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andy00 last won the day on September 25 2020

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  1. Uncle Wheezy: Looks great! For tips on getting in and out dry, go to YouTube and search for "How to Get Into and Out of a Kayak Smoothly." Have fun!
  2. Cousin Kunzie: Nice! Please let us in on some particulars: materials, construction methods, issues during construction, deviations from design, etc. Also, we'll need some pics and/or videos on the water. Fair winds!
  3. "There are only two colors to paint a boat, black and white, and only a fool would paint a boat black." - Nathanael G. Herreshoff (My Ravenswood is tan) Have fun!
  4. Cousin Sailormon: That's an interesting design concept. The core question is whether the flex experienced with the standard design is, in fact, a problem. There will always be some flex in a boat, even with your stiffening modification, so how much is acceptable? Some structures need to be quite rigid to fulfill their design requirements. Others require more flexibility. What degree of flexibility is optimum for a kayak? It is likely that flexibility improves hydrodynamics up to some point. To me, it feels a bit like a solution looking for a problem. I built and paddle a Ravenswood, which is 15.5 feet, not one of Jeff's longer boats. I can feel it flex, especially when there is chop of a certain size, but it doesn't constitute any sort of problem. If I were building a longer boat, I would pay attention to the type of the wood I used (both species and individual sticks), scantlings, and the grain (straight with minimum runouts). Fair winds!
  5. This is only a guess, but this may be the same phenomenon that resulted in the addition of dimples to golf balls. The dimples create a thin layer of turbulent flow on the surface of the golf ball. The air outside that layer then moves with linear flow for a greater distance along the ball than it otherwise would, resulting in reduced drag.
  6. Cousin Jacobs: Looks nice! Please report back with further progress, ideally, before another 10 years go by. Fair winds!
  7. Hbrew: Regarding your knees hitting the deck beams, you can (obviously) modify the boat and/or (not as obviously) modify you. Try sitting on the floor while watching TV, instead of sitting in a chair. Try to keep your knees lower and your back straighter (sit tall). Gradually, you'll be able to sit that way longer and paddle stronger. Fair winds!
  8. andy00


    Wally: For a better response to your questions, move your post over to the Kudzu Craft Forum. I hope this project proves less dangerous than the martin house. Have fun!
  9. As a practical matter, the characteristics of the species of wood you choose, as well as the characteristics of the particular board you choose, will be at least as important as the difference of 1/8" in the scantlings. Choose boards of the best wood readily available and cut stringers with the straightest grain, fewest knots, and least runout. Don't overthink dimensions.
  10. Google "duck punt." These traditional British boats are sailed and are pretty similar to pirogues. Also check out Phil Bolger's "Teal" design.
  11. Steve: Sorry. Vorpal has left for a new home. There were additional posts on this thread documenting that but those posts seemed to have disappeared. I recommend that you go ahead a build a Robote. It will go together quickly and provide excellent rowing performance. I'll be happy to share whatever tips and photos that might help you with the build. Feel free to send me a private message. Fair winds for 2021, Andy
  12. Daniel: Remember that there are two reasons for floor boards in a skin-frame boat: 1) to keep pressure from feet and/or butt off the inside of the skin, and 2) to keep feet and butt out of the bilge water. Having some bilge water is inevitable. Many small, wooden paddling and rowing craft have floor boards as well, but for those, usually only reason number 2 applies. Those floor boards often have an opening at a low spot where you can bail or use a sponge. As far as letting your heels touch the skin, I think that's exactly where they should be. Any sort of floor board will move your heels higher. For comfort, ergonomics, and stability, you want to be as low in the boat as practical. Fair winds!
  13. John: Nice boat! Best seat cushion I have found is a Therm-A-Rest Trail Cushion. Easy on the anatomy and keeps your center-of-gravity low. Put some self-adhesive velcro on your floor boards and on the cushion and you're ready to go. To get the velcro to stick well to the cushion, some contact cement is first required on the cushion. To give credit where due, this method is used by Pygmy Boats. Fair winds!
  14. I think that's a fine-looking boat and I'm not surprised that it sails well. Here in New Jersey, we call that a garvey. The first picture below is the plan for a small garvey from Howard Chapelle's classic book American Small Sailing Craft. Chapelle calls it an "(o)ld garvey box, substitute for a sneak box." He took the lines from a boat in Tuckerton, NJ. The New Jersey Friends of Clearwater have a traditionally-built, 26-foot, two-masted garvey based on another Tuckerton boat. Jim Michalak designed a plywood version called "Sneakerbox." The photos are of a model. The model differs from Michalak's design in the deck construction and in the spritsail. Michalak's design included a lateen sail as shown in the last picture. Plans are available on the Duckworks website. Fair winds!
  15. Timothy: Nice boat! But the Safety Committee must comment on your video. Glad to see you wearing a well-fitting PFD. I don't know where you're located, but by the look of the trees you're pretty far north. If so, water temperature is pretty low, despite the marvelous air temperature. There's an old (and accurate) saying in the kayaking community that you should dress for immersion. In other words, if you end up swimming in cold water with a cotton tee shirt you might not make it back. It's also been said that when the water is cold, your PFD is mainly useful for recovering the body. Please check out the information at http://www.coldwatersafety.org. Fair winds, Andy
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