JeffM

Welcome aboard! Keep us posted.

Cap't Clayton, I think I speak for others when I say it's time for the full story! First build, huh? Dunno--hard to believe. Anyway: What are your plans for this boat? How is the cabin laid out, and how is it for useable space? Why the skirt? What's with the funny rudder that looks like it thinks it's a daggerboard? Out with it, man!

Something like this question came up for me recently when I wanted to keep rainwater from flooding my cabin. I decided to build low bulkheads under the thwart, deciding that ones six inches high at the cb trunk would allow the boat to take about an inch of rain in the cockpit without slopping over into the cabin. Then I got to wondering whether, if I left the bailer open, any additional rainwater would simply exit the bailer. It would all depend on where the waterline of the boat with flooded cockpit came compared to my little bulkheads. After looking at how high the water came in my centerboard trunk while underway, I gave up the idea immediately! Bottom line is, I think the idea wouldn't be practical. May as well deck over the cockpit, leaving only a footwell.

Duckworks has nice ss Herreshoff style open base cleats. Nice place to tuck a spliced loop for docking, etc. Get 'em bigger than you think you'll need--you won't be sorry. Watch out for places where cleats might snag running rigging, especially when tacking. Hatch question: is fore hatch useful for funnelling air below for ventilation? That's the main reason I can think of for hinges aft. (My hatch lifts off and bungees to cabin top to keep out of the way; but is usually closed underway to keep spray out.

Um...Thanks, all. Food for thought. I'd actually considered some sort of light-weight A-frame from the front bumper to the bow, or maybe ties to the stern from a hitch-mounted bike rack that's gathering dust in the garage. I definitely think there'll be some kind of connection to bow or stern or likely both.

Resumed work on the kayak a few weeks ago, and now planning on a christening in a few weeks or so. Got me thinking: 15'10" skinny lightweight boat is going on top of a minivan of same length that has a roof rack only about 3 feet or so long. How can I do this? I am assuming a homemade rig (maybe modified from the one I use for my Piccup Pram) that cradles the boat upright (to protect coaming). But with enormous overhang on each end, I worry about twisting forces of crosswinds, passing trucks, etc. The driving will be minimum half-hour on the highway. What do others do?

I send a float to the masthead that way as a preventive when I feel a bit close to the "edge," especially when I'm single-handing way out, and a bit doubtful of getting aide quickly. Alternatively, big pool noodle can be tied to the mainmasthead when stepping, then the other end brought to the mizzenmasthead with the staysl halyard, making a substantial float that shouldn't have too much windage sailing to weather.

Sorry to have missed you, Dave! I expect you would have spotted me, since the Pond had fewer boats than I remember last year, but how easy would it have been for me to recognized Hirilonde? Thanks Paul and Wes. I was never in doubt that I could fix the boat once I found her and got her home. On the other hand, after 4 years I just can't seem to stop fixing her! I suspect that Dave's signature might just be true--for me, at least.

Good job on the capsize "testing." Paul, you should have said, "I meant to do that!" That no water entered the cabin despite the offset companion--and the flooded locker--accords with my experience. Sounds like the NC100 will be quite an adventure! Armchair racers such as myself will follow you and Dawn closely.

Frame is a work of art. Love looking at it.

Done patching hole in side and bottom, centerboard repaired, new rudder blade made. The rudder blade is a bit shorter and wider than stock, and made of exterior sand pine about 3/4", but the main difference is that, going without double cheeks on the stock, the blade needs more wood (6" instead of 4) around the pivot to lengthen the lever arm against sideways stress. I'm still meditating on a way to keep the cb trunk from spitting at speed. Sponge jammed in the aft end of the slot helps, but bunks still gets wet sometimes. Maybe go to a weighted board in a fully enclosed trunk? That would also mean less yelling at kids to keep cb tackle unobstructed. Maybe a winter project. Photos: 1. Hole resulting after I cut out the damaged area as conservatively as possible (worried about not having big enough scrap okume to patch), and bevelling edge with grinder. 2. Patches for side and bottom made of 1/4". Side patch is reverse-bevelled, since the top of the hole is even with the bottom of the inwale, so there the bevel is on the outside. (Why didn't I just bevel the whole thing on the outside? I figured it was easier to hold the patch in the curving side from the inside.) 3. Centerboard after I beat the h_ out of the trailing edge to free it for the trip home. Damage to the inside of the trunk from jammed pebbles appears to be minimal--but its hard to see properly in there. It's pretty thickly-coated with graphited epoxy, anyway. 4. Centerboard with damage cut out and space filled with thickened epoxy. I did not bother glassing the repair, figuring it is a low-stress area. A 1/4-20 by 3" screw rests in the place I later installed it to provide a place to hammer on the board in future without so much damage. The installed screw is epoxied into place with only the head projecting from the trailing edge, and the head was ground down roughly level with the sides to reduce drag. 5. Contented skipper on a try-out cruise to Cuttyhunk Island. The only problem was that I did not properly caulk either the pivot caps or the trunk cap, so took water pretty steadily in the cabin. Fortunately, Trevor rather enjoys working the bilge pump. Fortunately also all three of us were able to sleep in the cabin without needing the floor. 6. Crew taking a break at the Cuttyhunk Historical Society.

We've had highs in the low 90's lately. My new epoxy trick it to freeze it. I used to make itty-bitty batches for my small jobs, but now I make up 3oz at a time, spread it out in a couple of wide containers, keep it shaded, spread fast, and put leftovers in the freezer with a bit of plastic wrap. (The plastic wrap is mainly to keep water from condensing on the epoxy when I take it out again.) To warm it up, a five minutes or so in the sun is usually enough--feel the temp through the pot. One caution: since it's hard to judge the consistency of the epoxy until it's warmed through, I mix in any thickener before I freeze it. I've had pretty severe run problems when the epoxy softened further after I thought I had the cosistency right.

My aging Snark gave me my first "shipwreck." Went camping overnight on a nearby island (pre-cell phone). Next day was too windy for safety, but I launched anyway, picturing my parents calling the Coast Guard if I didn't come home that day. Boat turtled near shore, gear floating everywhere, aged sail shredded. Sodden as rat dragged all to beach. Spent the rest of that day waving my neon tent at passing motorboats hoping for a lift. One finally took me and my boat and gear aboard, delivered me to my home beach at sunset where my father sat waiting. "Let's go home," he said. After that, he gave me his Sunfish.

I learned to sail in one--windstorm broke mine in half. (Same storm, I wonder?)

Adventures, too, Norman! Tell us about your adventures! Also, when I saw her the interior was unfinished and raw wood: have you gotten her done?

Beautiful boat, Dennis! I find the spritsail to be an intriguing rig: supposed to point as well as a bermudan, and can handle a jib even when unstayed. As far as your experiences, yes the cb trunk spits (I stuff a sponge in the aftermost part of the slot), and yes my bailer begins drawing just past 5kt (it'll gradually flood the cockpit if left open at lower speeds). Your rudder is interesting: do the cheeks drag much? I have been building a new rudder after losing mine, and I don't have patience with the original design. Mine will be similar to Michalak's simple rudders: blade simply bolts to side of stock. I only need to make sure there is enough radius of wood around the pivot on both stock and blade so that it will be strong in sideways stresses.

Bringing your kids into the crew may be even more of a milestone than launching!

Now that's adventure! Sukie, I see you aren't wasting any time.

Paul, if I'd realized what I needed in the first place, I might have gone for a Bellhaven. Turns out I almost never "go sailing," instead I "go adventuring." I want to go places, see things, have experiences. That means longer trips, and a willingness to be out in less-than-perfect conditions. Cape Cod is the Land of Bike Trails--great way to sight-see and get around. But of course (cheap) small boat sailors are stuck with their own two feet. Or are they? I got the idea to haul our three bikes from Plymouth to Provincetown, then ride around. Problems: greatly complicated launch and retrieval, probably cost us about 1/5 of our speed, saltwater eats bicycle transmissions, hard to get bikes ashore near civilization. We did ride, but the few hours on trails probably wasn't worth it. I've since considered a West Marine folding bike that has a lot of stainless steel in it, and even folding kids scooters. But I think I'll stick with feet (and public transit) for now.

I have a cheap inflatable Kayak (Sevylor "Tahiti") that I keep stowed until needed (e.g. anchored in Newport Harbor where there's no place to land casually and the town dingy dock is more than a quarter-mile from the anchorage). After I use it, I sometimes tow it rather than trying to deflate the thing well enough to get it back into its place. I have been surprised at how much load this narrow (though not sleek), 25lb boat puts on the tow line at even moderate speeds. I tend to drag the bow up onto the aft deck to reduce some tendency to plow, and also reduce wetted surface. That helps some. I also once towed my 11' Michalak Piccup Pram across Cape Cod Bay loaded with bicycles. (Don't ask.) It seemed to tow okay, but danced a lot.

I like Gordy's idea of cutting off the tip so that you can get more area with the same draft. Keep in mind also that the centerboard is a sort of lever, so that WHERE you place the weight matters in any board that (like Gordy's) is not meant to be fully weighted. The pivot is the fulcrum. The bouyancy centers on the part of the board that is submerged. The same amount of weight will have the most effect near the tip of the board and least near the pivot. For the same reason, be careful in any test that involves pulling or pushing the board down and measuring the force needed: WHERE you apply the force will influence the amount of force needed.

Would the board so equipped fit into the trunk? And if not how would you shave it down? My cabosil edge is simply slathered roughly into place (maybe in several layers), then ground to shape. Done. Of course, I'm in less danger of hitting big rocks than just scraping bottom in mud, sand and gravel or ocassionally cobbles.

I put a fumed silica & epoxy "shoe" maybe 1/2 inch thick max on the lower end and part of the leading edge. It has taken a pretty fair beating without problems. (I tend to use my board as a depth sounder, the more since I have the downhaul on a releasing clamcleat.)

Congratulations! I don't go out in 20kt winds, much less take my first sail in them. You survived!

Thanks, all--Paul especially for the details. Paul, any clues about knowing the wood is dry enough?