ecgossett

Back in Us. After helicopter almost capsized us at start line (read the news), we started race reefed. Maybe running we should have unreefed, but we hit 9knots reefs and dug bow in a couple of times. Went west before shipping lane convergence zone we where told to avoid. About the time we started north, wind died for a couple hours.. a card game out two later, we got some wind and made it to Victoria. Coming back today was rough, accidently cursed on radio while reporting position to vessel traffic, because it has gotten so rough at 32 knots of wind, we wanted to update our location. Mid broadcast, got slammed between waves, and sails kissed other wave with water coming over side.. We stayed pretty dry until motoring into the wind tunnel in the protected Anchorage at port Angeles. Water and spray constantly over bow and dripping.

Back in Us. After helicopter almost capsized us at start line (read the news), we started race reefed. Maybe running we should have unreefed, but we hit 9knots reefs and dug bow in a couple of times. Went west before shipping lane convergence zone we where told to avoid. About the time we started north, wind died for a couple hours.. a card game out two later, we got some wind and made it to Victoria. Coming back today was rough, accidently cursed on radio while reporting position to vessel traffic, because it has gotten so rough at 32 knots of wind, we wanted to update our location. Mid broadcast, got slammed between waves, and sails kissed other wave with water coming over side.. We stayed pretty dry until motoring into the wind tunnel in the protected Anchorage at port Angeles. Water and spray constantly over bow and dripping.

Tent worked, reefing systems excelled, we beat the Scamp including a one on one rowing, and dodger dodger kept boat dry!

#Foggysailing on Twitter or Facebook. Nice warm summer day. Time for a lineless tan

Dodger, tent, and improved tiller tamer are complete!! Boat goes a lot faster with my much improved centerboard and rudder. I faired, sanded, graphited, sanded etc. I attached a photo showing the tiller tamer.. We plan on purchasing a small SS s-hook and closing one end, to make removal faster then the carabiner. It's straight up bungee cord, and we tried a plastic/aluminum cleat the aluminum grabbed the bungee much easier.. No need to hook in a piece of rope to it. Having the big screw in hook right behind where I grab the tiller, versus further back means the tiller can turn harder, and less chance of scraping top of boat. Boat still doesn't ROW worth crap in HEAVY wind.. Once broadside to wind with board down, very hard to turn boat using forward rowing station, and rudder all the way over.

http://www.concept2.com/oars/related-products/oarlocks Great prices, comes with bushings to adjust blade angle into water, and provide your own pin.. I used half inch SS bolt 7 inches long. I will never have another bronze oarlock break.

Finished sanding foils, while wet with 320grit. Process was 4 coats of graphite epoxy with 80 grit in between. Then 120 grit, 220 wet, and 320 grit wet. Still a couple small areas of epoxy that could be a little flatter, and a few raised spots from filling in minor imperfections, and a couple of touches or primer showing through. However, I think I'm at the point of diminishing returns and will be skipping any more coats this time around. The other side is almost perfect!! The difference was I went to 120grit before applying the first coat of graphite epoxy.. It seems to have made everything easier for later sanding.

My 10' 4" hollow beachwood oars with douglas oar locks are awesome. I found some old sculling oars at the boatshop in need of repair, scrapped/bleached/glassed/epoxy tips, and reused for some awesome oars. I have tried a paid of 10-11' snap together oars with carbon fiber blades intended for whitewater rafting; my only complaint was they felt heavy when rowing, both where extremely durable and folded up great in the bottom of CS17 or trunk of my car. The curved spoon blades are the beachwood oars handle great moving the boat at 2.5knots and if I try hard 3.5knots.

This years Palooza had a Core Sound 15, 17 and Belhaven 19. Check out http://www.pocketyachters.com/ for photos! Next to the Scamp's which multiply like ducks, B&B designed boats where the biggest grouping from a designer at the festival. Thanks to Randy for taking down my sails, while I was performing a lobotomy on my outboard.

I got some very cheap "bright yellow" sunbrella at a Canvas Wholesaler in Jacksonville Fl a few years ago.

Started with a giant frame and cut it shorter, and took middle out.. For middle part took a 8" piece cut down the middle several times, and used a vice to make it into an insert to put the frame back together. Overall height is 13" above edge of forward deck.. For base I put blue tape 3/4" away from coaming to mark where the beam is. Once that was done I measured from bow on boat to each end of dodger. Marked on tape position. Then with Jenn on one side and both of us armed with tape measure, centered bases on lines exact same distance away from coaming. The one part not in the photo is I used masking tape to mark where the frame is on the pattern. You can also use permanent marker.. Around edges of fabric, we drew a line with the marker. It doesn't have the pretty curve of Jim's dodger, but I think it'll do to keep the cold Washington water off us.

And just now to illustrate my point about that water: Missing boater found dead, search continues for wife http://www.wjcl.com/news/local-local-news/coast-guard-searching-for-missing-boaters-off-georgia-coast/211369314/story

I spent a lot of time in Brunswick, on my boat(s) and the tall ship sv Peacemaker. The water between Jekyll and Cumberland island is considered pretty dangerous, because of the weird currents and big waves you can get.

My metal is cut for my dodger... I'll post photos later of how I cut the free SS bowes I was given and shortened the middle.. A couple of questions for the experts: The bottom of my sail gives me 16-18" of clearance off my forward deck. Sitting slouched in the boat my height is 33." from seat. However, the sail height from seat is 32".. How tall should I put the dodger????? Is one bow worth it and going for more of a windscreen then roof?

Another great feature of the Core sound's in WA State is in low tides I can still launch in the mud.. I pushed the boat out 20 feet with rope running to the kids on the dock, by the time I'd parked the boat was high and dry. We waited an hour until we had 6 inches of water and managed to get out. A little practice this weekend with my 8 year old and future racing partner driving.. Yes, she was screaming when we would burst to 6.4knots. I finally pulled the centerboard out after about 3 years, a few scratches from sand etc. The rope on the bottom held up great. My three year old sanded, and I used West System 310 micro fairing to make a nice coat to sand off. It will be smoother then when I originally built the boat. The tab with the pulley's has really taken the worst beating.. I've resanded and repainted several times in that area.. It just gets beat on with blocks, rope and people or gear bumping and kicking it.

I attached a photo. Having full bunk boards, makes it very comfortable sitting forward, especially in rough weather!

What do you guys want to know? I just got back from a 94 day northern sub patrol, and found out my teammate who was covering 1/2 the costs could no longer make it from DC. I thought smaller and am doing the first leg of the race again, and flying my father out. Everyone at beer table race meeting several years ago, wanted a version of Everglades Challenge. There was actually an attempt for a trial Orca WaterTribe challenge. Month before chief couldn't make it, and called everything off. This race was born out of need for a variety of boats due to water and conditions, meeting insurance requirements, yet fostering affordable innovation, and creativity. Some perceived rules no one liked with EC where changed; yet believe me there is a lot of red tape required, and unbelievable amount of information provided that is given to both countries cost guard, boarder control, and race bosses use for safety matrix.

I have an SOS bivy which I love.. I have been looking with envy at those goretex mil-spec bivy's. Currently I have a system based on Wes's (Roguepaddle.com) core sound 20's. Terry's system on my new tiller handle would work better and lenghten the shock core. I also need a slightly smaller eye bolt, because it interferes with turning rudder hard over. For those long nights or days, when teammate is sleeping, and I want to screw around with GPS in light winds, or have to adjust something, grab food/drink, I think a electronic autotiller that can be used could really help. I verified with Sailrite that he Shelterrite Vinyl Coated Polester really does glue together with the right glue, and is as strong or stronger then stitches (less chance of leaks). However, the Urethane Coated nylon cannon be glued to aft end of dodger, and will have to be stapled http://www.sailrite.com/Ripstop-White-1-9oz-60-Urethane-Coated.

Phil, do you have some good photos and description of your dodger? How high under the sail.. Did you rig any special downhauls to avoid having to go forward at all? How fast was it to get the dodger down? Could you see around it with no window? DO you think there should be some kind of aft dodger for the guy driving? Especially in cold northern water.

Dodger plans are following this idea: http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?193512-A-dodger-cuddy-tent-for-a-camping-rowboat Thinking about PVC instead of wood. Also, front will be 30mil vinyl instead of solid color.. I'm tying to figure out how to make the aft cockpit tent on that link work, and have some sort of foldable clear vinyl flap to come centerline about the mizzen mast, so the aft part doesn't fill with air.. Also, a laminiated wood strip over tiller to give it space to move and attach the tent to. Not sure if all this will make the boat to high a profile. The dodger I'm not worried about because it can be folder forward, and I plan on having rolled up fabric along the back edge that can unroll over person sleeping or cargo in high winds.

He's talked to Carla on the phone.

Small update: After getting with my crewmate for the race yesterday, and going over the boat, Bruce came up with a novel idea. Use 3M 4200, and caulk the forward completely hatch shut, leaving bungees underneath it to ensure it's secured. Under the forward overhang install a rectactangle 9" tall waterproof hatch from duck works. We might be able to get a 14" tall but I need to figure out how much swing room the hatch needs. Secondly we both think installing a 3rd mast position is an good idea (I need some help from the forum, I no longer have that sheet of plans), especially if a mast where to break in race. Third, neither of us wants to race and be dangerous, but we don't plan on stopping to sleep on beaches. Last, what do you guys think of graphite mixed with epoxy for bottom paint? Currently that is what I have, and the only thing I never did was wet sand the bottom, which is now a plan to increase speed. Bruce will be attending B&B yacht messabout in OCT, and could you guys please show him the following: 1) 3rd mast position. 2) Dodger and sleep ideas 3) ladders for reboarding 4) tiller tamer 5) and useful ideas from expedition boats. Oh we also intend on getting Alan nailed down on NACA foils, and what it would take to convert to a basket rudder with deeper foil, and a NACA centerboard, or at a minimum how much someone want to sell a nice CNC cut and weighed centerboard. Has anyone done NACA foils on there B&B?

I discussed it with Colin Angus of www.rowcruiser.com fame. I'm happy with the way the oars handle right now, really I think the boat needs to be more comfortable then open, and some type of pedal system would be perfect.

Call Carla, order the larger mast kit, with the larger flat topped sails with additional roach. The sail size was chosen so when a potential newbie takes out the boat in 15-20knot winds he won't capsize. Now that you've had the boat for a while go for the larger size. I will tell you with my new B&B sails I had to relearn how the boat handled. She initially seemed a lot more tender under sail.

I'm starting a new topic for the 2016 R2AK since I understand some other B&B owners are considering the race. I'll start by discussing the upgrades I'm working on for my CS17 MK1. 1) Pink hard foam under sides of decks, to help prevent water in the boat in case of a hard capsize. Also under forward deck. The foam will run all the way to seats, am figuring out how much I need to shave off near seats to keep a comfortable seating angle. Up near underside of deck will have 4 inches, going to about 1/2" at bottom. 2) Replacing my bunkboards with 1/2" pink foam laminated with Glass. I saw this as deck boards on another small boat and thought they are a great way to provide floation and insulation for sleeping. Would make each side in two parts that locks down, versus having a total of two bunkboards one on each side. I discovered it was a pain to pull up the bunkboard to get to stuff when sailing, especially when ropes got caught trying to put it back down. 3) Finding a suitable VHF antenna for mast, to plug into portable VHF to extend range. 4) Installing the 3rd mast position I would have never considered using... If a mast breaks I need a way to sail the boat. ensuring the main mast has an extra halard installed, might mean a type of jig could be rigged if either mast where to break. 5) Looking at a SS or PVC arch across by the mizzan mast, to attach canvas running to dodger which is also getting stalled. I need a way for crew to sleep. 6) Upgraded solar capabilities 7) Last but not least, I am looking at weight and room lost to put pink foam in the bottom of the boat to make the cockpit mostly self bailing (well by anderson self bailer). I would also mount some type of water storage on each side of centerboard to provide ballast and drinking water. Last weekend I tested out a mustang work suit of which I took two on the race. Amazing floation, however it let water in, and it is extremely bulky and hard to store. Drysuit with layers under is much better for the race.