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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/10/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    The weather here has been very lousy. I don't have the boat waterproof enough to leave outside, so work has been a bit slowed because I need to roll it out of my garage to put the masts up. But my dumb mistake on the mizzen tabernacle is almost over. My son Teddy helped me tip up the mast and mark it's proper location. I made a little template to rout the mast step into the base and routed the base last night........it came out nice. If fits snug and I think by this weekend we'll be past this self made problem. Unfortunately I'll be gone for a week on a family vacation out west and momentum will stop until I get back June 3rd, but I'd like to get past this before I go. I have a trip scheduled to go to Lake Champlain. At the rate I'm going it might be with my Sea Pearl, which is frustrating. Between work, HS track meets and honey-do's, time has been scarce. On a real positive note my good friend Doug bought me a oil lamp. Here it is hanging in the cabin. Up in Maine last year on his Cornish Shrimper we used his lamp to take the chill off the cabin. I'm super excited to have this aboard. Last night I snuck out in a totally dark garage to light it and it really makes a cozy cabin. I know y'all southerners don't need any heat in the cabin, but up here the evenings get cool and on a small boat this is the ticket. Thank you Doug!
  2. 3 points
    Yes, VMG means velocity made good, but good as in towards the wind. VMC or velocity made course is the rate at which you are approaching your destination. And closely related, and significant in giving meaning to the other terms is TWA, towards wind angle. For any given boat their is an optimum TWA for getting the highest VMG possible. This is the angle you use sailing to weather.
  3. 2 points
    On 02 April we drove to the factory and picked up the kit using the modified catamaran’s trailer. As predicted, upon arrival the skies opened up and made for a drenching experience while loading. Prior to arriving Alan recommended picking up a poly tarp which we draped over the crate followed by numerous wraps of shipping film around the circumference. After skillful loading I was impressed the trailer was in darn near perfect trim and balance for a very wet drive home. The next day under clear blue skies I removed the tarp and film to find the crate dry and the contents unaffected. Thank you Alan! As parts were unloaded, inventoried, stowed and somewhat organized in the garage, it subtly came to me just what a huge project I’ve taken on. My mantra is to enjoy the journey and destination will be that much sweeter. Thank you all who have contributed to this forum, your posts provide me with such great amount of information and knowledge that provides me the confidence I can achieve one of my bucket-list goals.
  4. 2 points
    Thrillsbe, looking great. I may retrofit the Suzy J with the new joining hardware. Looks pretty slick. A t trick for the next person.....They sell craft foam at michaels that is about the same as the kerf on a handsaw. It supports the bulkhead gap but can be cut like butter when doing the magician's trick.
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    Nice work Amos. You'll find the shelving very useful. For builders who haven't installed the sheer strakes -- it's much easier to install the shelf-supporting cleats before doing the s-strakes. Same for any drawers you may want that may be stowed between Blks 4 & 5 that [for easy access] slide out over the bunks. For Chessie I'm still trying to figure out where to put hangers for shirts, hats, jackets, etc.
  7. 2 points
    Several times over the years the discussion about connecting nesting dinghies comes up. Before B&B came out with their UHMW plastic connectors a former contributor to this forum designed his own out of S/S. While going through my bookmarks I found Garry's link which includes pictures and drawings. I made mine exactly as Garry designed them and after 10 years they still work perfectly. It makes assembling the halves in the water (good when you are cruising) very easy, actually, easier than assembling on land. I like the idea of plastic as even S/S steel rusts, especially when bedded flush and underwater for periods of time. My dinghy spent 2, 5 month seasons in the water at a dinghy dock and the rust, while superficial looks terrible. There would probably be less issue for a dinghy stored on land. Any way, here it is...... https://pbase.com/onceagain/connector_design
  8. 2 points
    Well Chessie's dinghy, "Catnip" (a Two Paw 7), is finished (except for painting her interior a "battleship" gray). So I'm finishing the conversion of Chessie's trailer from 3-rollers to one 16' trough. Today applied the last coat of epoxy with one tablespoon of powered graphite. Here's a photo: Once the cure was at the "thin-film set" stage -- can you believe that I was allowed to move the sixteen foot epoxied 2x4 board into our living room to cure in 70 degree comfort? Now that's a wife you can live with for 60 years (come July)! I'll smooth out that groove with 400 grit aluminum oxid paper. Once installed, I'll help it be nice and slippery with some paste wood-floor wax. The loading will be reduced from ~500 lbs/roller to just ~100 lbs/foot, or only about 8 lbs/inch! I think the keel will be much relieved and the boat will have an easier highway transport. Chessie is in a lift at Backyard Boats in Woodbridge so that I can have the trailer at home for the modifications. Too much sunshine! Better pix later. Forward roller (aft to right). Middle roller. Note "walking board" going forward (to left). Very useful (recovering) for attaching winch hook to bow-eye and keeping dry. Aft roller. The board at the bottom of pix is the CB catcher. This keeps the CB from ever dragging on the highway -- and also never hanging up on the aft cross member when launching. Once the new trough proves itself in a trial launch -- I'll discard the rollers.
  9. 2 points
    Mark, For years we've used the GARMN MAP76 and 76CX (color version with charts and magnetometer). They have always served me well and garmin always fixes them and sends them back when we send them in for repairs. I think our family has about 6 of them between us and we carry multiple spares although we've rarely had a breakdown with them. They do have a tendancy to shut off when the battery gets disconnected such as if they bang against the cockpit seats and the battery squeezes the spring and momentarily loses contact. I keep the gps in my PFD pocket on my kokatat misfit pfd with the screen facing my chest. i can slide it up for a quick check very easily. at night i typically leave it clipped to something and sitting on the seat in front of me with the backlight on the dimmest setting. That way i have a hand free to use the spotlight and can just look down to check our course. This year we took the newer MAP 78 which is a bit different but i still like it fine but don't have nearly as much time on it. Fred, Dead down wind (with main and mizzen on the same side) the chute is hanging lifeless behind the mainsail which is when you would hoist or recover it if it were bag launched from the cockpit. As we head up, we sheet it in to get it "started" and the leading edge catches the breeze and it quickly fills and we let the sheet way out so it can billow out to it's proper trim (leading edge just starting to curl). We head up to say 10 deg off ddw and the chute stays filled but the boat does not accelerate much this is where I found the best angle to be for the lighter winds we had (about 8 knots). Heading further up to say 20-30 deg off the wind the leading edge collapses as the apparent wind rotates further forward so you sheet in to keep the chute trimmed and the boat accelerates. As it accelerates apparent wind moves further ahead and you have to sheet in even more to keep up with it OR bear away. With an asymmetrical chute you are constantly playing it. rounding up to "heat" the boat up sheeting in as you do and then bearing away in the puffs to bleed off speed and gain progress downwind. VMG initially goes down but then back up once the boat gains speed. Whether or not VMG is better than it was when going ddw is what you're looking for. It's tough because you are constantly playing the chute and heading up and down a bit to keep it in trim. We didn't play the chute nearly as much as you would if you were buoy racing so with the chute cleated off it's up to the helmsman to keep it in trim with changes in course instead of constant sail trimming. heading up until it just starts to curl on the leading edge and then bearing away in the puffs. We did this a lot sailing in the tybee 500 especially when conditions were very steady state (flat water and constant breeze) and the crew can take a break from "sawing" on the spinnaker sheet. With a following swell you can head up to heat the boat up, catch the swell, bear away (sheeting out as you do to keep the chute powered up if needed) or if you caught the swell (yay) and are now surfing you might be sheeting the chute in hard to keep up with the apparent wind shifting forward. You just have to have your eyes glued to the leading edge of the spinnaker and do whatever it wants. If we'd had a bit more wind which we did a couple of times then the boat pops up on plane and as soon as it does you have to sheet the chute in again to keep up with the apparent wind (keeping the chute trimmed properly all the time). And then you can bear away now on plane and let the the chute out a bit as you do keeping the boat powered up and you can now drive the boat down on plane and make lots of good speed more toward ddw and if you lose speed you head back up to find it again. wash rinse repeat. I kept the mainsail in about where it would be when sailing upwind which is where it wanted to be and also helps act as a back-stay. Of course the running backstays were pulled in as well. On the spinnaker catamarans, if you don't have the main sheeted in tight when you're flying the chute the mast won't stay up very long. The mizzen is a different story, I kept it out more like i was on a broad reach or even a bit deeper because it has a lot of leverage over the boat and when the boat heats up and heels over there is weather helm generated from the lift of the sails being to the lee of the boat. To de-power the boat while flying the spinnaker you bear away toward ddw and you don't want anything to prevent you from doing that. The mizzen can easily overpower the rudder input in that situation. Many times when you want to bear away you have to make sure the mizzen is let out a touch. Also if you're sailing upwind hard and the boat is trying to sail on her ear too much it will cool right off if you just crack off on the mizzen just a touch. As for knowing when to tack or gybe in this case it was really just when we felt like it. We were following the leader so as a rule you don't want to get too far from them so you get about the same air as they have and you get about the same shifts and puffs. In our case we were also trying to minimize gybes which are slow so we would sail out until we though we can sail "in" back toward cape sable and have a nice long run. We're trying to sail the shortest path so like for sailing around cape sable we set a go to point down at the farthest point out that we'll have to turn at. When we reach that point we set a new point and so on. So the gps is always telling me to turn to that course that is the shortest straight line course. If you tack through 100 deg and you're sailing upwind on a port tack and the gps says turn 50 deg to port to be "on course" then you know you're doing just as good on that course as you would do on the other tack. If you get headed (wind shift causing you to bear away or fall off) then you can switch to the favored tack for a slightly higher vmg. Some boats sail waaay out away from the beach but i don't like that because most of the wind is usually right there near the beach and also i can't tell you how many times i've been farther off the beach and watched boats closer to the beach pull away and rarely is it the other way around. As you approach a "go to" point you're navigating to on your GPS then you get close to the laylines and the "turn to" number changes faster. You know when you've reached the layline when your turn number equals your tacking angle (assuming there is no current). the gps is a super handy tool and invaluable at night but during the day i'm focused just as much on where other boats are, looking for current as we pass markers and making sure the boat "feels fast". Also, we probably kicked our rudder up 30 or 40 times along the course and pulled the CB up all the way occasionally during a tack to make sure we weren't dragging an ocean of seaweeds around with us. Usually you see a nice clump of them float away behind the boat whenever you do.
  10. 2 points
    I enjoyed watching your time lapse video, you are doing a great job. I am sorry about your little glitch. It is not a big deal and will not compromise the boat. Unfortunately it is right around the maximum curvature where the ply is under the most stress and will cause a slight outward bulge. It needs to be epoxied back into place but you need to apply force to get the cracked veneers back to the fair shape. I would cut a piece of 6mm ply about 9" long and 7" wide with plastic sandwiched between the ply and the hull and screw it over the damaged area to force the hull back to its fair shape until the epoxy cured. Because the 6mm ply bottom that you are screwing into does not have enough thread bearing area to absorb the force needed to draw the cracked area back to a fair shape, you need to use some blocks to screw into, like 1 1/4" squares of 3/4" ply. Put some duct tape on the underside of the blocks. You should do a dry run to check that it works like you want. If it does not quite bring the surface back to fair, try thicker ply. I presume that you will glass the outside of the hull before painting. I would glass a patch on the inside and you will be back to full strength.
  11. 2 points
    I try to tell myself that. In fact, I started to clean up the sole of my build a week or so ago and started with the attitude of "it's a walking surface and will have non skid on it so I'm not going to put much effort into fairing it". Didn't last too long before I had the long board on that too. I know myself, if there is one thing out of place in the finished product, I will have to look at it every time I use the boat and berate myself for not addressing it. Who's the smarter man, the one who is playing with his boat or the one who is still sanding it 3 years later.
  12. 2 points
    I'm using the two Anderson bailers method. I don't think it is necessary superior to any other method; just different (Jay's system works very well; I saw it in person at one of the Messabouts and it is very quick to fill and empty). Yes, you do have to remove the flapper in the reverse-mounted bailer (hereafter referred to as the scoop). It is very easy to remove; pliars and 10 seconds are all you need. Filling While sailing: filling with the scoop does not take long at all, even at 1 knot While motoring: very quick and effecient Not moving: slow (I open both bailers to speed it up, but it takes awhile). It will only fill the tank up to the waterline of the boat, so you will have to top it off after closing the bailers. I use a folding bucket. Any water spilled goes right out of the self-draining cockpit. Emptying While sailing: need to be moving above 3 knots. I haven't timed it, but it isn't quick. It won't empty the last inch or so of water, but I don't think that is a big deal. One disadvantage is situations when the wind dies down, you are moving slow, and you want to empty the tank. It can take a while. I need to buy a kayaker's hand pump for these cases; I think that would work well. While motoring: empties quickly and effeciently Not moving: only the portion of the tank above the waterline will empty (maybe 25% of the tank?). I need to get a handpump for these cases. I wouldn't change anything if I had to do it again. Yes, you need a handpump and bucket, but those are good items to have regardless of the ballast tank. I think the ballast tank is one the best features of the boat (love the low trailering weight), and whichever empty/fill technique you use you will be happy you have one. I hit some steep chop close-hauled in the middle of the Chesapeake Bay, put the water ballast in, and it smoothed out the motion of the boat. I was amazed at how well it handled the waves.
  13. 2 points
    I started this spindrift over 10 years ago, it got set aside for other projects shortly after I got started. But I was needing something to do this winter that would fit in the garage so out she came. The bottom of the hull is 1/4 inch meranti and the sides are 3mm oakume planked with 1/4 inch mahogany. The transom is rounded mahogany and the front deck is mahogany and birdseye maple. I'm moving along at a good pace now so I will bee posting a few pictures along the way for those that are interested. There is a lot of customizing of this boat, its the basic design with some pretty's added. She will come in 40 to 50 pounds over weight I'm sure but she will sure be purty! Heres a pic of the deck roughed in.
  14. 2 points
    It is a good idea to add extra sail area for those light weather days. You can either run the staysail or the spinnaker. There is just not enough room for 4 sails on the boat for all of them to set well at the same time and have a nice slot between them so that they can all draw efficiently. The staysail is a docile easily handled sail that will boost your speed nicely. It is easy to hoist and retrieve. It can be used on a close reach to a broad reach. It can be set with the the working sails wing and wing on a fairly broad reach but not straight down wind because the sails start to blanket each other. Tacking down wind in a narrow channel is annoying because the staysail has to be removed for the main to gybe. I have never used the staysail on Carlita because I have the spinnaker and being bigger I will opt for it making the staysail redundant for me. I have experimented a flat cut sail like a jib and a radial tri cut spinnaker. Naturally the flat cut will allow you to carry it closer to the wind but you cannot carry it close enough for windward work. Because it is hard to change spinnakers under way especially solo I typically opt for the spinnaker giving up being able to sail as high with it. It is a lot larger which means that I will have to furl it up sooner than I would with the smaller sail so everything is a compromise. The prices are for the sails only.
  15. 2 points
  16. 2 points
  17. 2 points
    OK, I took the easy way out and taped a line at the waterline using a laser level. The big reason is I didn't have enough room to extend the V shaped pieces wide enough in my shop. We'll get that step done when she's on the trailer. I flipped the hull (getting easy now!) and painted the sides and then below the waterline. The hull is a nice grey. Super happy with the color. FWIW, I wanted to use a 2 part poly due to it's fuel resistance. I wound up using Interlux Perfection. On the bottom I used VC-17 (freshwater paint) over a 2000E epoxy coating. Tonight I start putting fittings on permanently. Yay!
  18. 2 points
    Tom, You know what I think about ballast in a powerboat. I am looking forward to seeing the Old Codger. Alan asked me last week how I thought she would float, I answered " by the stern" and he said "I think so too". Of course I had prior info, Chick told me that he was going to steer with the tiller. Maybe we can talk him into some sort of bulkhead steering system. It would be more agreeable when he does the Great Loop. She is so light that her moment to trim would be small, maybe a few cans of vienna sausages and a couple of Linda Ronstadt tapes stowed in the bow will trim her out and leave the stones ashore.
  19. 1 point
    Hey y'all. Check out the story of our latest cruise. The Old Codger and the Coves, in the Boating and Cruising section.
  20. 1 point
    Both Amos and I used the same swim ladder in our 20.3s. Pics below.I did see that Doug Cameron used the ladder you are showing, but I have a rope ladder on my sea pearl and it is not easy to use even for kids. The downside to the reverse transoms is a wedge needs to be made. Amos made a nice one out of wood and my son 3d printed mine.
  21. 1 point
    Worthy considerations Amos. Though built very differently, the mold for a Lapwing becomes part of the boat, bulkheads and inboard sides of side seat/tanks. One of the bulkheads gets a major portion of it cut out, but the same issue of deforming under strain during construction exists. I cut out the corners of the holes with hole saw blades of appropriate diameter before, so that I had easy straight cuts for after. I calculated my jigsaw would fit for doing these straight sections.
  22. 1 point
    Hello- Kit was just delivered today, very excited to be getting started! Will try to post lots of photos and will surely be asking for help! First job is just to inventory all the parts! NowWeTryItMyWay
  23. 1 point
    Matt, My experience has been that the boat is ever so slightly faster (or at least feels faster perhaps due to the added weather helm) with the mizzen sheeted in just a touch extra. That being said, it's easy to take it too far and if the boat starts feeling slow again I let both sails out and start again. Sometimes the boat just starts bogging down from being over sheeted but it's hard to know sometimes unless your able to sail along side another boat for reference or you are glued to the gps for speed. A few times this year on the EC when we had a long beat after CP2 to Cape Sable and we were trying to keep up with the Highlander I would reset our average speed on the gps and sheet something just slightly or adjust the snotter and then see the effect on average speed after say 5 min. I'm not sure it was any better than just "feeling" if the boat was faster but we had nothing else to do and were sailing too high to use the spinnaker at that point The mizzen operates in the backwash of the main especially when beating so I've always felt that it needed to be sheeted in a bit more than the main. Sheeted in just past luffing might be the right spot but I think a better way to think about it is to be sheeted in to "just before stall" which might be 2 or 3 or some other number of degrees past when the sail looks like it's not luffing. In other words I think there is a range (maybe 5 deg) of sheeting angles that will look fine (telltales flying nicely) when beating and which one is best? I don't know. Having a lot more tell tales would be nice to try sometime and do some testing. Like taping a bunch of 4" long pieces of cassette tape (if you can find one) to the sail near the mast. Also I think in stronger wind the effect is not as bad since the area of backwash from the main is moving faster and has less effect on the mizzen (just a guess) so then the mizzen becomes more effective and the boat starts to feel the extra lift which is sometimes too much. That's why I think the boat really pops up when you get a gust while going upwind so sometimes i'll crack off on the mizzen just a bit to depower it a little whereas otherwise I would keep it in that little extra bit. Still rounding up in the puffs to keep from capsizing of course but it seems to me that the mizzen wants to be in a slightly different spot compared to the main when the wind picks up if that makes sense.
  24. 1 point
    We have routes saved to go between each checkpoint but we don't always stay navigating on the route all the time. It's nice to break it up into smaller chunks so you can say, ok 4 hours until we reach (whatever the next milestone is) and i just use the route as a guide and set my own "go to" point. The route is a lot less important for us since depending on the wind direction we might follow the route exactly or be tacking wildly across it in which case it is not helpful to have closely spaced points along the route and better to keep picking a point up ahead say 5 or 10 miles distant. Otherwise as you pass each point vmg drops to zero and the gps is telling to you turn 90 deg to be on course while in actual fact you might be just sailing past one of the route points. The garmin decides when to navigate you to the next point on the route which is annoying sometimes because you can have a gap in the heading information until the gps picks up the next point on the route which is why i like to have my go to point always distant. If your navigating through an inlet though you're going slower and have to be more mindful to stay on the route exactly especially at night.
  25. 1 point
    Curious why Graham has you guys install the keel after you cut it in half? I have read this same procedure a couple of times.
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    In case you just thought I had hibernated in the snow:
  28. 1 point
    Foam is required here, too. I leave generous sized holes through the bulkheads that separate compartments, limber holes at the bottom corners, and at least one hatch open to the outside. A screw out plastic hatch is fine. It's also good to have a transom drain that any water can drain out of. I always keep my boats on trailers, so I can remove the transom drain plug and open the hatch(s). Anything to get air flow. The USCG requires "upright and level" flotation. Placing all of the foam spread across the bottom tends to make the boat unstable when it is flooded. It is prone to being capsizes in the waves. I built fiberglass boats for a living and had to have them tested to be sure that they complied with the flotation standards. I found that I needed to leave a section down the middle of the boat without flotation. There was plenty of room left on either side for the amount of foam required to meet the standards. A benefit of this was that it left the area most prone to water penetration free of foam that would otherwise block drainage and ventilation. It's also good to add foam under the deck to help with upright flotation if you have room for it. A book could be written on this subject, but I think this gets the idea across.
  29. 1 point
    The first layer of filler
  30. 1 point
    In vexing situations, some say “press on regardless”. My daughter says “it’s all good”. My pastor says “be at peace”. With these thoughts in mind, I peacefully pressed on, knowing that it would be good— or at least fixable. I’m here to report that it went well. Here are some photos of my 6-pack bulkheads.
  31. 1 point
    Amos's reply is pretty comprehensive. Looking at the location of the break (they often break on the corners which is less of a big deal as you say) a butt joint repair with a tiny scrap piece i think would be fine. You could put a small piece of glass over it on both sides for peace of mind. Wont matter for the inside and can be sanded completely off on the outside before glassing the hull.
  32. 1 point
    If you can't change your mind, how do you know you have one? 😉
  33. 1 point
    Just a shout out to Paul. I read of his passing while on a trip but I didn't have time to fully acknowledge how much his experience and advice has meant to me. I was just posting something on the B & B forum and realized if PAR was around it would be his advice I'd pay very close attention to. All of the tributes here show I wasn't the only one who felt this way. Rest in Peace.
  34. 1 point
    Dad would like to clarify that it was 75 C-Clamps, and that doesn't include bar-clamps and pipe clamps.
  35. 1 point
    It is turning out beautiful. The attention to detail in the trim work looks amazing. I hope to see it for real someday. Egbert
  36. 1 point
    Yeah, then you'll "paws" and reflect on your decision.
  37. 1 point
    Well, it’s back to the drawing board, boys and girls! Last night, the folly of my wonderful scheme became very evident. Let me explain. As you know, I’m planning to use B&B’s slick Quick Connect system. This will speed up my boat launching, maximizing time on the lake (getting skunked by the Bass). It is very important that these fittings line up with their mating parts. The problem becomes how to get these various parts in perfect alignment. This was a cool problem for this engineer. I would draw on my 40+ years of engineering skills, using desctiptive geometry, geometric dimensioning & tolerancing, satellite imagery, and a handful of 16-penny nails. The latter were to serve as locating pins for the various bits. All the pre-drilled parts would fit together precisely. That was the plan. Nothing lined up! New plan: glue together the undrilled pieces, line the bulkead assemblies up & drill pilot holes through both halves. This will ensure good alignment of the two halves. I hope. Photos of that process will follow. (Unless someone else has a better idea.) Meanwhile, here’s one showing my 1/8” misalignment.
  38. 1 point
    I'm right there with you. I've always had boats with some amount of bright work and understand the commitment to keep it well maintained. If I can extend service intervals I'll consider it a win. Seems like it's always an experiment.
  39. 1 point
    Some really great pictures thank you! Man I wish my boat was done already. TO THE GARAGE!
  40. 1 point
    Bagging teak boards to the transom.
  41. 1 point
    Brilliant. My wife once picked a car based on the appeal of it's cupholders. Really. To be honest, I'll probably add a bottleport on the deck. I have one on a sunfish and one on my Sea Pearl. Amazing. http://www.bottleport.com/
  42. 1 point
    In case you all think I'm slacking, I've taken the approach that since sailing is done here in NY, I'd add a few details. Below is a shot of my Yeti coffee (yes, it was worth 30 bucks) in it's new recess in the cabin step. You will also note the electrical system, which is done (more later) short of a few wire fasteners to tidy things up. The only thing left in the cabin is to make a few gear hammocks and to design some gear pockets to add to the unpainted aft cabin. I'm not above copying others good ideas. Everything is faired and primed above decks. Paint will go on next Monday after live advice in NC. It will prevent my coffee cup from sliding at anchor. The other side is for Suzanne's cup, which she's getting for Xmas in her stocking. Pretty darn romantic I'd say!
  43. 1 point
    And here is my marissa named Piranha With some hull modifications !
  44. 1 point
    An additional photo that didn't post first time around. I float on to this position then crank in the last few feet. Build more Belhavens.
  45. 1 point
    Chessie now has her Dodger and is tucked snugly away in her garage just as Virginia gets ready for the last [hopefu;;y] snow on the 2nd day of spring. Just before Dave (Potomac Canvas Co.) started cutting canvas, I stood under the dry-fitted tubing and decided that the headroom [under to tubing] wouldn't be enough for me to stand in the companionway and comfortably use a hand-held urinal. So I asked Dave if he could cut me a "zippered" opening in the top that would give me unlimited headroom while standing on the cabin sole. He wouldn't guarantee it to be waterproof, but we decided that it would resist all but the hardest rain. And if the companionway hatch is closed, leaking wouldn't matter anyway. And, after final assembly, we discovered another reason to have the opening. It allows for deployment / stowage of the Dodger while on the water. I suppose that will be occasionally useful, but for the most part I'll probably sail with the Dodger deployed. I'll discover if that's the case during this summer's cruising season. Dave originally didn't recommend that the Dodger (even in stowed position) be on the cabin roof while trailering on the highway. But he made a "dust cover" for me anyway. And seeing how well it's secured on the cabin roof, he thought highway travel would be OK. In fact I hit 60 to 70 mph while trailering her home from the canvas shop without any problems. Here are a few photos: The planned "sky-light": The next two photos show the "Boot" -- which we originally called just a "dust cover": The black item is simply a piece of pipe insulation slipped over the leading edge as "chafe" protection where the canvas and tubing rest on the dodger's coaming. Entrance / exit thru the companionway hatch is slightly impeded when Dodger in stowed position.. View from the starboard-side helmsman position. I'd say the view is not significantly impeded. Skylight open and rolled up. View from aft, starboard and port. View from forward and closeup of attachment hardware. Once folded and in the "boot" the whole thing can be removed by just lining up the retainers and pulling the pins. Later, I'll post the weight of the whole thing. NOTICE the wrinkles in the top. They will be "tensioned" out when Dave sends me the "tensioning" straps which will pull the top "tight" with extra leverage much more so than the little bungee cords on the ear-flaps. The first straps wouldn't release easily. By-the-way: The skylight allows one to reach all the turn-buttons while standing on the cabin sole. Absent that feature, deployment and stowage would have to be made on shore before launch. With the skylight open -- I can launch with the Dodger in its boot and strapped to the cabin roof for road transport. Perhaps not deployed at all during a day-sail, or only at anchor (on an overnight cruise).
  46. 1 point
    Couple more pictures. Shows the kayak closer, so you get better idea how it looks. Deck rigging is going to get done before spring.
  47. 1 point
    Took the opportunity of retirement to build a Vardo kayak. The process thus far has been a great experience with the only difficulty obtaining decent western red cedar for the stringers. I ended up splicing clear pieces together to meet my needs. I used marine spar varnish to preserve the hull. The fabric is nylon and I used a powdered pigment to obtain the orange color. Today I'll finish the deck and I'm thinking about adding some west coast native American Indian art work to the finished boat. .
  48. 1 point
    Ken, sounds like exactly what I was cutting. The guys came up yesterday and got the Breeze flipped for me. Thanks to Don, David, Terry, And the other Don. All went smoothly and she's back in her shop/garage waiting on me to be able to get back to work on her. Nothing really new on this picture. Just proof that she's on her own bottom. You'll note all of the runs and paint on the sheer strake. Word to those wiser than me. As soon as the waterborne paint hit the PAPER masking tape, the tape started to release and sucked the paint right under. Fortunately, I used plastic auto painter's tape on the transom, so it's ok.
  49. 1 point
    I can't begin to tell you how cool that is! Beautiful work on the boats, and the outrigger idea is brilliant. When my kids were little, we used to tootle around in a big double kayak with a center hatch. Good for distances on the ocean, but your setup looks more fun. When they got older, I built them stitch-and-glue kayaks, but that was before I knew aboout Kudzu.
  50. 1 point
    I find my 17 heaves-to a lot better if you raise the rudder. The bow goes right into the eye of the wind and stays there. You do tend to drift backwards pretty quickly in strong winds, so not for wicked lee shores.

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