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design suggestions for waterproof hatches in kayak


Brendan

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I am building a Vardo and the frame is essentially done, lashed and I am just sorting out the coaming (laminating and failing so far) the final steps.

 

I am really curious about what people have done in their designs of access hatches that have worked well.

 

Looking at this thread and this beautiful boat got me thinking about stowage. https://messing-about.com/forums/topic/11660-vardo-launch-in-bavaria/

 

This design seems to use some some off the shelf inspection ports or hatches. I like the way its worked onto the bow/stern center deck stringer before skinning but would prefer to work in wood due to the style I am going for and the fact that those plastic things are expensive and dont seem to come in the shapes I want.

https://messing-about.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2020_05/e4a9669b-4fac-42fc-8339-cb0ba2096fb3.JPG.a32b0ee0bd282006eb9b288bff9ff196.JPG

 

 

I still have half a sheet of marine grade plywood to work with, I was thinking perhaps I could double that up and but some round frames with mounting points for the stringers to be placed under the skin when sewn/painted and do a similar thing however if I don’t buy something that comes with a lid I am not sure how to seal it. That design has marrit because I suspect I can put that under the skin, sew paint and later cut that out to add the hatches when I have time.
 

However if I build them that way I am not sure how I will seal them in a waterproof way and am wondering if a coaming with a lip is ideal and what people use to seal those type of hatches, is there some kind of neoprene cover or wooden/gasketed thing I can make with the extra polyester I will have?

 

 

Bonus Question:

the book says laminated coaming strips are 3/16 which seems way to thick, whereas the video on YouTube says 3/32 thick strips (I suspect this to be the correct one).

 

I tried initially 1/16, which was way to thin and bend when damp with glue and could had many gaps even when strap clamped and additionally clamped all over with c clamps and wooden blocks on my jig. What thickness do people find ideal?

 

Cheers,

 

B

 

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To be blunt, I have found hatches pretty useless unless you are going camping or have need to haul a bunch of stuff. I rarely carry more than a spare paddle, water and some food maybe. Hatches just add weight and need upkeep. So I no long put them in my boats.  YMMV of course.

 

As for strip thickness on a coaming it depends on the wood. I have used maple which can be quite thick. I have used oak which has to thinner but bends well using a heat gun. I tired cherry for a client but could not get it thin enough to bend and gave up on that.

 

I don't like wet wood because how do you glue wet wood?  I bend mine dry with a heat gun, apply glue as I go.

 

Regardless what wood you use your going to have to clamps. I bought some expensive Jorgy strap clamps that put out some really high clamping pressure but I still needed a few clamps. I see why and the curves in the coaming could be redesigned to work with a strap clamp  but the design is used on ever boat and so few people laminate I am not going to do that.

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Hi Jeff,

 

Yes my intention is camping specifically. I would like to be able to get a tent in a dry bag, or a float bag in that rear section of Vardo and I don't think I will have an easy time doing that without a hatch. 

 

Maybe in practice it would not be a problem that said once the skin is on I wont be changing it so easily then.

 

I could do something more simple like make that vertical cross brace behind the seat removable, however I suspect I might just wish I have done a hatch.

 

---

 

In regards to the coaming, the idea of a belt clamp comes from your video, I may have used the wrong terminology.

 

I am finding 2-32 be to be max thickness for my kiln dried maple strips for bending them around the coaming with a heatgun.

 

For anyone doing this where I to do it again I would try harder to buy non kiln dried wood I hear it bends much better or even bending stock as those even unsteamed should bend much more before cracking. I would buy a ratchet strap at least as wide as the material (mine is too narrow) and probably at least 10 C clamps (specifically C clamps). I have many clamps but I find my other clamps to be mostly useless, the only better thing might be a clamp with a tall clamping surface (which my F clamps lack) to avoid the situation where the glue wet wood moves under the clamp. Its kind of a PITA to be honest. 


 

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If you are camping then hatches are probably worth it. I can't remember the details but I am sure I documented it somewhere in a video or on the web site. But I like the hatches mounted to plywood attached to the frame. I like the SeaLect design hatches and that is why I sell them. They are not cheap but they are good and they are water tight. When  you get the hang of them they are easy on and easy off. But it took me while to learn how.

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Hi Brendan.

 

i build an Vardo with hatches. (Wilderness Orbix))

 

- they look ugly

- they made the kajak heavier

- they are expensive

- they made the skinnig much more worse

 

But I would never want to do without hatches: I use them constantly, for provisions, clothes, camping gear etc.

In my eyes it is worth it.

 

 

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