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cprinos

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Everything posted by cprinos

  1. Boulter is great.... I always get a delivery guy that has great stories about his time as a lobsterman. Scarfing those first panels makes it official !
  2. Good sequence and nice job w/ the Amanda! I saw the one Graham had brought to the WoodenBoat show a couple of years ago, looks like a fun little boat. From your pics it looks like you might be able to hoist your sail a bit higher. That stinks about the epoxy reaction.... but great that you were able to manage it enough that you didn't have to stop your first build. Maybe a traditionally built boat is in your future
  3. for filleting applications, filler density affects the recommended fillet radius (see p. 103 of http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/HowTo-Publications/GougeonBook%20061205.pdf )... so wood flour fillets need a larger radius vs silica. Mixing cellofill in wood flour has the same effect as mixing in silica --- it tends to make the the fillet slurry a little smoother than just wood flour alone. I did some test joints as described in that section of the gougeon book using same size fillets for silica and cellofill and they both had correct failure modes (e.g. broke in the wood, not the fillet). I didn't try to find the absolute minimum fillet size for each....I imagine the silica would allow the smallest radius.
  4. I'm using it for my cs17. I used silica for my panel scarfs because I had ordered some with my epoxy and I didn't want to change what I was used to for the very first glue ups in the boat, but after that I've only been using the cellofill. I figure it takes about 2/3, maybe less to thicken epoxy compared to cabosil. It is also not as billowy as cabosil and doesn't fly all over at the slightest provocation. I've used it for all other gluing operations including laminations and have no complaints. My shop (garage) is connected to my house, so I figured the fewer toxic things I can employ the better. I did not do any kind of extensive testing, but I did do a simple joint failure test with both at the beginning and couldn't tell any difference.
  5. I just cut the same slope into both thicknesses and when scarfing made sure that the outside of the panel (part that will be the outside of hull) was lined up. On the inside then there will be a small ramp, but you can even that out w/ epoxy. On my boat I used fiberglass on the inside portion of the 1/4 panels instead of the stiffening battens and that was enough to hide the transition.
  6. PM me if you want to take a look at an in-progress build (link to my thread is below).
  7. This is for a sea pearl, yeah? Can't help with you location question, but do you have any pics of the masts? Would be curious how much they cost.
  8. folks --- I'm working on the seat tank interiors: taping the inside & sealing the wood. Looking at the plans, I just realized I didn't put in the seat drain that goes near the seat's bulkhead. I'm wondering how effective these drains are? Anyone done w/o them and regretted due to pooling on the seat tops? I can still put them in, just trying to figure out if it's something worth bothering with.
  9. those PVC pipe clamps a pretty good in the bang-for-your-buck department. These things on the other hand: are almost useless. The jaws flex so much and have such large ratchets, you can't control clamping pressure, and when there closed you can never quickly tell which way the quick release trigger goes. I do love the Irwin one-handed bar clamps/spreaders (have 'em in all sizes), but wouldn't by any more of these handi-clamps. I don't know if the metal ones are any better, but am no rush to try based on what I've seen.
  10. Recent work has been scribing, trimming, and fitting the various top and side panels for the seats. Slowly working through my stock of full ply sheets, the remaining ones will be for the decks. Here is the forward section -- the center overlap was used to mark the cut. and then that was trimmed to the line for the final fit. The front part of the seat sides has a smaller panel. Shown below, I'm placing one for the final scribing. Instead of making a template from scratch for the starboard side, I decided to see how close the port side would be to a good fit. In theory they should be the same, but I was expecting some differences to have crept into the build.... to my surprise the panel fit both locations exactly, so I used it as a pattern for it's sibling panel. plans call for a squared opening at the forward section of the seats, but I will put a bit of curve in the corner. Final trimming for this part is going to wait until I am further along and fitting the centerboard trunk in place. After dry-fitting all of the seat panels, I had some more time, but not enough to do a full glue-up of any seat pieces, so I started playing with positioning of the side deck carlin. I'm still not sure I've got the curve I want here, I'll continue to fiddle a bit. One thing I think I will do is give the side decks a wee bit more width for hiking, but will balance it against eating up too much of seating space Today I whipped up some thickened epoxy for the glue up of one set of side panels. It was raining & cool here today... I did a 50/50 mix of slow & fast hardener for this one. The glue up took nearly my full compliment of clamps, so that will have to be all for now. Once that firms up a bit, I'll move to starboard seats.
  11. cool deck. Couldn't tell from the photo--did you decide to run that mast drain to the cockpit or through the hull?
  12. moving through some of the framing, here is what the aft deck section is looking like. The fillets were cell-o-fil only, no wood flour. They sagged on me as I didn't quite get them thick enough, but the deck top will hide all that in good time. I don't often have the boat half-way out of the garage, so it allowed me to get a shot of the bow as well (it's usually up against the wall): Instead of working on the side deck framing, I decided to start fitting the seat tops and sides. At first I was going to see if I could try to hold a partial sheet in place to scribe the fit--not really practical. Then I thought about hot gluing some thin battens to form a template (now where did that hot glue gun go?). In the end I marked of two foot intervals on the seat edge frame, then used a story stick to get the heights at each position. I transfered these to the full size ply sheets and then used my long batten to connect the dots. This worked pretty well, only some minor trimming with a block plane. I'm not finished yet, but here are a couple of initial pieces, the starboard aft seat side, and the port aft seat top. And overall progress so far:
  13. Thanks Wes. A seat over the centerboard is an interesting idea-- could probably figure a way to stow that under the forward deck too. Based on what you say I'll wait on the oar lock blocking until I can get in the boat and test out a few spots. Actually I wonder at what stage you guys started working "in" the boat instead of outside reaching in. Structurally I would guess its all right to do so at this point, but I probably won't push my luck on the strong back setup. I continue to slowly poke along with some of the interior, deck, and seat framing. I may get to fitting the seat side panels this weekend.
  14. For the time and effort put into the boat, I don't think you will regret spending a bit extra for good ply when she is ready to launch. Keep us posted on how your build goes!
  15. Question for any of you that put in a second set of oarlocks... where did you position them? As I'm adding the deck framing, I will reinforce for the standard oar lock position, but I'm thinking I'm rarely going to use that set (the main mast will be in the thwart) and was thinking about doing another set further forward.
  16. Great pictures, nice job on the build. Nice to see that you got the whole family involved too! She looks good under sail.... but I think I have to quibble with the caption "general work shop chaos" that goes with this one: I could spend the weekend cleaning up and not get my workspace down to this level of chaos
  17. PAR gets the credit for convincing me to give the curved transom a shot with some simple instructions and pictures he sent me last year. I think I am going to try to finish it bright--when I cut out the ply I tried to select a section of the sheet with a nice grain pattern. It's mostly horizontal oriented grain without too much of the rotary cut appearance. PAR mentions a faced veneer; I thought about that too for a flat sawn look but not sure I will go to the trouble. Painting along the edge as suggested sounds like a good idea when the time comes.
  18. WoodenBoat #171 had a small article on this diagramming three variations (http://www.woodenboa...denboat_151-180) It's kind of like rigging a clothes line with the boat in the middle where one end is a block at shore; the other end is a block that is either an anchored block, a block attached to a mooring buoy (for more bottom clearance), or a block attached to another anchored boat. See also an example at http://gisamateur.bl...?q=Anchor video And the related thread: http://forum.woodenb...p-of-the-season
  19. Thanks Graham, I appreciate it. It's been a fun build so far, there havent' been too many head-scratchers that your plans have not answered in one of the sheets.
  20. I fit the laminated deck beam into place Then I started milling some more pieces for framing the seats, king plank (not shown), and the aft bulkhead beam (below). One thing that has been bugging me for a bit is that I had left the transom untrimmed at the top, which made it kind of hard to properly visualize how that end of the boat was going to shape up. i had been putting it off because I've built a curved transom which complicated transferring the curve of the decking. Today I went ahead and traced the deck beam curves onto a scrap piece of 4mm and then used that to help transfer curve onto the transom. With the top of the transom trimmed, it is easier to see the effect of the transom curve, especially in comparison to the [flat] aft bulkhead. When I first did the transom curve I was worried that it was too subtle to even be noticeable, but now that it's trimmed I think it will provide a nice shape aft. In addition to the curve, there is a couple of additional degrees of rake that I'll have to take into account when working on the rudder.
  21. Jim,where is the vertical batten? I couldn't quite tell from the photos--did you go with the standard (negative roach) sails, or are the battens giving you a little more roach?
  22. NIce! -- love the look of the laced sails on the wooden masts. Your building thread has been a great source of info for me.... great to see the final result. chris
  23. cool sprits. What is the maximum spread of the wishbone? How much clearance on the sails?
  24. Ha... no problem Gordy. I had to go back and look to see what I wrote, couldn't remember if I did actually use a jig saw or not for the big panels. Your right the circ saw probably would have been quicker.
  25. I've thought about something similar with the deck after seeing some 'hybrid' kayaks (stitch & glue hulls w/ stripped topsides). How did you glass the underside of the strips?
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