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andy00

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andy00 last won the day on May 19

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  1. James: A router will work fine on the frames, but you can go lower tech with some combination of a Shinto saw rasp, a rotary rasp chucked in your drill, and a half-round rasp. It may take more time but will cost less* and be safer (for both you and the frames). Have fun! *of course, it may be difficult to pass up an excuse to buy a new tool
  2. Some folks keep logs of their projects including time spent. I can understand the urge to quantify, but I build boats, build model boats, carve decoys, and rebuild bicycles for the fun of it. When I worked as an engineer, I had to keep track of time spent for billing. It was not fun. When people ask me how much time I spent on a project, I usually reply "How much time did you spend watching TV?" Having said that, I agree with Scott that a SOF kayak goes together quicker than a stitch-and-glue kayak, based on my experience. Another difference is that almost all tasks on a SOF boat can be done in small time periods. For example, you can take 15 minutes to cut out one frame. You can mount one frame on the strong back. You can sew one foot of the skin seam. Of course, it's likely that you'll work for much longer periods (time flies when you're having fun), but you can do bits here and there. In contrast, there are major tasks on a stitch-and-glue boat that cannot be interrupted. These require mixing epoxy and applying it all at once. Stitch-and-glue boatbuilding is noisier (lots of sanding), smellier (epoxy), dustier (again sanding), and messier (again epoxy). I find SOF boatbuilding more fun. James, I hope you have fun building (and paddling).
  3. Yes, very nice boat! And a nice Greenland paddle. So, what are you sitting on? Can't see in the photos. Oh, I just received a message from the Safety Committee: Remember to always wear your PFD. Fair winds, Andy
  4. The two partial frames in the cockpit are part of Jeff's design innovation that he calls "comfort frame." Those frames provide extra support between the keel and the chines so that the frame at the front end of the cockpit extends down only to the chines and not across the bottom between the chines and the keel. That eliminates that part of the frame that can rub the backs of your legs as you paddle.
  5. Well done and well documented! In regard to the coaming, let me share how I fitted the plywood coaming on my Ravenswood. I installed screws from the top, as you can see in the photo. You're right that installing screws from the bottom may look better but is a lot harder. To obtain the best purchase in the lower ring of the coaming, I used stainless steel screws that were a little long (1/16" or 1/8") and ground off the tips. Where the rolled-up seam of the skin went between the rings, I cut grooves in the fore and after ends of the upper ring so that the rings fit snug against each other. I pulled the edges of the skin over the lower ring and stapled it with stainless steel or Monel staples. Before attaching the upper ring, I applied Lexel sealant to the lower ring. After tightening the screws, I trimmed the excess skin flush with the inside of the coaming. In the hope of inspiring you in the completion of your project, I've also attached a photo of my boat on a beach on the Hudson River about 10 miles north of New York City. Fair winds on your first paddle!
  6. That's a very thorough presentation of construction materials. Another method of skinning is presented on yostwerks.org (which is full of great information regarding skin on frame boats). That method is 18-ounce "Coverlight" PVC glued up with HH-66 vinyl cement. I have to experience with this method, but it sounds interesting. Have fun!
  7. Jeff gets it right: "It just depends on the boat." The weight of the paddler is most important because that effects the underwater shape of the boat. However, the height of the paddler's center of gravity is also significant. The CG is affected by the height of the seat and the CG of the paddler's body (women tend to have lower CG's than men). The higher the CG, the more tiddly the boat will be. But remember that stability is just one aspect of a boat's overall character. Any design is a compromise of top speed, long range speed, tracking, agility, initial stability, secondary stability, and so forth. It just depends on what you want the boat to do. Fair winds!
  8. Jeff: For moving, you need a three-hole bidarka. Fair winds!
  9. Brother Walter: For my Ravenswood, I installed a pair of braces between the bottom piece of the plywood coaming and the sheer stringers to stiffen things up (see pics below). Then I pulled the skin, which was already fastened elsewhere, over the bottom piece and stapled it in place using Monel staples. Then I attached the rest of the coaming with stainless steel screws. Then I cut off the excess skin from the inside of the cockpit. Almost forgot; at some point after initial construction, I removed the top section and put some caulking on and put it back together to solve some seepage. For more pics and ideas, see yostwerks.org. Have fun! Andy
  10. Rex: Yes, I really like using (and making) native-style paddles. You can experiment and find what works best for your body, boat, and style of paddling. My favorite is a West Geenland/Aleut hybrid, which is the black paddle with red trim in the photo. Fair winds, Andy
  11. Rex: Your curlew looks nice and it sounds like you move along quickly. You write that you have a low COG with a thin trail seat, but in the photo you look quite high in the boat. Are your floorboards on the underside of the frames per Jeff's usual design practice? How thick are the floorboards? Is there anything between the boards and the trail seat? For contrast, the attached photo shows me in my Ravenswood. There appears to be less of me above the boat. I believe the dimensions of the two boats are similar. I'm about 5'-11" tall. Fair winds, Andy
  12. Will: In regard to "lean it over until the gunwale dipped in the water." Get on Youtube and search "sculling brace." You'll find a number of helpful videos. You'll need a sprayskirt if you want to do more of that sort of thing. If you're looking for a winter project, I'd also recommend making yourself a Greenland style paddle. I prefer them for bracing and for paddling in general. As far as performance, Jeff categorizes the Curlew and the Ravenswood as "fast cruisers." I think that is a good description. When paddling with club groups, my Ravenswood is among the fastest and can keep up with longer boats. I've done some 5K and 10K races and the only boats that blow by me are specialty racing kayaks (about 19 feet long and 19 inches beam) and outrigger canoes. On his website, Jeff provides some good thoughts on design considerations and boat speed. Fair winds, Andy
  13. Will: Very nice! Along with the photos that Jeff requested, please provide a performance review. As far as stability, make sure you are sitting as near the floor as practical. I use a Therm-a-rest Trail Seat, which is quite thin, on the floor boards of my Ravenswood. Some velcro on the bottom keeps things in place. To reduce the flexibility of the plywood coaming on my boat, I epoxied in a brace on each side between the coaming and the sheer stringer (see pics below). For more pictures of that kind of brace, see yostwerks.org (a very interesting and useful website). Fair winds, Andy
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