Scott Dunsworth Posted May 30, 2004 Posted May 30, 2004 Tonight was the first time I got to work on my boat in five weeks. hoping to move a long quite a bit faster soon. I have pretty well the whole month of June off, two weeks in July and two weeks in August. Here are a few pictures. I still have to sand the deadwood and hand sand the chines. Going to use 404 primer by Interlux hope it will build up a bit and also sand fairly easly. Some of you that have used it, how does it do? Anyway she will be painted in the next few weeks ready or not. Scott [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin] Quote
John Kinnane Posted May 30, 2004 Posted May 30, 2004 Coming along very nicely Scott. What plywood did you end up using. Quote
Scott Dunsworth Posted May 30, 2004 Author Posted May 30, 2004 John I used 1088 meranti from noahs. A lot of people prefer okoume. Okoume is lighter but softer also. I used 1088 Okoume on my Penobscot 14. I really do like the meranti the best. The color and the way it works just fit what I like the best. If I was building a canoe, the okoume would probaly be my choice because it bends a little easyer. John I just sent you a email to ask if you have started on your Belhaven. Scott Quote
capt jake Posted May 30, 2004 Posted May 30, 2004 Curiosity here, what is the deadrise on the Bellhaven? Looks like 10-13 degrees or so. Just curious. Quote
edt Posted May 30, 2004 Posted May 30, 2004 Scott, Do you have figures for how many sheets of plywood you have used? And an estimate of how much more you will need? TIa Ed Quote
Scott Dunsworth Posted May 30, 2004 Author Posted May 30, 2004 Ray after all you have told me I don't think I want to use 404 primerafter all. This painting thing has just been a mild nightmare for me. There are the products that can be used below the water line and them that cant. If you want the same color hull, sides and bottom there is not one paint to use. I have emailed manufactures of two part polys and asked can I leave this boat in the water for a few weeks at a time without any problems and the answer is always probably not. Graham suggested al-grip but by the time you buy everything you need it would cost $500 plus to paint the bottom and sides. Larry Raka said use latex primer and paint but I didn't tell him I was going to use the boat in salt water from time to time. There is a local Benjamin moore paint store and he checked with their tec. center and recommended a two part epoxy primer and then a two part industrial paint. Total cost would be about $200. edt It looks like what Graham planed is going to work out. Jake I am not sure of what you are asking. Scott Quote
Designer Posted May 30, 2004 Posted May 30, 2004 Jake, The least deadrise is 8 degrees aft of midships and increases fore and aft. Quote
Mike Vacanti Posted June 1, 2004 Posted June 1, 2004 Ray, You mentioned that you feel ill after applying 2 part LPU paint. How are you applying it, spray or brush? Thanks, Mike Quote
PJPiercey Posted June 2, 2004 Posted June 2, 2004 I used the System Three primer and paint for the CK17 I built. The pimer is just epoxy resin with a special hardener, high build. The paint is a linear polyurethane. Much tougher than Brightsides, which I used on another boat. The beauty of this stuff is WATER CLEAN UP, NO FUMES, and designed to go over epoxy. The primer reduces with a 50/50 mix of water and rubbing alchohol. The paint reduces with water. Don't confuse it with latex, it's not the same, its linear polyurethane. I used a cheap sprayer to apply primer and paint. I wet sanded and buffed the final coat of paint and it looks like new gelcoat. Read about it on the System Three web site. Paul Piercey Quote
capt jake Posted June 2, 2004 Posted June 2, 2004 PJ, I have heard extremes on both sides of the water based PLU.. Both totally positive and negative Can you elighten us on either side? It sounds slick, but I have always been apprehensive about tring it. Thanks, Jake Quote
John Yow Posted June 2, 2004 Posted June 2, 2004 I used System 3 primer and topcoat on my first boat. The primer is great, with a good build and fairly easy to sand. The top coat (LPU) was more of a problem for me. I never got a fine finish with roll and tip. Probably just my fault. But the finish does seem to hold up well to bangs and scrapes. I am planning to use Easypoxy primer and topcoat for my CS17 hull. I am inclined to try the latex acrylic enamel from Sherman Williams to see if I cpuld get an acceptable result for the hull. John CS17#102 Quote
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