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andy00 last won the day on November 28

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  1. Karin: Take a look at yostwerks.org. There is information about building folding kayaks with PVC skins. Fair winds, Andy
  2. Nice! Lucky kid! Come spring, try and get us a review of how the kid likes paddling it.
  3. In regard to facing forward, peapods were often rowed that way in part to provide a better view of the rocks when working lobster pots. However, it was done standing. Another advantage is the power available from leaning into the oars. Usually, extended oarlocks were used to improve the geometry. In regard to moving a mast to make room to row, why not stow the mast sticking out over the bow or stern in lieu of re-stepping it? Even with a tight furl, a mast creates significant drag, which is okay if you're rowing downwind but not so much otherwise. My usual practice with my spritsail-rigged Sea Bright skiff is to unstep the mast unless I'm rowing a short distance. Fair winds!
  4. Get ahold of a copy of Phil Bolger's book 100 Small Boat Rigs. He devotes only one page to the Gunter rig, but it's a fascinating and useful read including the other 99 rigs. As Phil points out, the main object of the rig is to set a tall sail on a short mast. Having owned a boat with a gunter rig (Cape Dory 14) and others with sprit rigs, I found that to be a solution without a problem. Longer spars in a shorter boat can be stowed sticking out over the bow or the stern. An exception may be where a small boat is stowed on the deck of a larger craft and you want all the gear of the tender out of the way. The challenge with the Cape Dory 14 was to keep the gunter yard in the yoke at the masthead, which may be a feature unique to that boat, when it was blowing up a bit. That required the halyard be set very tight. Also, the spars (mast, yard, and boom) and sail were unwieldy and difficult to stow when you popped the mast out of its step when you wanted to row. If I was starting from scratch with an Acorn Skiff, I would fit it with a spritsail or a leg-o'-mutton with a sprit boom. The latter is basically the same as the Gunter by Oughtred but with a mast instead of the mast/yard combination. In any case, I'm sure you'll have fun messing around with the boat. Fair winds!
  5. Peter: Thanks for posting. You might consider using hard cord instead of bungees for parts of your deck rigging. Bungees are great for holding stuff, but I found them to be too stretchy for paddle float re-entry. I switched to hard cord with toggles in native style for a more solid arrangement. I don't have perimeter lines, but I suspect that hard cord would also be better for that application. Attached pictures of my Ravenswood show the arrangement aft of the cockpit and also the arrangement forward, which uses both bungees and hard cord. Both sides forward have bungees for stowing a water bottle, a pump, etc. The middle section has hard cord for holding a paddle as an stabilizing outrigger while attaching a spray skirt and (on occasion) napping. Fair winds!
  6. Scott: I agree with Peter: Ravenswood LV. I think that a paddler weighing 140 pounds would be happiest with that. The boat might feel a little tiddly at first but, with a little practice, it will feel more controllable and faster than a bigger Ravenswood. Check out the picture of Peter (210 pounds) in his "launches" post and the attached photo of me (175 pounds), both in our Ravenswoods. Fair winds!
  7. Nice boat! And a beautiful place to paddle. Thanks for posting.
  8. Looking good! That rounded stern was a pain but it does look cool. Throw some paint on that boat, get it in the water, and report back on how it paddles!
  9. Thanks for posting Dave. Whatever gets you on the water is okay. The building method has a lot in common with native construction except for PVC instead of wood and polyethylene instead of seal skin.
  10. Jacobs: If I was to guess, the horizontal wrinkle in your middle photo suggests that you're asking too much of the textile in wrapping it around and under the edge of the gunwale. You might have to either 1) live with the wrinkle (you may be able to tuck it under the edge of the gunwale where it will be less noticeable)* or 2) fold the wrinkle and stitch it up, or 3) slit along the wrinkle and sew it up, or 4) staple it under the gunwale. Since I'm not there to tug and pinch, please take my comments with several grains of salt. Fair winds, Andy *after it's painted, probably no one but you and Steve would ever notice
  11. Shridhar: Go for it! In the words the great boat designer and builder Pete Culler "Experience starts when you begin." You have already received some valuable advice on this forum. Another good source is yostwerks.com. Make sure to let us know how you're doing and have fun!
  12. This week, we drove from north Jersey to Lake Placid, almost 300 miles and mostly at 65 to 70 mph. All arrived intact. There were some gusty sections and the boat moves around a bit, but remember that SOF boats aren't made to be too rigid. Picture shows me giving the grandson a ride.
  13. Here's how my Ravenswood travels: Thule roof rack with "Stacker" and surf pads. Two straps, one at front of the coaming and one at the rear. Bow line attaches to a strap that is held by a bolt under the hood. Stern line attaches to the hook ring on the trailer hitch.
  14. Hal: Nice boats! The trick to getting into and out of them is to place your paddle behind the cockpit and use it as an outrigger, keeping your weight on the paddle side. This can be done in just a few inches of water at a beach or off a float. Video is attached. You can find more elegant videos on YouTube. Fair winds! IMG_8632.mov
  15. One little tweak that I found useful: use a small piece of wood with a rectangular cross section in lieu of a dowel (maybe 1/2" X 1"). It's easier to hold because it doesn't want to twist as much. Have fun!
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