. Tried going easy and slow as the directions state, but when they catch, they shatter.

Good news is, I got 'one' screw out. Only about a dozen more to go......

[capt jake]

The boat is coming along although a bit slower that I was hoping on. Limited time and all.

Although there is very limited rot (only two small areas about 3" square) I have noted some potential rot at the keel timber. I sanded it down today in hopes of letting it dry a bit more (simular to the stem, same wood for that matter) and then flowing some epoxy down into it.

There are a few gaps at the top inside of the chine logs that were filled in some spots with silicone. I have been digging that stuff out and what a pain. I am going to flow epoxy in these as well.

Once I have it all tighten up from the top I plan on rolling it over to attack the outside of the hull. Hull sides are 1/4" with butt blocks and they are not going to be fair. There are noticable bumps at the blocks and at the attachment point along the stringer. Maybe I wil have to find a flat paint.

[capt jake]

New question. One that is hard to put into words.

How much should a boat of this construction wrack or twist? I have the transom firmly supported (tied) to a sawhorse as I am taking it off of the trailer. it is tied off at two separate points (motorwell drain holes). I have the bow supported at a single point of blocking.

If I grab the side of the bow and give it a shake; the boat 'twists' from side to side. Was there that much movement in a boat of this type? All of the plywood seems securely fastened, though I am going to re-fasten it. The glue bonds seem to be intact at the stringers.

???

[lewisboats]

Clarifying question: is the front deck and all the upper works still off?

Steve

[Barry Pyeatt]

When it was first assembled, it was most likely a lot stiffer than it is now. I don't see any diagonal bracing anywhere to preven that from happening. Once the deck goes back on it will be pretty rigid again. It is kinda like most anyother plywood boat, it needs all the pieces inplace to make a stiff and rigid assembly.

As far as being certain it is "square", place two long sighting sticks horizontally, one side to side near the transom on the side rails, the other on the side rails near the forward bulkhead. When you sight from either the front or the back they should line up evenly. If one is off then you know it is racked. Then you can shim, brace, or otherwise do what is needed to bring it back to "straight".

[capt jake]

I have the side decks re-bolted and epoxied in place. The fore deck is not replaced yet, but I can't see that providing much in the way of anti-wracking.

Those chine bolts are next on my list, but I can't detect any movement there. I am not really sure were the movement is coming from.

I am hoping that I don't have to re-sheath it with new plywood! The ply is in pretty good shape and would hate to have to go to that extent.

I was not planning on putting on the deck until after I roll it over an finish the bottom. With this movement I am not sure about rolling it. :?:

[capt jake]

Some status pics.

[capt jake]

I am in a quandry. The bulkhead that is installed on the forward frame is not original. Originally it was just a cross brace from tying the frame together at the knee with a simple shelf on it. The shelf would have been open.

I like the concept of the bulkhead and door, but it is limiting to get in there and do the final installation(s).

I guess I am just asking for opinions on this. I tend to lean more towards keeping the bulkhead but relpacing it with a unit that is not such a lame installation.

Thoughts?

[capt jake]

Well, I have the bow patched, the interior stripped. All bolts replaced, splashwell and set back re-installed, Epoxy fillets flowed into the cracks and seams from the interior (while right side up), new bulkhead (w/ door) installed. Frame gussets replaced and/or repaired where needed.

With Mike R's help today we got 6 boats stands built and the boat flipped over. Flipping it over was a bit more than I anticipated; especially with only two of us.

After Mike left I spent a couple of hours stripping the bottom of the hull. I have one side totally stripped.

Darned camera is dead, otherwise I would post a few pictures.

Need to finish stripping the other side tomorrow. Crawl underneath and clean up the shear clamp seam, flow in epoxy and re-fasten. DIg out all of those rotten nails! ARRGG and re-fasten; then I will be ready for glass and paint. Conemplating Dynel in this application.

Thanks for all of your help Mike!

[capt jake]

Here they are. Didn't get any before the flip as my son had the camera. :roll:

[capt jake]

I guess you are limited to the number.

[Hirilonde]

You've got quite the project going Jake. I am looking forward to seeing the end result.

I like the concept of the bulkhead and door, but it is limiting to get in there and do the final installation(s).

Have you considered a removeable bulkhead with a door?

Make up an accurate pattern (I like strips of thin ply scribed to fit and hot glued together) of the bulkhead. Fit it well but loose enough to remove. Then after painting or whatever you will be doing, screw it in with finish washers, or through bolt it, and maybe even gasket it if a waterproof bulkhead is desired. Now it can be removed any time easy access is needed.

[capt jake]

I made a new bulkhead and cut out a larger door. Already installed the bulkhead, just didn't have the camera to take picutres. It is large enough to get in there now. Only thing I should have done different was to not use Okume, simply because of price. I later went to my supplier and they have really nice looking Meranti in stock for 1/2 the price. Being as the boat is Philipine Mahogany (Meranti) it would have matched better. Oh well. The bulkhead is not original anyway, but adds storage and strength.

The twisting of the hull has lessoned some with the re-fastening I have already done and hop it wil continue getting better as I go. I bolted to 2x4's tranversly accross the middle frames prior to rollover. Mike suggested screwing on a piece of plywood to take out some of the torsion or twist. It really worked well.

[Mike Routley]

Had a blast yesterday. Turning that puppy over was more than I

exoected. The picture of the window frame dosen't do justice to your craftsmanship. Up close and personal it looks to be dead on. I can help out pretty much whenever you want some company. Just give me a ring.

Mike

[mrthethird]

New question. One that is hard to put into words.

How much should a boat of this construction wrack or twist? I have the transom firmly supported (tied) to a sawhorse as I am taking it off of the trailer. it is tied off at two separate points (motorwell drain holes). I have the bow supported at a single point of blocking.

If I grab the side of the bow and give it a shake; the boat 'twists' from side to side. Was there that much movement in a boat of this type? All of the plywood seems securely fastened' date=' though I am going to re-fasten it. The glue bonds seem to be intact at the stringers.

???[/quote']

I don't usually pipe my opinion into these kind of issues, but I have a little experience here. Each fastener, when originally installed, was tight, just like the bed of a pick-up truck. Through age, vibration, and some abuse (probably unintentional abuse), these fastener points loosen to a degree. Same reason an old truck seems to "shift" going around tight corners.

Checking the fasterners and seams for integrity is the cure, pouring a little thickened epoxy into the fastener holes first will do the trick. Check the chine and frame seams from the inside.

It's an old wood boat, one I wouldn't have been interested in, until you started refurbishing it. My grandfather had a boat just like it, and was always fiddling around with the keel and transom to get the sway out of it. A little sway probably can't be avoided, but too much is obviously a problem.

My gut feeling is that once you get the bad fasteners out, the seams checked out, and the deck back on, most of your problem will go away. Adding stiffener frames and bulkheads may be another option to pursue.

Just my .02 1/2

[mrthethird]

Wow, that took a while to post....

Looks like it was the common theme, though.

[capt jake]

Mrthethird, you post is timely. I am starting on teh fasteners (from the outside). There are all rusted to the point that I do not see any way of removing them. Just too far gone.

I am thinking of driving them in a ways and then grinding the accesable rust off of the top. Followed by thickened epoxy. New SS scews (or maybe bronze ring shank nails) next to the old fastener (they were nails). I wouild prefer to remove them completely, but it just doesn't seem practicle as there are well over 500 of them.

The sheer joint is already loose, so I am going to clean that up real good and shoot epoxy in the joint and re-set it. Being as it is only 1/4", I will probably go with temporary cauls and stables to hold it while the epoxy cures. I might follow that up with a few 1/2" #6 screws.

As far as the chine joints (inside), there were some gaps, but the outside of the hull is very fair. I feel that the gaps were just plain porr fit from the bbeginning. I filled all of those while it was upright with thickened epoxy. It took several coats to do this. First two were straight epoxy, to allow it to migrate into any cracks. I followed that with thickened epoxy.

I gotta tell you, I often wonder if I am wasting my time, but I have only had it for about 6 weeks and if I stand back, progress is moving pretty quickly.

[capt jake]

Had a blast yesterday.

You're a sick man! I have several sanders, if you like that too! :roll: :roll: