Side Stringer attachment ? Core Sound 17

[thebob]

I'm asking for the preferred method of attaching the side stringers.

It looks easy untill you start thinking about it because the 3/4 x 16 nails need driving through from one side while locating the stringer from the other.

The problem is locating the stringer on the other side of a long flexible piece of ply whilst securing with a nail or screw.

I have thought of 2 methods, but I would love to hear from anyone who has done it, or anyone who has a hot idea.

Idea 1.

First place the side, outside down on the bench.

Once the position has been marked.

Apply epoxy to the stringer and pin through into the bench with 1 1/2 x16 nails.

Remove nails after epoxy cures.

Fill holes during fileting/faring.

Idea 2

First place the side, outside down on the bench.

Once the position has been marked.

Drill pilot holes through stringers and ply.

Apply epoxy to stringer

From the outside, screw into stringer.

Remove screws after epoxy cures.

Fill holes during fileting/faring.

Idea 1 seems easyest. What do you guys think?

[Brent]

I used idea number 2, just because I did not want nails sticking out to cause bodily harm. I also like to use screws for this type job so that the amount of compression the glue joint can be controlled.

[Roger Peterson]

I used Ray's example with great success. I used sheet rock screws with packing tape covered plywood pads to keep the screw heads from denting the hull skin. I used Gorilla glue but would recommend epoxy because the Gorilla glue is an expanding foam type of glue and if it even starts to set before you get all the screws tight, you will never get the stringer tight against the hull. :roll:

Roger

[John Yow]

I just attached mine and did it a different way. I used sheetrock screws from the inside. I will remove the sheetrock screws and have holes that I will need to patch.

John Yow

[John Burritt]

Even easier when using screws is to use large diameter/small hole fender washers to keep the heads from pulling into the wood. Also, should a screw become stuck, its easier to heat it without scorching the plywood.

[Scott Dufour]

Anytime I need to find a board out of view, I use a long, fairly ridged "U" shaped piece of wire or coathanger with the two ends of the "U" carefully aligned. You can use one tip of the "U" to tap the stringer on the far side of the plywood and the other tip on your side will tell you where you should drill. It's low tech and never misses.

[mustangermatt]

Yep, I just did mine a few weeks ago. I marked the line the stringer should follow from the plans. Then with the outside down on several saw horses I clamped the after end on the mark, and drilled a small hole all the way through. Being on saw horses I could then put the screw in from below (the outside) and move up to the next hole.

Once I got all the screws located I removed them, applied epoxy to the stringer and side, and then replaced the screws.

I removed the screws after about 10 hours to avoid stuck screws. Worked great.

[thebob]

Thanks a lot for all your knowlege.

I'm really going to miss this forum when I'm actually building the boat.

I'll be off late next week to the Philippines to secure my workshop, the rest of my tools, and buy my materials.

I've entered the BOM into a spreadsheet to try and cost it.

More questions coming up.

[Tim]

Just did this step today with a different, I think easier, method. Lay the side panel outside down on the floor. Glue stringer with thickened epoxy. Lay it on the panel marked positions. Put weights (full paint cans bricks,etc) on top of stringer to clamp. You need to use some heavy weights on the sides of the stringer to hold the bend; its a tighter bend then it looks. As always keep the cat out the mess. No screws or nails needed. By the way the plans call for 18'-6" of stringer, I only used just under 16 feet, maybe I will end up with a CS15. :wink: