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  1. 5 points
    I have been designing the Mathew Flinders for myself for more than a decade off and on, long before we did the Mk3's. What I was trying to achieve was to design the ultimate small voyaging boat that could easily be trailed behind a reasonable size vehicle and yet be be capable of crossing any ocean. She had to be built tough and live well for two people with room for a third person. She is not intended to replace the mk3's as they are great boats, but for anyone who wants to go up to the next level. I went through hundreds of iterations till I finally got it and I am very pleased with final outcome. As you can imagine I am really excited to see her come to life with Jay and Carol. I started at 22 feet and it finally grew to 23'4" as I massaged the ergonomics. When Jay ordered the boat, I did a lot of thinking about his comfort plus I had some interest from people who are a lot larger than me so at the last minute I scaled her by 5% to give 6'4' headroom with the final length at 24'6". If anyone has to have 6'6" headroom they can raise the cabin sides. The trailing weight will be around 4000" depending on how they load it. I am still planning to build the 23'4" version. One of the things that I worked hard on was the range of stability. She has positive stability to 180 degrees which more than meets the EU ISO rules for ocean sailing. I have attached one of the many stability curves that I made with the red and blue curves showing a best and worst case vertical center of gravity. That is to allow for builders to make their own modifications and still meet the high range of stability. I was also able to calculate the Flicka A well known small cruising boat, @ 20 degrees for comparison.
  2. 3 points
    Show coat to check my fairing. A couple of spots that need some work but generally OK.
  3. 3 points
    The weather here has been very lousy. I don't have the boat waterproof enough to leave outside, so work has been a bit slowed because I need to roll it out of my garage to put the masts up. But my dumb mistake on the mizzen tabernacle is almost over. My son Teddy helped me tip up the mast and mark it's proper location. I made a little template to rout the mast step into the base and routed the base last night........it came out nice. If fits snug and I think by this weekend we'll be past this self made problem. Unfortunately I'll be gone for a week on a family vacation out west and momentum will stop until I get back June 3rd, but I'd like to get past this before I go. I have a trip scheduled to go to Lake Champlain. At the rate I'm going it might be with my Sea Pearl, which is frustrating. Between work, HS track meets and honey-do's, time has been scarce. On a real positive note my good friend Doug bought me a oil lamp. Here it is hanging in the cabin. Up in Maine last year on his Cornish Shrimper we used his lamp to take the chill off the cabin. I'm super excited to have this aboard. Last night I snuck out in a totally dark garage to light it and it really makes a cozy cabin. I know y'all southerners don't need any heat in the cabin, but up here the evenings get cool and on a small boat this is the ticket. Thank you Doug!
  4. 3 points
    Yes, VMG means velocity made good, but good as in towards the wind. VMC or velocity made course is the rate at which you are approaching your destination. And closely related, and significant in giving meaning to the other terms is TWA, towards wind angle. For any given boat their is an optimum TWA for getting the highest VMG possible. This is the angle you use sailing to weather.
  5. 2 points
    I started this spindrift over 10 years ago, it got set aside for other projects shortly after I got started. But I was needing something to do this winter that would fit in the garage so out she came. The bottom of the hull is 1/4 inch meranti and the sides are 3mm oakume planked with 1/4 inch mahogany. The transom is rounded mahogany and the front deck is mahogany and birdseye maple. I'm moving along at a good pace now so I will bee posting a few pictures along the way for those that are interested. There is a lot of customizing of this boat, its the basic design with some pretty's added. She will come in 40 to 50 pounds over weight I'm sure but she will sure be purty! Heres a pic of the deck roughed in.
  6. 2 points
    Chick, I started drawing on paper again, but I used up my pencils. Coincidentally, the family had to renew the cell plan thing, and got a credit for a new device, which nobody wanted. So, wife and daughter decided to get a pad and “pencil” for me, so I can finally draw on the computer. It is literally a pencil shaped stylus that I rub on the glass face of a tablet device. The program (an Autodesk product) simulates pens (quill, rollerball, ball point, felt tip, etc) pencils (mechanical, colored, various hardness “leads”, etc) paint brushes, airbrushes, etc. etc. And the color is infinitely variable and selectable on a color wheel. I can literally draw with the pencil on the glass like paper, but I can zoom in and out, erase, delete, and... Well, that’s as far as I’ve gotten, as I don’t need any of the wizbang stuff on the program. It’s been fun drawing again, though. Peace, Robert P.S. On of the real paper drawings
  7. 2 points
    Here is the current photos of the Mathew Flinders, we have been working intermittently for about 3 weeks, all the bulkheads are fileted and taped into place, the head bulkheads are just sitting in place (well almost in place!). A very gentlemanly way to build a boat, standing on the outside reaching in! The “rollbar” is part of the building jig, the inner skin of the cabin will sit on top of the jig, so at 6’3” I have an incredible amount of headroom. To show scale, Carol is standing in the galley.
  8. 2 points
    Justin, Looking good. Glad to see you post some pictures and that you were able to get started on the boat finally. I like your casters on the support frames i'm sure you will enjoy being able to slide the boat around the garage. For cleaning up that epoxy squeeze out, a "mini-grinder" with a heavy grit sandpaper disk like 36 grit is an essential tool at our shop. It will make quick work of the majority of those cured epoxy blobs just be real careful not to gouge the panel and do the final 1/16" with a block of sandpaper or a flat machine sander like a 1/2" sheet sander or random orbit. Looking forward to seeing her folded up!
  9. 2 points
    On 02 April we drove to the factory and picked up the kit using the modified catamaran’s trailer. As predicted, upon arrival the skies opened up and made for a drenching experience while loading. Prior to arriving Alan recommended picking up a poly tarp which we draped over the crate followed by numerous wraps of shipping film around the circumference. After skillful loading I was impressed the trailer was in darn near perfect trim and balance for a very wet drive home. The next day under clear blue skies I removed the tarp and film to find the crate dry and the contents unaffected. Thank you Alan! As parts were unloaded, inventoried, stowed and somewhat organized in the garage, it subtly came to me just what a huge project I’ve taken on. My mantra is to enjoy the journey and destination will be that much sweeter. Thank you all who have contributed to this forum, your posts provide me with such great amount of information and knowledge that provides me the confidence I can achieve one of my bucket-list goals.
  10. 2 points
    There are a few others of us on this forum in the 2m range (I was but I am shrinking). I think we are the standard others aspire to be. And I appreciate Graham's and other designers willingness to adjust boats to fit!
  11. 2 points
    Wasserboot, I did not know that they made anyone that tall. It is important that can sleep comfortably so I take back my statement that nobody would need a bunk that long. If scaled lengthwise another 5% the midship berths would be 2.16 and the quarter berth would be 2.774 and the length of the boat would be 7.825 long.
  12. 2 points
    We have all the bulkheads in place that define the structure of the boat, I am 6 feet 3 inches (191 cm) and I have plenty of room everywhere. There is a huge amount of storage, and still have 66 gallons on fresh water, the holding tank is properly sized too. The icebox area will be insulated with 4 inches on the side and 6 inches on bottom and still have a generous area for the cold plate and refrigerated area for two. The 2 main berths are a comfortable sitting height when in the settee mode. We have had much larger boats that were more cramped in the “hi useage” areas.
  13. 2 points
    Wasserboot, The berths on the MF246 are 6'9" or 2.057 long. The quarter berth is even longer. I would not scale it any more because the volume increases too fast. It could be scaled by different length , beam and height factors but it rapidly becomes a new design. You surely do not need any more length in the bunks so moving bulkheads starts to get more complicated. As for windage, less is always more desirable. I think that it is still a reasonable trade off as the extra power gained from the stability helps to overcome it.
  14. 2 points
    I sailed a Tartan 27 for many years. It was one of the first fiberglass designs, and it had a short heavy keel with a centerboard launched therefrom, similar to Matt. It was a really good design. The keel kept it upright, and the CB really bit hard upwind. It pointed well. I think this is a good approach for the boat designed for these uses.
  15. 2 points
    Wasserboot, I am glad that you like our MF 234 and 246. I think that she will be an excellent boat for your waters. We have similar conditions here in Pamlico Sound which is large and shallow. Alan and I went through a list of boats to add to our web site yesterday. Alan has taken on the web site and has done a great job but we have been overloaded with work lately but digging our way out so expect to see some changes soon. Yes we will be listing the plans on the site.
  16. 2 points
    Woo! If I remember correctly, Graham, you're taller than my 5'8" so I'd probably be as happy as you with the 23'4" design. Does it have standing headroom for you? It's hard to believe you've managed to get that much headroom into an attractive boat of that length - That tumble-home really does the trick to keep things in proportion. My 20 foot keelboat barely has sitting headroom! And is that a dagger board or a centerboard? Either way, with the board up it would be easy to anchor in the shallows and walk ashore. What's the air draft? I've got to get under a ~7 meter bridge to get to the ocean.
  17. 2 points
    Slight deviation from the plans from now as I require an elevated deck for fly fishing. Front deck has a freeboard around ankle height and lower one just above knees (for rougher water) - perfect. Went with a H90 20mm foam to try and gain some weight back due to the modifications. Deck panels were vacuum bagged on a piece of 30mm MDF board/table and beams using cryovac bag rolls.
  18. 2 points
    The outside in the first layer of epoxy
  19. 2 points
    Have made some progress in the last few weeks. Glassed the keel (inside), broke and then fixed my hanging knees, made several other errors and recovered, attached the transom, framed out the centerboard trunk and coated the inside with an epoxy / graphite mixture so it will hopefully have less friction with the CB. Also have attached approximately 800 cleats to the top of interior members, almost ready to dry-fit the inside components of the boat.
  20. 2 points
    My camera does some optical illusion, but trust me, finally parallel masts. A great day of gardening and other stuff yesterday. This morning I got the mizzen tabernacle faired and tonight I'll check it for smoothness and prime it.
  21. 2 points
    Thrillsbe, looking great. I may retrofit the Suzy J with the new joining hardware. Looks pretty slick. A t trick for the next person.....They sell craft foam at michaels that is about the same as the kerf on a handsaw. It supports the bulkhead gap but can be cut like butter when doing the magician's trick.
  22. 2 points
    More mods: Installed a GPS holder using RAM mounts (highly recommend RAM mounts, the swivel balls aren't just plastic; they have an aluminum core, and the GPS mount has little roller bearings that ease insertion/removal of the unit). My awesome wife sewed up an organizer for the cabin bulkhead. It was so useful last time we went sailing we are going to install one on the starboard side as well. As you are sitting in the cockpit with your back against the bulkhead, you can reach in and grab what you need without having to get up and go in the cabin.
  23. 2 points
  24. 2 points
    Nice work Amos. You'll find the shelving very useful. For builders who haven't installed the sheer strakes -- it's much easier to install the shelf-supporting cleats before doing the s-strakes. Same for any drawers you may want that may be stowed between Blks 4 & 5 that [for easy access] slide out over the bunks. For Chessie I'm still trying to figure out where to put hangers for shirts, hats, jackets, etc.
  25. 2 points
    Several times over the years the discussion about connecting nesting dinghies comes up. Before B&B came out with their UHMW plastic connectors a former contributor to this forum designed his own out of S/S. While going through my bookmarks I found Garry's link which includes pictures and drawings. I made mine exactly as Garry designed them and after 10 years they still work perfectly. It makes assembling the halves in the water (good when you are cruising) very easy, actually, easier than assembling on land. I like the idea of plastic as even S/S steel rusts, especially when bedded flush and underwater for periods of time. My dinghy spent 2, 5 month seasons in the water at a dinghy dock and the rust, while superficial looks terrible. There would probably be less issue for a dinghy stored on land. Any way, here it is...... https://pbase.com/onceagain/connector_design
  26. 2 points
    Well Chessie's dinghy, "Catnip" (a Two Paw 7), is finished (except for painting her interior a "battleship" gray). So I'm finishing the conversion of Chessie's trailer from 3-rollers to one 16' trough. Today applied the last coat of epoxy with one tablespoon of powered graphite. Here's a photo: Once the cure was at the "thin-film set" stage -- can you believe that I was allowed to move the sixteen foot epoxied 2x4 board into our living room to cure in 70 degree comfort? Now that's a wife you can live with for 60 years (come July)! I'll smooth out that groove with 400 grit aluminum oxid paper. Once installed, I'll help it be nice and slippery with some paste wood-floor wax. The loading will be reduced from ~500 lbs/roller to just ~100 lbs/foot, or only about 8 lbs/inch! I think the keel will be much relieved and the boat will have an easier highway transport. Chessie is in a lift at Backyard Boats in Woodbridge so that I can have the trailer at home for the modifications. Too much sunshine! Better pix later. Forward roller (aft to right). Middle roller. Note "walking board" going forward (to left). Very useful (recovering) for attaching winch hook to bow-eye and keeping dry. Aft roller. The board at the bottom of pix is the CB catcher. This keeps the CB from ever dragging on the highway -- and also never hanging up on the aft cross member when launching. Once the new trough proves itself in a trial launch -- I'll discard the rollers.
  27. 2 points
    Mark, For years we've used the GARMN MAP76 and 76CX (color version with charts and magnetometer). They have always served me well and garmin always fixes them and sends them back when we send them in for repairs. I think our family has about 6 of them between us and we carry multiple spares although we've rarely had a breakdown with them. They do have a tendancy to shut off when the battery gets disconnected such as if they bang against the cockpit seats and the battery squeezes the spring and momentarily loses contact. I keep the gps in my PFD pocket on my kokatat misfit pfd with the screen facing my chest. i can slide it up for a quick check very easily. at night i typically leave it clipped to something and sitting on the seat in front of me with the backlight on the dimmest setting. That way i have a hand free to use the spotlight and can just look down to check our course. This year we took the newer MAP 78 which is a bit different but i still like it fine but don't have nearly as much time on it. Fred, Dead down wind (with main and mizzen on the same side) the chute is hanging lifeless behind the mainsail which is when you would hoist or recover it if it were bag launched from the cockpit. As we head up, we sheet it in to get it "started" and the leading edge catches the breeze and it quickly fills and we let the sheet way out so it can billow out to it's proper trim (leading edge just starting to curl). We head up to say 10 deg off ddw and the chute stays filled but the boat does not accelerate much this is where I found the best angle to be for the lighter winds we had (about 8 knots). Heading further up to say 20-30 deg off the wind the leading edge collapses as the apparent wind rotates further forward so you sheet in to keep the chute trimmed and the boat accelerates. As it accelerates apparent wind moves further ahead and you have to sheet in even more to keep up with it OR bear away. With an asymmetrical chute you are constantly playing it. rounding up to "heat" the boat up sheeting in as you do and then bearing away in the puffs to bleed off speed and gain progress downwind. VMG initially goes down but then back up once the boat gains speed. Whether or not VMG is better than it was when going ddw is what you're looking for. It's tough because you are constantly playing the chute and heading up and down a bit to keep it in trim. We didn't play the chute nearly as much as you would if you were buoy racing so with the chute cleated off it's up to the helmsman to keep it in trim with changes in course instead of constant sail trimming. heading up until it just starts to curl on the leading edge and then bearing away in the puffs. We did this a lot sailing in the tybee 500 especially when conditions were very steady state (flat water and constant breeze) and the crew can take a break from "sawing" on the spinnaker sheet. With a following swell you can head up to heat the boat up, catch the swell, bear away (sheeting out as you do to keep the chute powered up if needed) or if you caught the swell (yay) and are now surfing you might be sheeting the chute in hard to keep up with the apparent wind shifting forward. You just have to have your eyes glued to the leading edge of the spinnaker and do whatever it wants. If we'd had a bit more wind which we did a couple of times then the boat pops up on plane and as soon as it does you have to sheet the chute in again to keep up with the apparent wind (keeping the chute trimmed properly all the time). And then you can bear away now on plane and let the the chute out a bit as you do keeping the boat powered up and you can now drive the boat down on plane and make lots of good speed more toward ddw and if you lose speed you head back up to find it again. wash rinse repeat. I kept the mainsail in about where it would be when sailing upwind which is where it wanted to be and also helps act as a back-stay. Of course the running backstays were pulled in as well. On the spinnaker catamarans, if you don't have the main sheeted in tight when you're flying the chute the mast won't stay up very long. The mizzen is a different story, I kept it out more like i was on a broad reach or even a bit deeper because it has a lot of leverage over the boat and when the boat heats up and heels over there is weather helm generated from the lift of the sails being to the lee of the boat. To de-power the boat while flying the spinnaker you bear away toward ddw and you don't want anything to prevent you from doing that. The mizzen can easily overpower the rudder input in that situation. Many times when you want to bear away you have to make sure the mizzen is let out a touch. Also if you're sailing upwind hard and the boat is trying to sail on her ear too much it will cool right off if you just crack off on the mizzen just a touch. As for knowing when to tack or gybe in this case it was really just when we felt like it. We were following the leader so as a rule you don't want to get too far from them so you get about the same air as they have and you get about the same shifts and puffs. In our case we were also trying to minimize gybes which are slow so we would sail out until we though we can sail "in" back toward cape sable and have a nice long run. We're trying to sail the shortest path so like for sailing around cape sable we set a go to point down at the farthest point out that we'll have to turn at. When we reach that point we set a new point and so on. So the gps is always telling me to turn to that course that is the shortest straight line course. If you tack through 100 deg and you're sailing upwind on a port tack and the gps says turn 50 deg to port to be "on course" then you know you're doing just as good on that course as you would do on the other tack. If you get headed (wind shift causing you to bear away or fall off) then you can switch to the favored tack for a slightly higher vmg. Some boats sail waaay out away from the beach but i don't like that because most of the wind is usually right there near the beach and also i can't tell you how many times i've been farther off the beach and watched boats closer to the beach pull away and rarely is it the other way around. As you approach a "go to" point you're navigating to on your GPS then you get close to the laylines and the "turn to" number changes faster. You know when you've reached the layline when your turn number equals your tacking angle (assuming there is no current). the gps is a super handy tool and invaluable at night but during the day i'm focused just as much on where other boats are, looking for current as we pass markers and making sure the boat "feels fast". Also, we probably kicked our rudder up 30 or 40 times along the course and pulled the CB up all the way occasionally during a tack to make sure we weren't dragging an ocean of seaweeds around with us. Usually you see a nice clump of them float away behind the boat whenever you do.
  28. 2 points
    I enjoyed watching your time lapse video, you are doing a great job. I am sorry about your little glitch. It is not a big deal and will not compromise the boat. Unfortunately it is right around the maximum curvature where the ply is under the most stress and will cause a slight outward bulge. It needs to be epoxied back into place but you need to apply force to get the cracked veneers back to the fair shape. I would cut a piece of 6mm ply about 9" long and 7" wide with plastic sandwiched between the ply and the hull and screw it over the damaged area to force the hull back to its fair shape until the epoxy cured. Because the 6mm ply bottom that you are screwing into does not have enough thread bearing area to absorb the force needed to draw the cracked area back to a fair shape, you need to use some blocks to screw into, like 1 1/4" squares of 3/4" ply. Put some duct tape on the underside of the blocks. You should do a dry run to check that it works like you want. If it does not quite bring the surface back to fair, try thicker ply. I presume that you will glass the outside of the hull before painting. I would glass a patch on the inside and you will be back to full strength.
  29. 2 points
    I try to tell myself that. In fact, I started to clean up the sole of my build a week or so ago and started with the attitude of "it's a walking surface and will have non skid on it so I'm not going to put much effort into fairing it". Didn't last too long before I had the long board on that too. I know myself, if there is one thing out of place in the finished product, I will have to look at it every time I use the boat and berate myself for not addressing it. Who's the smarter man, the one who is playing with his boat or the one who is still sanding it 3 years later.
  30. 2 points
    I'm using the two Anderson bailers method. I don't think it is necessary superior to any other method; just different (Jay's system works very well; I saw it in person at one of the Messabouts and it is very quick to fill and empty). Yes, you do have to remove the flapper in the reverse-mounted bailer (hereafter referred to as the scoop). It is very easy to remove; pliars and 10 seconds are all you need. Filling While sailing: filling with the scoop does not take long at all, even at 1 knot While motoring: very quick and effecient Not moving: slow (I open both bailers to speed it up, but it takes awhile). It will only fill the tank up to the waterline of the boat, so you will have to top it off after closing the bailers. I use a folding bucket. Any water spilled goes right out of the self-draining cockpit. Emptying While sailing: need to be moving above 3 knots. I haven't timed it, but it isn't quick. It won't empty the last inch or so of water, but I don't think that is a big deal. One disadvantage is situations when the wind dies down, you are moving slow, and you want to empty the tank. It can take a while. I need to buy a kayaker's hand pump for these cases; I think that would work well. While motoring: empties quickly and effeciently Not moving: only the portion of the tank above the waterline will empty (maybe 25% of the tank?). I need to get a handpump for these cases. I wouldn't change anything if I had to do it again. Yes, you need a handpump and bucket, but those are good items to have regardless of the ballast tank. I think the ballast tank is one the best features of the boat (love the low trailering weight), and whichever empty/fill technique you use you will be happy you have one. I hit some steep chop close-hauled in the middle of the Chesapeake Bay, put the water ballast in, and it smoothed out the motion of the boat. I was amazed at how well it handled the waves.
  31. 2 points
    It is a good idea to add extra sail area for those light weather days. You can either run the staysail or the spinnaker. There is just not enough room for 4 sails on the boat for all of them to set well at the same time and have a nice slot between them so that they can all draw efficiently. The staysail is a docile easily handled sail that will boost your speed nicely. It is easy to hoist and retrieve. It can be used on a close reach to a broad reach. It can be set with the the working sails wing and wing on a fairly broad reach but not straight down wind because the sails start to blanket each other. Tacking down wind in a narrow channel is annoying because the staysail has to be removed for the main to gybe. I have never used the staysail on Carlita because I have the spinnaker and being bigger I will opt for it making the staysail redundant for me. I have experimented a flat cut sail like a jib and a radial tri cut spinnaker. Naturally the flat cut will allow you to carry it closer to the wind but you cannot carry it close enough for windward work. Because it is hard to change spinnakers under way especially solo I typically opt for the spinnaker giving up being able to sail as high with it. It is a lot larger which means that I will have to furl it up sooner than I would with the smaller sail so everything is a compromise. The prices are for the sails only.
  32. 2 points
  33. 2 points
  34. 2 points
    OK, I took the easy way out and taped a line at the waterline using a laser level. The big reason is I didn't have enough room to extend the V shaped pieces wide enough in my shop. We'll get that step done when she's on the trailer. I flipped the hull (getting easy now!) and painted the sides and then below the waterline. The hull is a nice grey. Super happy with the color. FWIW, I wanted to use a 2 part poly due to it's fuel resistance. I wound up using Interlux Perfection. On the bottom I used VC-17 (freshwater paint) over a 2000E epoxy coating. Tonight I start putting fittings on permanently. Yay!
  35. 2 points
    Tom, You know what I think about ballast in a powerboat. I am looking forward to seeing the Old Codger. Alan asked me last week how I thought she would float, I answered " by the stern" and he said "I think so too". Of course I had prior info, Chick told me that he was going to steer with the tiller. Maybe we can talk him into some sort of bulkhead steering system. It would be more agreeable when he does the Great Loop. She is so light that her moment to trim would be small, maybe a few cans of vienna sausages and a couple of Linda Ronstadt tapes stowed in the bow will trim her out and leave the stones ashore.
  36. 1 point
    You came to the right place. I built a Curlew from Kudzu and Jeff's directions were spot on. Well researched, understandable directions. Lots of support from this site.
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    Yes i wish i would be made a little bit shorter. It is even not easy to get shoes in Size 13. Only Rubberboots and basketballsneakers… 😉
  39. 1 point
    Have made some progress lately on internal members, centerboard, and centerboard trunk. Don't have the internal structures glued-in yet, but I finished the centerboard trunk piece today so I think that will come soon! Have coated both the inside of the centerboard trunk, plus the entire centerboard, with graphite + epoxy mixture to try and minimize friction / binding in the rotation of the board. It starts off very shiny and the sands down to dull grey.
  40. 1 point
    Beautiful design! Reminds me a bit of some keel centerborder that are used here on the german and dutch north sea coast where you have to deal with the shoal waddensea and the deeper but sometimes rough north sea. Do you intend to put her on your website with some more specs and drawings? Are plans available? Could be a perfect boat for the time when retirement comes near…
  41. 1 point
    Here are photos of the ladder parts: Notice the center knots haven't been undone -- and that the beginning & end of each knot has been marked with masking tape. Also, starboard & port so they won't be accidentally switched (hole placements not perfectly symmetrical). Here is a closeup of where the two frames are hinged on the 5/16th rod.
  42. 1 point
    Amos.....just what I needed. Never saw battens like that and couldn't find anything in my plans.......forgot about the vids......
  43. 1 point
    Ken, For nine years I putzed around in my garage building my Bluejacket 25.5. Unable to step back and obtain a panoramic view of my progress, my sense of achievement was limited to completing a task on the build. There was no immediate feedback on how that task interacted with the boat in its entirety. On the bad days on the job, it sure would have been a morale builder to put my tools down, step back and see the boat in its entirety as it was coming together. Last year I pulled the boat out of the garage and for the first time I saw a whole boat. No words can describe my excitement and sense of accomplishment. I know exactly how you felt on the day your boat emerged from her cocoon. You have much to be proud of! Henry Hassell (Bluejacket 28) advised me to paint my boat a camouflage color. I asked why since I’m not a duck hunter. He said because your boat will attract much attention and sometimes it gets too much. You will learn that Henry is right. We look forward to seeing pictures of Rosie romping at sea and you and Luanne docking at the Fairmont Empress Hotel, Victoria for high tea. All the best, Dave
  44. 1 point
    If you were not able to see the post about Old Codgers latest adventure, go to the Boating and Cruising section. It is there in a readable form. Let me know what you think of these stories as a "Picture Essay".
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    That looks awesome. I really like those rounded fronts. I think I'm going to steal this for Skeena.
  47. 1 point
    My dad, who was an accountant, always told me to "check and double check" my homework. To this day, I try to check over what I write before posting it, but, after posting I'll go back and read it and almost always find a misspelled word, word not capitalized that should be, bad grammar, or... So I edit it, check it, and re-post it. Then when I look it over again, guess what! And this is WITH spell checker. I just don't understand it cawse I alwaze spel gud, and mever nake misteaks.
  48. 1 point
    Hi Guys, Thought you all maybe interested in my version of a fold down shade canopy for the timber tub... the front and back stays, once unlocked via hinged tube fittings, fold up and then after the nut on the rear of the gunnel plates are undone, the whole thing pivots forward to rest on the bow plate. A bit confusing at first, but the only way it will fit in my shed. it looks a tad tall but with the low sides of the OB-20 and the fact that I am 6'-9"........ 🤥 I have no say in the matter! Stay safe Trev
  49. 1 point
    The time has finally come to build the next boat (a CS17 Mk3) , but in order to do this I need to sell the one that currently lives in the garage I will use as my work space. Kirsty Ann (CS17 #122) was launched in January 2006, and has provided years of safe and enjoyable sailing on Albert Park Lake, Port Phillip, the Gippsland Lakes, and the Nooramunga Marine & Coastal Park. Her shallow draft meant that we were able to sail up the narrow and shallow channels between the islands behind Wilsons Promontory to camp in some beautiful and remote locations. The boat is coated in BoatCote expoxy, with fibreglass sheathing on the lower chine. For a very low-maintenance finish, she is painted in white Aquacote, with the deck painted in clear Aquacote. A folding cuddy provides a bit of protection from the weather if needed. When stored, the masts lie on crutches that fit into the mast steps. Registered until January 2019, Kirsty Ann is being sold on a Dunbier trailer (registered till December 2018, and comes with a spare wheel), with a Honda 2HP long shaft air cooled outboard, and all the necessary safety gear, including lifejackets. Price: AUD $6500. You can contact me at peter@batchelors.net. Cheers, Peter
  50. 1 point
    Sunday afternoon Jay and Carol in Southern Express, Graham in Carlita, and Sally and I in Skorpa left for a four day cruise to Portsmouth and Ocracoke. Skorpa and Carlita rafted up for dinner in Riggs Creek off Bonner Bay Getting an early start for the crossing to Portsmouth Island Southern Express and Carlita heading to Portsmouth Island We made it! The Coast Guard station at Portsmouth Island Climbing to the observation deck. Looking West toward the mainland. Looking East across the Ocracoke Inlet After exploring Portsmouth we headed across the inlet to Ocracoke. We anchored in Silver Lake. Wednesday Carlita and Skorpa sailed back to Chapel Creek. Southern Express followed on Thursday.

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