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Everything posted by andy00

  1. Brother Walter: For my Ravenswood, I installed a pair of braces between the bottom piece of the plywood coaming and the sheer stringers to stiffen things up (see pics below). Then I pulled the skin, which was already fastened elsewhere, over the bottom piece and stapled it in place using Monel staples. Then I attached the rest of the coaming with stainless steel screws. Then I cut off the excess skin from the inside of the cockpit. Almost forgot; at some point after initial construction, I removed the top section and put some caulking on and put it back together to solve some seepage. For more pics and ideas, see yostwerks.org. Have fun! Andy
  2. Rex: Yes, I really like using (and making) native-style paddles. You can experiment and find what works best for your body, boat, and style of paddling. My favorite is a West Geenland/Aleut hybrid, which is the black paddle with red trim in the photo. Fair winds, Andy
  3. Rex: Your curlew looks nice and it sounds like you move along quickly. You write that you have a low COG with a thin trail seat, but in the photo you look quite high in the boat. Are your floorboards on the underside of the frames per Jeff's usual design practice? How thick are the floorboards? Is there anything between the boards and the trail seat? For contrast, the attached photo shows me in my Ravenswood. There appears to be less of me above the boat. I believe the dimensions of the two boats are similar. I'm about 5'-11" tall. Fair winds, Andy
  4. Will: In regard to "lean it over until the gunwale dipped in the water." Get on Youtube and search "sculling brace." You'll find a number of helpful videos. You'll need a sprayskirt if you want to do more of that sort of thing. If you're looking for a winter project, I'd also recommend making yourself a Greenland style paddle. I prefer them for bracing and for paddling in general. As far as performance, Jeff categorizes the Curlew and the Ravenswood as "fast cruisers." I think that is a good description. When paddling with club groups, my Ravenswood is among the fastest and can keep up with longer boats. I've done some 5K and 10K races and the only boats that blow by me are specialty racing kayaks (about 19 feet long and 19 inches beam) and outrigger canoes. On his website, Jeff provides some good thoughts on design considerations and boat speed. Fair winds, Andy
  5. Will: Very nice! Along with the photos that Jeff requested, please provide a performance review. As far as stability, make sure you are sitting as near the floor as practical. I use a Therm-a-rest Trail Seat, which is quite thin, on the floor boards of my Ravenswood. Some velcro on the bottom keeps things in place. To reduce the flexibility of the plywood coaming on my boat, I epoxied in a brace on each side between the coaming and the sheer stringer (see pics below). For more pictures of that kind of brace, see yostwerks.org (a very interesting and useful website). Fair winds, Andy
  6. Uncle Wheezy: Looks great! For tips on getting in and out dry, go to YouTube and search for "How to Get Into and Out of a Kayak Smoothly." Have fun!
  7. Cousin Kunzie: Nice! Please let us in on some particulars: materials, construction methods, issues during construction, deviations from design, etc. Also, we'll need some pics and/or videos on the water. Fair winds!
  8. "There are only two colors to paint a boat, black and white, and only a fool would paint a boat black." - Nathanael G. Herreshoff (My Ravenswood is tan) Have fun!
  9. Cousin Sailormon: That's an interesting design concept. The core question is whether the flex experienced with the standard design is, in fact, a problem. There will always be some flex in a boat, even with your stiffening modification, so how much is acceptable? Some structures need to be quite rigid to fulfill their design requirements. Others require more flexibility. What degree of flexibility is optimum for a kayak? It is likely that flexibility improves hydrodynamics up to some point. To me, it feels a bit like a solution looking for a problem. I built and paddle a Ravenswood, which is 15.5 feet, not one of Jeff's longer boats. I can feel it flex, especially when there is chop of a certain size, but it doesn't constitute any sort of problem. If I were building a longer boat, I would pay attention to the type of the wood I used (both species and individual sticks), scantlings, and the grain (straight with minimum runouts). Fair winds!
  10. This is only a guess, but this may be the same phenomenon that resulted in the addition of dimples to golf balls. The dimples create a thin layer of turbulent flow on the surface of the golf ball. The air outside that layer then moves with linear flow for a greater distance along the ball than it otherwise would, resulting in reduced drag.
  11. Cousin Jacobs: Looks nice! Please report back with further progress, ideally, before another 10 years go by. Fair winds!
  12. Hbrew: Regarding your knees hitting the deck beams, you can (obviously) modify the boat and/or (not as obviously) modify you. Try sitting on the floor while watching TV, instead of sitting in a chair. Try to keep your knees lower and your back straighter (sit tall). Gradually, you'll be able to sit that way longer and paddle stronger. Fair winds!
  13. andy00


    Wally: For a better response to your questions, move your post over to the Kudzu Craft Forum. I hope this project proves less dangerous than the martin house. Have fun!
  14. As a practical matter, the characteristics of the species of wood you choose, as well as the characteristics of the particular board you choose, will be at least as important as the difference of 1/8" in the scantlings. Choose boards of the best wood readily available and cut stringers with the straightest grain, fewest knots, and least runout. Don't overthink dimensions.
  15. Google "duck punt." These traditional British boats are sailed and are pretty similar to pirogues. Also check out Phil Bolger's "Teal" design.
  16. Steve: Sorry. Vorpal has left for a new home. There were additional posts on this thread documenting that but those posts seemed to have disappeared. I recommend that you go ahead a build a Robote. It will go together quickly and provide excellent rowing performance. I'll be happy to share whatever tips and photos that might help you with the build. Feel free to send me a private message. Fair winds for 2021, Andy
  17. Daniel: Remember that there are two reasons for floor boards in a skin-frame boat: 1) to keep pressure from feet and/or butt off the inside of the skin, and 2) to keep feet and butt out of the bilge water. Having some bilge water is inevitable. Many small, wooden paddling and rowing craft have floor boards as well, but for those, usually only reason number 2 applies. Those floor boards often have an opening at a low spot where you can bail or use a sponge. As far as letting your heels touch the skin, I think that's exactly where they should be. Any sort of floor board will move your heels higher. For comfort, ergonomics, and stability, you want to be as low in the boat as practical. Fair winds!
  18. John: Nice boat! Best seat cushion I have found is a Therm-A-Rest Trail Cushion. Easy on the anatomy and keeps your center-of-gravity low. Put some self-adhesive velcro on your floor boards and on the cushion and you're ready to go. To get the velcro to stick well to the cushion, some contact cement is first required on the cushion. To give credit where due, this method is used by Pygmy Boats. Fair winds!
  19. I think that's a fine-looking boat and I'm not surprised that it sails well. Here in New Jersey, we call that a garvey. The first picture below is the plan for a small garvey from Howard Chapelle's classic book American Small Sailing Craft. Chapelle calls it an "(o)ld garvey box, substitute for a sneak box." He took the lines from a boat in Tuckerton, NJ. The New Jersey Friends of Clearwater have a traditionally-built, 26-foot, two-masted garvey based on another Tuckerton boat. Jim Michalak designed a plywood version called "Sneakerbox." The photos are of a model. The model differs from Michalak's design in the deck construction and in the spritsail. Michalak's design included a lateen sail as shown in the last picture. Plans are available on the Duckworks website. Fair winds!
  20. Timothy: Nice boat! But the Safety Committee must comment on your video. Glad to see you wearing a well-fitting PFD. I don't know where you're located, but by the look of the trees you're pretty far north. If so, water temperature is pretty low, despite the marvelous air temperature. There's an old (and accurate) saying in the kayaking community that you should dress for immersion. In other words, if you end up swimming in cold water with a cotton tee shirt you might not make it back. It's also been said that when the water is cold, your PFD is mainly useful for recovering the body. Please check out the information at http://www.coldwatersafety.org. Fair winds, Andy
  21. I'm afraid that I have too many boats (bikes too, but that's another story) and need to reduce the fleet. Vorpal is an excellent pulling boat, light and easy to car top. Check out the description of the Robote design under 'Michalak" in the "plans" section of the Duckworks online store. She is built to Jim Michalak's plan with a few tweaks for aesthetics (breasthook, quarter knees, curvy thwarts) and for rowing comfort (removable seats with ergonometric shape). Her side planks are fine, but the bottom planks need a coat of epoxy and fiberglass. I started to wood the bottom in preparation, but other activities and projects intervened. It would be a straightforward job and the boat would be good for many more years. Vorpal is set up for solo rowing (center seat) or for a rower (forward seat) and a passenger (stern sheets). Two people can row all day by taking turns. And the "passenger" can steer with a paddle so that the rower never has to look over their shoulder. One year at the Mid-Atlantic Small Craft Festival at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum, my wife and I won the "mixed doubles" category of the rowing and paddling race, with my wife paddling and me rowing. We are located in Bergen County NJ.
  22. Martin: Thanks for the comprehensive report. I had daydreamed a bit about building a Flyfisher. I am fond of pulling boats but not as fond of trailers and the costs and hassles they involve. The design reminds me of an Irish Currach. Could you post some pictures for us? Did you weigh the boat? Too bad you ran out of boating weather this year, but please report back when you get the boat into the Sound. Where on the Sound are you located? Fair winds, Andy
  23. Nashrows: Do as Hawgster says, but you'll find the website easier if you search for "yostwerks." I've paddled a Ravenswood for a few years and find it very handy in open water. Of course, "quickness and maneuverability" are relative terms. The Ravenswood wants to go straight, but with leaning and paddling technique will go where you want. Picture is of New York Harbor just south of Liberty Island. We accompanied swimmers to Manhattan. On the trip back (without swimmers), a north breeze started to build up some swells. It was exciting surfing the swells and avoiding tugs, ferries, and pleasure boats. For reference in looking at how the boat is trimmed, I am 5'-11" and 175 pounds. Have fun!
  24. John: Nice boat! And in the video, you had it at hull speed with a full stern wave. I couldn't help notice, however, that your entrance and exit were a bit precarious. Attached video shows how to use your paddle as an outrigger (usually on the beach side) for less precariousness. Simply keep your weight slightly to the side where the paddle is extended. Fair winds! IMG_8632.mov
  25. While there are rare couples that paddle well together, tandem boats are called "divorce boats" for good reason. Decades ago, I bought my first canoe from a woman who was recently divorced. He really liked boating. She did not. One of the joys of solo kayaking or canoeing is the feeling of controlling your own boat. And you can paddle along with other folks, each in their own boat. Also remember that primary stability is just that. Secondary stability is what actually increases the probability of avoiding a swim. Fair winds!
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