Waste Knot 14'

[Guest]

oooooooooo ahhhhhhhhhhhh

very nice...i like the edge detail...sMOOth!

a.

Ahh, the edge detail is just a router line, waiting for some paint. I ain't having no varnish on this one. This is just like my first mud skiff, that I would gig Flounder with my daddy out of the bow. I will make my own poling oar and rowing oars this week, all painted out with flat white. I like it when it greys out, but do not like it when the ash splinters.

[Guest]

Update time. No the color is not going to be puke brown. :wink: Long story behind that coat. A nice friend loaned me his sailfish rig to check for size and stuff for the rigging. I also have decided to just use a good old paddle for my rudder, and check the performance of the overall boat before doing all of that work stuff for the kickup rudder. I have placed two nice bronze sockets at the top of the transom on each side to accomadate the sculling and rowing part of this rig.

If you will notice at the inside of the transom, I places a quarter knee like with 3/4" holes, for tying lines, in lieu of cleats. This was the old fashion way, with little bits of hardware for workboat nets to hang up in working boats.

[attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

[Stump]

Oyster,

Did you have any problems with the lapstrake? What method did you use to get the lines? How much sanding did you have to do? And, did you do it on the boat or at the bench? I'm also betting that you built it the traditoinal way, on a strong back? I was reading about different types of planking and the author stated that lapstrake wasn't that hard, just time consuming. Did you figure out how to do it yourself or have you seen it done before?

The reason I'm asking is my neighbor was going to throw out a bunch or old lumber he had stored in his yard sooo, I grabbed it, lots of usable 1by, 2by and 3by.

Thought of your skiff and well... you get the picture, I get the feeling that my Weekender is going to have a tender too.

[Guest]

Oyster' date='

Did you have any problems with the lapstrake? What method did you use to get the lines? How much sanding did you have to do? And, did you do it on the boat or at the bench? I'm also betting that you built it the traditoinal way, on a strong back? I was reading about different types of planking and the author stated that lapstrake wasn't that hard, just time consuming. Did you figure out how to do it yourself or have you seen it done before?

The reason I'm asking is my neighbor was going to throw out a bunch or old lumber he had stored in his yard sooo, I grabbed it, lots of usable 1by, 2by and 3by.

Thought of your skiff and well... you get the picture, I get the feeling that my Weekender is going to have a tender too.[/quote']

Well, where do I begin here. Lets discuss wood first here. The type of wood, the length of time outside, if applicable, depends on what you can actually do with the wood. This stuff was wetern red cedar, mixed bag of clear and knots. Pine 2x4s has its limitations on what you maybe able to do in building a boat, or tender as you say here.

If you will go back to the orignal post, and also scan through some of the above ones, you will find out that I used KISS plans. :wink: For those of you that don't know this phrase, this is "keep it simple stupid". It also happened that this cedar siding was already lapped, and I altered the laps a bit. So this was an advantage also. I also liked the groove on the backs of the boards, so I did not plane them down, but used the complete thickness as I did wish to have some extra weight in the boat.

There is several reasons for this, one being western red cedar is not all that structual and will splnter out in some occasions when bending around curves. I also did not want to glass anything. So I went with the full thickness.

Lapstrake is not hard, but several things are important when building this way. If you plane the boards down to minimum thickness, you may not be able to use a lap and this does create more work in the layup. The reason for this is that overlap widths need ot be close to uniform, to make the boat come out right in freeboard, and end up both fore and aft at the same point. This is another reason for either cutting laps in the boards. This will require an additional thickness to have some full width left upon planking to show the lap.

Lapstrake boats has an advantage that it creates its own batten fore and aft, and therfore is actually a stronger hull for the same thickness of wood. It is also great from the standpoint of storing a regular boat on a trailer, out of the water. In todays building, we still use plywood for the bottoms, to eliminate the added problems with expansion and contraction out of the water.

The paint jobs will hold up better, and will require less work upon redo. A single person can paint a larger hull by themselves, with ease, since you have a nice breaking point for the brush strokes.

Do not finish sand you planks on the bench. just sand it enough to have good clean wood to work with, in the beginning. You will have glue lines and seams to fill, since the planks will lay a little different at each parts of the hull. You will need some types of lapclamps for simple seams, in the construction phase of the boat. You can make them also also from plywood. I just use small sheetrock screws predrilling , and then come back after the glue dries , take them out and put good screws or rivets, or clink nails in the seams after doing the finish work.

The reason for this is the sanding part is easier without anything in your way.

Since I had a lot of experience in flat bottom work skiffs, and building with avaliable materials, we very rarely used plans, just built to what we had that was cut down or close by at the sawmill.

Next winter, if we didn't like the boat, we just threw another one together that had a few updates in it. As for pleasure use, as our families grew up, we needed less space, so we would get rid of the ones with all the storage and bulld an open one. Its a mental illness, as so many will attest to, as you can't stop buiilding once the fun begins. I come in at nights and will sometime wait till bedtime, before bathing, to be afforded the nice smell of the wood on me. Now you know some of us have it pretty bad for sure.

Keep this one thing in mind. In many of the round chine bilge tenders, much of the above will not apply. IN some of the ondeck tenders, the planks end up lookiing like bommerangs if laid flat. The shaping of the proceeding planks will need a lot of hand fitting in the overlaps.

[Stump]

Perfect!! Thanks, ya' cleared up a lot of questions I had

[Guest]

Well, she went a sailing today. Yes I had a camera, but was not able ot use it. Too much fun going on. Three of us fitted neatly away in a five to eight knot wind, some gust to around 10. The sunfish sail did not cut it. It needs more rigging. This was just the test I needed since we will be carrying a lot of gear most of the time. What amount of sail area do most of you use, for your weekender? And what weights are you pushing in your boats? The boat is very stable with the narrow beam, and can be poled with ease from the rowing seat. Oars, YEA I made some oars out of a 2x4 spruce, split down the middle, with 12 inch blades bolted together and shanks sanded semi round. Man did they do the job, both rowing, and poling.

[Stump]

OK, lets see the oars....

I should be able to figure out the camera I borrowed in the next day or so to post some of my own pictures. :roll:

[Guest]

Oars for dummies and cheapies,

[attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

[Stump]

Now thats my kind of paddle, I think even I could do that :wink:

[Guest]

To complete the thread, this morning was a quick run around the wild horses.

[attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

[Frank Hagan]

Either that's a "thin water boat" or that horse is walking on water!

Great shots, Oyster! Looks like the "Waste Knot" boat is up to task.

[Guest]

Yep, thin water boat. And yes it is very stable. I can walk around the seating area and not be worried with distabilizing it. But we had her in around 15 knots of wind today, with the approaching weather and it handled pretty good. I added a bigger kickup rudder blade, and with the centerboard, it handled the wind pretty good. I plan on adding a jib to it. It was a fun project, and very rewarding indeed. Now for the electric part of it next time. This area is part of some mighty good drum fishing in the fall of the year. I sometimes laugh at those fancy flats boat tearing the props up attempting to even go where my garvey can go. This one will do twice as shallow and less weight for poling. Mamma was happy. So I guess we all are happy.