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PJPiercey

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About PJPiercey

  • Birthday January 1

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    Edmonds, WA

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  1. No kidding! Check out some of the weather these guys sailed through. http://r2ak.com/video-photos/
  2. I rigged up a poor mans lathe. I used a stop block at the end of the mast to create a true ridge. I followed this up with fairing compound to make a nice smooth transition. Paul
  3. It takes a lot of pigment to get solid coverage with epoxy. It is easier to just use a good two part high build primer. Also some paints do not react well with epoxy and it is necessary to have the primer anyway. Paul
  4. When I use the 12 oz biax I just fair it out with Quick Fair from Systems Three. I have never felt the need for glass over the top. 12 oz biax, Quick Fair, and then System Three's high build primer. I found this to be quick and easy. Also, I didn't find it hard to wet out. I used a mix of medium and slow hardener to give more working time and the glass would continue to wet out as I worked ahead on the next pieces. I just layed the cloth down on the precoated joint and then wet it out. Paul
  5. I was told by the sellers of the biax to expect about a 30% increase in strength when going to biax from the same weight woven. I chose to go with 12 oz biax vs. 9 oz woven. Based on the following: "Directional fabrics ( biaxials, triaxials) are much stronger while lighter than the common woven fabrics. They cost more by the area but almost the same by weight. As they use less resin (less weight), the resulting composite does not cost more than the low tech one." I also found the biax much easier to work with. It conforms to shapes and corners much, much, easier. The end result was a stiffer, stronger boat at about the same price. Paul
  6. A woven fiber has less strength than non woven fibers. Biax is non woven. So the result would be better than 70%.
  7. Ditto what Oyster said. I used the Coresound 20 mast scantlings for my CK17 and added aluminum North Sails windsurf mast tips for the upper portion of the masts. Extremely light and they work great. Paul
  8. I used an acid wash/etch, followed by System Three epoxy primer, followed by Stystem Three linear poyurathane. Nice hard, durable finish. Paul
  9. Where are you going to sail? If you get this message in time, maybe I can take some pictures for you. I would also like to see the boat Paul Piercey Edmonds, WA
  10. When I did mine I wrapped on a little extra tape. Then I rigged up my router as kind of a poor mans lathe. This got it perfectly round. I left a little room for the epoxy primer and the final paint. Paul
  11. Different design, but the same principle. I have rowed many miles and it tracks perfectly. Paul
  12. Tim, You might want to take a look at this thread about using plywood for daggerboards. It explains how one failed and how I constructed mine to be successful. http://forums.bateau2.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3978&highlight=centerboard The things I like about using the plywood are: Easy to laminate up a nice dimensional core. About 20 oz of fiberglass laminated between the first two layers of plywood gives you a nice solid trailing edge (after shaping) that is less prone to chipping. The leading edge becomes very durable with the solid fiberglass at the apex. Plywood gives you automatic contour lines to guide your shaping making it much easier to get a very fair shape. I agree with all the comments about the plywood strength verses the solid wood so glassing the exterior is a must. When you read my account of how I layed mine up keep in mind I used the wood I had available and I wanted the overall thickness to be one inch so I could create a NACA 0010 foil shape. Good luck with the building and I look forward to seeing some pictures. Paul Piercey
  13. How about that stuff they coat the beds of pickups with. I have heard very good reports about its durability. Paul
  14. http://www.messing-about.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2183&highlight=source+oars Paul
  15. When I was deciding on oars for the boat I measured and fussed for quite a few days. I wanted to keep the oars as small as possible but still have a lot of power. I was surprised how well they work, I was thinking they were going to feel a little short. I have rowed the boat several miles in dead calm and never felt like I wanted more oar. I also found that when maneuvering out of a crowded anchorage with a bunch of wind and choppy water the blades are easy to clear the tops of the waves. Actually the ergonomics feel the same as a Mckenzie drift boat I had. The picture is taken from a beach in the village of Komiza. http://home.comcast.net/~pjpiercey/komiza/index.html I built the boat here in Edmonds, Washington, shipped it to Komiza to have a vessel to mess about in and explore the surrounding islands. The Dalmatian coast of the Adriatic is a spectacular place. Paul
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