Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About Chespearl

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Solomons, Maryland

Recent Profile Visitors

1,027 profile views
  1. CS 17 #191 build

    Par, Appreciate the insight. I will try to keep an eye on this as best I can. Cheers, Brian
  2. CS 17 #191 build

    Matt, Here's what I used in the bottom of the boat: https://www.amazon.com/BlackTip-Jetsports-traction-Sea-Doo-Footwells/dp/B00GC3JID4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1515090557&sr=8-1&keywords=blacktip+traction+pad I used the grey "wishbone" pattern stuff. It was easy to cut with a sharp utility knife on a piece of cardboard. The one 78" x 39" piece was plenty to do the bottom of the CS17. One slight irritation: the wishbone pattern on the piece I got was not straight with the sides of the piece. I worked with it and it looks fine.
  3. CS 17 #191 build

    Thanks guys! The rings around the main and mizen mast holes are cosmetic. I guess they give an additional inch of bury for the masts. Used a couple different size hole saws to cut them out of scrap mahogany. Did the vinegar and steel wool trick to darken them. They are epoxied around the mast tubes.
  4. CS 17 #191 build

    The last couple weeks ahead of the holidays were pretty busy, getting everything done that was necessary to get the boat out of the shop. Wet sanding and polishing the hull, touch-ups, lots of hardware installation. I put some self-adhesive "traction pad" material in the bilge. Looks good, feels nice on bare feet. Deck was done with KiwiGrip. All hardware bedded in butyl tape. Squeeze out still visible in photo. Yes, I like staring at the coamings... Installed the centerboard but actual rigging will be done later. This was my solution for a latch for the front hatch. Hinges are on the other side. These are 1/4 x 20 knurled stainless bolts that thread into stainless inserts in the hatch coaming. Yes, this will be tedious to open and secure, but I wanted something simple, totally secure underway, and low profile, i.e., would not catch any lines. Yes I have spares for when I drop them over the side... I put in two sets of oarlock sockets, fore and aft. The risers are mahogany and to make them match the coamings I soaked them overnight in vinegar and steel wool. It darkens the wood nicely. Then three coats of epoxy, varnish.... So 19 December was a big day. Not an official launch as I still have to finish the mast, rudder assembly, lots of rigging, put the name on, etc. So I will do an "official" launch when all that is done. But I did splash it and rowed it up the creek to my house. It is nice to have a crane and lots of friends. Note the holiday decorations on the lighthouse! She floats! These are nine foot oars and I had a pair of ten foot oars in the bilge. I tried them both on the row home. I think the nine foot oars are adequate and will be easier to stow. Here she is at her new home. I've used this floating dock in various configurations for various boats for 15 years now. Works very well. I hope all my fellow B&B forum members are having a good holiday and looking forward to a good 2018! Cheers, Brian
  5. CS17 #339 launched

    Congratulations acreew! Hopefully I'm not too far behind you with #191 which I'm building in Solomons, MD. Hope to see you on the water next year.
  6. CS 17 #191 build

    Unfortunately I didn't get to the messabout this year, but I have been making lots of progress. I got the outside painted. System Three WR-LPU Bainbridge White, HVLP spray gun. I will wet-sand the outside (600, 800, 1500) and then will hit it with a buffer. I put some 3/4 " stainless hollowback rub strips on the keel, 1/2" on the stem. Half inch was hard to find and more expensive than the 3/4". I bedded it in butyl tape, still not sure this was a great idea. I like butyl for mounting most hardware but I think I should have used something that cures harder. Next up was flipping her and fitting my (used) trailer. I would have preferred a wider trailer but this was one that I had and it will work. This week has been all about the coamings. I had previously steam-bent the inner and outer front pieces. Inner front piece went in first. All three inner pieces glued in. Now the three outer pieces all glued in. Used almost every clamp in the shop!
  7. CS 17 #191 build

    It has been a while since I last posted. I have been working on the boat. It just hasn't been very photogenic (I've been sanding!) Here are some highlights of the last couple months. I really like the side deck braces with the little holes. I expect they will be very handy for tying fenders, etc. So I added two more on each side. After lots of sanding I got the boat primed, inside and out. The deck will be Kiwi Grip and the floor will be closed-cell pad. To move it around the shop I put the cradle on wheels. Easier to move but more difficult to climb inside. Withe some help from my son and his wife I steam-bent wood for the coaming. It worked out well. I am doing the coaming in two layers, each ~1/4" thick. I steamed the wood for 20 minutes and used a steel bending strap on the outside of the bend. I do not know for certain what species of wood I'm using. It has been stashed for many years and it is beautiful stuff. Some think it is walnut but it doesn't pass the scratch and sniff test. As of yesterday I believe I am finished with spraying the finish coats on the inside. I'll know for certain when I go to the shop this AM. Still have some roller and brush work to get to the places I can't do well with the spray gun. I'm using System Three WR-LPU Bainbridge White (actually very light grey, but looks a little greenish under the fluorescent shop lights) in a HVLP gun.
  8. CS 17 #191 build

    I've been covering the outside of the hull with 6 oz. fiberglass cloth. I'm also using 100% polyester fabric from Joann Fabrics as peel-ply, which works very well. The specific fabric I'm using is white Sunline Anti Static Linings Fabric, Item #: 1431766. Joann always has a variety of coupons and sales so I got this for $4.00 per yard, 58 inches wide. Ten yards will do the hull. Here is a photo of one side of the hull covered with glass and peel ply. The glass was one continuous piece but I had to lay the peel ply in sections. Here is the peel ply being removed. Here is the hull after the peel ply has been removed. Here is the hull after scraping the peel ply seams. Here are my indispensable tools, my ProPrep scrapers, unfortunately no longer made. They make short work of scraping epoxy, especially when green.
  9. CS 17 #191 build

    Got lots of stuff done this week: Got the deck framing all planed to receive the decks. Put in the "epoxy tunnel" forward mast tube drain. Got the decks all glued on and trimmed. I used temporary drywall screws around the gunwales and on the king plank, lots of weights everywhere else. Then with a little help from my friends, we did the rollover today.
  10. CS 17

    Looks really nice, Paul. I love that bright transom! Cheers, Brian
  11. reefing with new sailplan on CS 17

    Tom, The suggested reefing set up would work. However, I look at friction as the enemy in running rigging and I think a Harken 233 micro cheek block or similar would work better. I don't think the suggested approach would save any weight or much cost, and you're still putting two holes in the sprit. Cheers, Brian
  12. CS 17 #191 build

    Thanks Paul. Full disclosure: that is the way I did the king plank the second time. First time I figured one long piece bridging the hatch would be best to ensure a fair deck line but I happened to have two short pieces of 1x4 at hand ... anyway despite careful clamping they were not satisfactorily aligned when the epoxy cured. So I sawed 'em out and did it again. As our shop boatwright says: "It's just a piece of wood..."
  13. CS 17 #191 build

    Got all the deck framing done, now epoxy coating various bits. Hope to get the deck on next week.
  14. CS 17 #191 build

    Progress (and learning) continues. My first attempt at making a mast tube did not result in a usable product. I used the method with the one inch wide strips of plastic arranged longitudinally underneath another wrapping of plastic. I made a few mistakes. First I figured since I needed a couple relatively short tubes I'd make one long one (about four feet long). I did not use new plastic and it was not 6 mil, more like 2- or 3 mil. I also wound my four layers of 10 oz glass tape on pretty tightly as I was wetting it out. Result: the cured fiberglass tube was not coming off my aluminum mast, no way, no how. I cut it into two pieces but no luck getting half of it off either. The one inch strips just stretched and broke. So after a phone call with Alan I cut the tubes off with a Fein tool and a chisel. Second try I first wrapped the mast with wax paper, then only five non-overlapping one inch longitudinal strips of new 6 mil plastic, then a complete wrap of new 6 mil plastic. I laid the glass tape on with only moderate tension, smoothing it out with a chip brush spirally, starting in the middle and working toward each end. The result was amazingly different. The one inch strips pulled easily out the next day and the tubes slid right off. I faired them with epoxy and micro balloons and they are nice and smooth, inside and out. Due to Graham's superior design skills, the finished tubes mic out at 2.75 inches OD, an easy match for a readily available hole saw. I also made the decision to go with the original arrangement for the main mast step and not put in a tabernacle. I think it will look better (subjective), and I really don't think I need the functionality that a tabernacle would give me. I am used to sticking masts in tubes from my Sea Pearl days and I don't plan on storing an anchor in the bow area. So here's a shot of my main mast step, using the ihandy level app on my phone to set the angle. This past week I got all my seat tops on and filleted and now I'm having a sanding party. On a sad/happy (sappy?) note, our youngest daughter Emma spent some time at the shop this week with me working on the boat. She left yesterday for Navy Officer Candidate School in Newport, RI. Hopefully she will be launching her new career at the end of June, about the same time I hope to launch the boat.
  15. CS 17 #191 build

    PAR, Thanks again. That is all great advice. I also read the "Painting" section on your website. Kudos to you for taking the time to write and share all that good info. I see you are located in Eustis, FL. We happen to have two sailboats built in Eustis here at our museum in Solomons, MD. They were built by Earnest "Dick" Hartge, a well known Chesapeake Bay designer and builder who retired to Eustis in the late 1960s. Witch of the Wave is a traditionally built plank on frame livery boat. He built five or six of them in Eustis that he kept on the shore of his property to rent out and earn a little money. He actually prefabbed a lot of the parts here in Maryland and built the boats once he got set up in Florida. He called that design the "Breadwinner" class. Spirit is a much more interesting boat to sail. He built her in his 80s by and for himself. It was essentially his last boat as he only built one more smaller boat after that. She is strip planked and weighs about what a Lightning does, ~700 lbs. Hartge was well known for designing and building several winning boats in the Chesapeake 20 class. Spirit looks a lot like one of his Chesapeake 20s except Spirit is double-ended and 2 feet longer (22 ft LOD). Our boatshop did a restoration on her a couple years ago and she has a nice new set of sails.

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.