Trailer Tales

[Frank Hagan]

Some of you know I bought a used, beat up trailer for $100 ... well, it also had a boat on it that I bought for another $100, then sold it for $50. So I guess the trailer cost me $150. Versus $700 for a new one.

Wish I had bought new! I just finished fixing "trailer cancer" (rust!) along the starboard axle / leaf spring attachment. Like all of these repairs, it started out with just a few parts, and ended up costing more than I would have ever imagined. I finally have it fixed, but what a job. Now I need a fender for that side. (Surprisingly the other side looks OK ... not quite so much rust ... it hasn't perforated anyways).

So here's what I've learned about trailers:

1). Buy new or very, very good used.

2). It is nearly impossible to get bearings pressed into old hubs.

3). Bearings can cost as much as new hubs, with bearings already installed, at Northern Tool. I have the receipts to prove it.

4). Rust is the enemy. Salt water makes things rust quickly.

5). Working on trailers is not as much fun as working on boats.

[tdrown]

Working on trailers is not as much fun as working on boats.

When you work on a boat you(at least I do) often picture yourself sailing on the water and having fun.

When you work on a trailer you picture yourself stuck in traffic.

[waynemunro]

I agree Frank, I have not kept track of exactly how much I have spent on 'fixing' up my cheap trailer, but pretty sure it would be well over half the cost of a new one.

got the trailer, all looked good, then:

- bearings needed replacing, too old, much cheaper to buy new hubs and stubs

- added suspension, so then needed to get axle made

- no winch, added one of those

- lights were screwed, put new ones on

- failed warrent of fitness on tyres, new regs say they have to match, put new ones on

- replaced some rusty bolts... and all that got me going originally

- more recently had to replace safety chain and one wheel rim.

all and all, has been a fairly time consuming procedure and with hindsight it might have been better to get something new made. However the trailer I have now is pretty much bomb-proof and is much heavier duty that what would have been made.. and it tows really well... so I won't complain too much.

[barnacle5]

I never carry the lights on my trailers. they never work when you want them to. I have a set of lights attached to an aluminum bar and a long cord and keep it behind the seat of my truck. when i need lights. I got them. just bungee them to the back of the boat or trailer and remove them before dunking. just what I do. barnacle bill

[MisterMoon]

FWIW, just this year I bought a brand new 500 lb capacity galvanized steel trailer for my Sunfish for less than $500. Yeah, the trailer is worth more than the boat, but now I've got a good trailer in good repair that will work well for any boat I might build for many years. Buying new, or very nearly so, especially for small, light boats isn't a bad idea, IMO.

Then there's my 35' long pontoon boat trailer that's sitting out in the sun, rotting away... I'd have to buy four new tires if I wanted to tow the boat more than a mile. Don't know what I'm gonna do with it either, cuz' the boat is doing just fine sitting in the water. I guess I'm keeping it for resale value...

[Craig]

Frank I have already replaced the lights and springs on my 4 yeatr old trailer. The salt water really eats everything that didn't get hot dipped. I suspect two more years and the rims will be gone.... Can't grease anything or oil coat it as it will end up in the water. Under coiater might work but I am leary of trapping the water next to the metal. It's just the price of living with salt water.

[Frank Hagan]

Not a bad idea on the lights, barnacle5. I have seen that done, and every time I see it, I think what a great idea to avoid getting the lights wet (and shorting out the bulbs) when water finally gets through the seals.

Craig, you have hit the nail on the head about salt water, and no real way to prevent rusting because of environmental concerns. I suppose you could continue to paint the springs, but I suspect that would be a losing battle. The funny thing is that we rinse off our wet trailers with fresh water, and while the lesser of two evils, its still the "universal solvent" and will lead to failure of the parts.

[waynemunro]

I agree about the removable lights for sure barnacle5, that is what I have done on my weekender, there should be a picture below showing what I have done.

the lights are on a slightly curved wooden beam which rests on the top of the toe rails, at the to rail there is a small stub sticking out the front, which is flush with the bottom of the beam, and aligned with the toe rail. this allows me to use the rear tie down to both hold the weekender on the trailer, and hold the lights on, seems to work quite well, I am happy with it. It gives the lights great visibility too as they are right out there.

[attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

[Kidd]

Where does one look to purchase a new boat trailer?

[tdrown]

Where does one look to purchase a new boat trailer?

Mostly any boat dealer will carry at least a few new trailers. Mine's from a place near Allentown that sells mainly fiberglass powerboats. It's a Load-rite.

[Kidd]

Thanks, I have done several searches on line and turned up nothing. I will try to find a local boat dealer.

[Frank Hagan]

Where does one look to purchase a new boat trailer?

Look in the yellow pages for trailers. There will be several dealers in your area that carry some of the brands made down in Florida, and I'm sure some are made there in Georgia. The Weekender can use a flat boat trailer ... these guys get scared when you sail "sailboat trailer" because they are used to trailers for sailboats with 4' deep keels.

[kydocfrog]

I used a separate light bar that doubled as a mast and spar cradle when I had my Cape Dory Cat. Unfortunately, one day when hauling without the mast on, my tie down arrangement proved unsatsifactory without the extra weight of the mast, bar came off, and when I looked in the rear view mirror to see what the noise was, saw cars all over the place heading for the high hills to dodge the light bar which was bouncing happily along the highway. Lucky I didn't kill somebody. Lesson: carefully consider all possible towing configurations when designing a light bar rig... :?

For WayneMunro : looks like the same motor mount I picked up. Couple of questions -- how did you reinforce behind transom? (note, my transom and sides came already on... ) Do you have any problems with the geometry of the lift or under power since you just went ahead and mounted directly on the transom without any compensating wedge to square things up? I've been considering that, but it may be beyond my tooling, so I've wondered what would happen if I just ignored the double bevel.

[barnacle5]

bolt it on doc. I haven't seen a small motor yet that didn't have a trim adjustment on it and it's going to swivel too. it's not like wheels on a car needing to be in alignment. it will work fine.

on the trailer lights mine are on an aluminum bar for it grounds them better. I hardly ever attach them unless I'm pulling at dusk or in the dark . with farm tags on the truck, trailer lights are not required in KY if you can see the truck lights past the trailer. rural area anyways. just a tidbit of information you guys might be interested in. Ky doesn't register trailers either. just the boat and only if it has a motor. no motor no registration and no taxes. why would anyone in Ky want a motor on their sailboat?

Ky doc Frog. I am leaning toward sailing on thursday. call early to reserve a place in the boat. Darethea has been cooking again too. give me a call on the land line. the best to all . barnacle bill

[waynemunro]

hi kydocfrog,

the motor mount is home made, though I did copy the design from ones I have seen around and about. Barnacle5 is right, I use the trim adjustment on the motor to bring it back to vertical, the maximum setting was just enough to make everything sit right.

behind the transom I expoxied ona squre of ply, I think it was 6mm (1/4 inch) but may have been 9mm. the ply was large enough to go well beyond all of the bolt holes, I didn't do any additional reinforcement, the back does not seem to have fallen off yet

[Russ Sylvester]

One other thought about finding decent used trailers is at a marina. Some folks will abandon their trailer after deciding on a slip rather than trailering. I know that a marina close to my slip has trailers stacked up like cord wood and will sell them dirt cheap. All it takes is an eye for what's good and then finding out who owns it.

Russ