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andy00 last won the day on September 5 2019

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About andy00

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  1. If you want to learn all about it, see "USDA, Forest Service Handbook No. 125, Bending Solid Wood to Form, 1957." See link below: https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/usda/ah125.pdf
  2. Uncle Frosty: Nice! So give us a review; how does she paddle compared to other boats you've paddled? Regarding the position of a bow seat, serious canoes sometimes have a bow seat that adjusts fore-and-aft to trim the boat to account for the weights of the stern paddler, the bow paddler, and any gear. They are sometimes known as "slider seats." See example below. Paddle on!
  3. All of these are outboard boats, but you may want to check them out anyway. From Jim Michalak: 1) Brucesboat and 2) Dorado. From the great Phil Bolger: 1) Slicer, 2) Fisherman's Launch, and 3) Sharpshooter. Have fun.
  4. Digger: Nice lookin' boat! Some questions on the job for future reference: - What type of paint was original? - How did you prepare the surface for repaint? - What type of paint did you use for repaint? - Did the skin seem thicker, less flexible, or in any way different after? Thanks, Andy
  5. Matt: First check the inside dimensions of your centerboard trunk. The width of the trunk will define the maximum thickness of the centerboard. The board should be thin enough to move easily in the trunk and not get hung up if it swells of warps a bit. Choice of materials comes down to three: wood, plywood, or aluminum. If you live anywhere near northeast New Jersey, I have an aluminum board that you could have. But I can't recommend it. When the wind is light and you're rolling some, it sounds like a bell buoy. Plywood may sound easier than wood at first, but as Pete Culler points out in his marvelous book "Skiffs and Schooners," the edges of plywood tend to splinter, the edges must be sealed, and use of fastenings in the end grain is problematic. Then you think about fiberglassing it, which has a whole other set of tasks. I replaced the aluminum centerboard in my Sea Bright Skiff with one made of quarter-sawn fir stair treads. It's lasted over 40 years. There are lots of books about boatbuilding, but check out "Boat-building" by Howard Chappelle and "Building Classic Small Craft" by John Gardner. Have fun, Andy
  6. Wally: What a good grandpa you are! I believe that it would be very difficult to roll a boat with a beam of 36 inches. Has your granddaughter practiced rolling narrower boats? In any case she could certainly use a sprayskirt to keep water off her lap, but she would likely have to settle for a wet exit in case of capsize. If she is not expert at a wet exit, she should practice that under calm conditions, including popping off the spray skirt. And here is a word from the voice of experience: "Make sure that the strap at the bow of your spray skirt is on the outside." Another thought: Depending on the conditions of the waterways where she will be paddling, a Ravenswood Low Volume may be a better boat. Many, if not most, kayakers start out with wide, short recreational boats and, with a little experience, switch to a narrower, longer, and faster model. Have fun, Andy
  7. Also, it is easier to loft directly on plywood. It saves having to cut out posterboard and trace onto plywood.
  8. Marty: Hirilonde speaks truth. All wood absorbs water, gives up water, and changes shape as a result. As it absorbs water, wood expands across the grain. Warping happens when the structure of the wood fibers in the board have some asymmetric properties. Thin cypress stringers will have little tendency to move laterally and that movement will be limited by how they are integrated into the structure of the kayak. As far as "sealing," there really isn't such a thing. You can limit the rate of water moving into and out of wood by application of a coating, but you can't stop it. Even wood fully encapsulated with epoxy resin takes up water, but at a slow rate. Bottom line is don't use Kilz because 1) it won't provide any benefit, 2) it will cost money, 3) application will cost you time, and 4) you'll have a funny-looking white frame (of course, aesthetic opinions may vary). I'm jealous about your access to cypress. It is a wonderful wood to work with and can make a nice, light boat. Have fun!
  9. Walter: Skin-on-frame and standable is a tough combination, but take a look at Jeff Horton's book "More Fuselage Frame Boats." There are offsets for "Fly Fisher," which is a pulling skiff with a transom. LOA 13.5' Beam 4.0'. Good fishing, Andy
  10. I carry my Ravenswood on a Thule rack with pads and "Stackers," which fold down when not in use. Straps to the rack go fore and aft of the coaming. Bow line is belayed to a 1" strap that is attached under the hood by a convenient, pre-existing bolt. Stern line is belayed to a tow loop under the rear bumper. See pics.
  11. Ben: Paddling took place on a reservoir. Maybe 20 entrants. There was a little wind, but the course was out and back, upwind then downwind. One lap was 5K, two laps 10K. For 5K, times ranged from 34:45 (kayak over 14 feet) to 48:08 (kayak up to 14 feet). Times for 10K included 55:43 (tandem outrigger canoe), 1:17:28 (single flatwater racing canoe), 1:28:18 (tandem kayak), and 1:31:30 (kayak to 14 feet). A good time was had by all.
  12. On the Kudzu Craft website, Jeff says that the Ravenswood model is a fast cruiser with good performance in the range of 3 to 4.5 mph; however, resistance increases dramatically at 5 mph. I believe he got that right. I paddled in a 5K race on Sunday in my Ravenswood and finished in 41:02. Doing the math, this represents a mean speed of 4.5 mph. Jeff, that's good hydrodynamic engineering! Below is a photo of my boat from a day of more relaxed paddling.
  13. Or, do it the easy way and drive screws from the top. I think that the screw heads look fine. Photos are of my Ravenswood.
  14. Dear Mr. Even-Keeled: That's a lovely model! I've made models myself to see what a boat looks like in 3D; however, none of them were skin-on-frame. I have to wonder, tho, doesn't a 1/4 scale model of a SOF boat cost almost as much in time and material as a full-size one? Fair winds, Andy
  15. Gunwales of a birch bark canoe are constructed of an outwale and an inwale with the birchbark sandwiched between. A cap is applied on top and then the assembly is lashed together. Lashings are visible in the photo of the birchbark canoe above. Scantlings for a typical 16' canoe might be 1" X 1" for the inwale, 1/4" X 1" for the outwale, and 1/4" X 1-1/2" for the cap. These members were often tapered to be smaller toward the ends of the boat, which is common for longitudinal members on many types of small boats for both structural and aesthetic reasons. Using three members, bending them to the desired curve, then lashing them into a single piece has advantages over attempting to get a single piece of wood to conform. It looks like Punta's method is similar to the traditional approach for birchbark canoes. Nice job, Punta! (Source: The Bark Canoes and Skin Boats of North America, Edwin Tappan Adney and Howard I. Chapelle, Smithsonian Institution, 1964.)
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