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BillBrush

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About BillBrush

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/28/1969

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    Male
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    Nebraska
  1. Paul reminded me of something I have in my tool box from when my sewer main broke in half (yes it was icky.) A cast-iron sawzall blade (as in a blade for cutting cast iron.) Also works on ceramic and fiberglass IIRC. Basically it's just abrasive on the cutting edge. The blades I have are the 12" variety. With a little care you could probably make short work of the globbies. Avoiding damage to the other parts would be the main issue, but these blades really won't cut anything other than what they're designed for so even some cardboard could be an effective blade guard. If all else fails you might give it a try. Bill
  2. Ok, now this makes sense to me. If my brain hasn't left the beam entirely I can see how this would work for them. They spray in the mold release, which, from something I read earlier today also hardens gel coat. Then they spray the gel coat resin, in one of a variety of colors, then spray the fiberglass resin and lay in the glass. Add the rest of the innards and presto, you have a boat. I could see how this would be superior to painting based on manufacturing technique as it would speed up production greatly, and the finish would be ready-to-sell from the get go. If I'm going to restore a boat, then I can just prep and paint as I would any other surface and it should work. That's good to know. I've been offered a Sunfish that's in need of some TLC so I'm contemplating fixing it up and selling it.
  3. So from what I gather, most people who build their own boats use marine paint as a finish over several coats of epoxy/fiberglass. Most production boats use a gel-coat to finish a straight fiberglass hull. So are gel-coats just a real pain to apply for a home-builder? Too costly? Not appropriate for a plywood boat? Can you take an old tired gel-coated plastic boat and paint it? Could you take a painted boat, sand off the paint and gel coat it? Is there any difference between a gel coat and marine paint (from what I have read the answer is yes.) I'm looking at various and sundry used boats and I'm curious how bad of a job it is to pretty one up. Thanks! Bill
  4. The Snarks are horrendously under-powered, but that's one of the things I think makes them a great beginners boat. Combine that with a hull design that plows through the waves instead of going over them, and that's completely unsinkable, and it comes out to be a very forgiving boat. I've never come close to turtling mine, except last Monday when I was coming into the dock and the main sheet caught on a cleat, turned the whole boat broadside and heeled it over till the rail was almost under. Big fun.
  5. Yesterday the weather was perfect for taking out my little Sea Snark, and I was in need of some wave therapy so I decided I was heading to the lake. My son (7) has never been brave enough to go out on the boat with me, but yesterday he decided it was time. No panic attacks, no second thoughts, he just jumped in and was ready to go. We shoved off, and he LOVED it. He says he's ready to solo now. ;D He was feeling like pretty hot stuff since I let him take the tiller while I pulled the sail up a bit higher . Anyway it's not a home built boat, except for all the rigging, I'll throw some pics in. I am a proud Dad.
  6. LOL. I am not considering buying it, I just wondered if anyone recognized it. IIRC it was posted a few months ago with more detail and a much higher price; and that posting said it was built from a kit. I think it would make a nice runabout for your boys Konrad. You could use it as a tender for the Vacationer. ;D Bill
  7. http://omaha.craigslist.org/boa/1248968520.html Anyone recognize the type of boat? It screams "hand built" to me, but I could be wrong.
  8. Providing non-home-built boats are allowed I'd be interested. I should have a new boat by then, with the toy boat as backup but I don't see any way I can reasonably have one built and ready for launch by then.
  9. BillBrush

    Delurking

    I saw you mention that in another post (I've been lurking around for about a week now.) Congratulations on buying a place. We had a campout for Scouts down at Wagon Train in May, and it's a nice lake, but as you mentioned the trees would make it a bear to sail in. Hopefully we're going to sell the Money Pit real soon now, and I can get the family moved . Maybe this winter I can build a dinghy or something.
  10. BillBrush

    Delurking

    Hello everyone! Well it only took me about 4 months longer than intended but I finally have my house "For Sale" which means that once it goes to "Sold" I can think about getting a new (to me) bigger boat. I'm going to buy a boat to expedite the process of getting on the water and get my kids introduced to boats, and then I'll build one later. (Leaning towards the Super Skipjack) Anyway, it's obvious that there is a great deal of boating experience here so I thought I would get some opinions. Requirements - Able to seat 4 comfortably, and 6 in a pinch. Somewhere around 800-1200 lbs of bodies and gear. Under 20' just simply because I need to be able to store it somewhere. Cartoppable would be ideal, but I think it's a tall order, outside of the Snarks, and I haven't found any Sunchaser II's for sale closer than 800 miles away. Price should be something south of $3000 unless it comes with a free divorce lawyer. Obviously there are a billion options out there, but are there any known lemons to avoid? There was a Newport-Lochley 18 around here, but the Craigslist post expired, which makes me a sad panda. Anyway, I hope you don't mind the question about plastic boats, but if I'm out of line Frank can plonk me. Bill P.S. If you need crew Konrad, let me know. It would be cool to be on a sailboat that you can stand up in.
  11. A belated Merry Christmas guys. I spent Christmas Eve and Christmas with the extended family so I just got home. Tomorrow we get to have one last Christmas dinner and then it's all officially over. I hope everyone got something cool they wanted. Bill
  12. touche' I think steel's probably cheaper though. ;D I haven't found a janka number for redheart, but it is pretty hard. (It's the hardest wood I have personal experience with) I'm guessing that Ipe is much much harder though, so I can't imagine working it with hand tools. Readheart pretty much laughs at my attempts to use a plane on it. I have to say I've never seen a cove technique like yours, and I'm intrigued. Now I'm trying to figure out something to do to try it out. Bill
  13. Info about Ipe: http://www.woodsthebest.com/ipe_decking/ipe-wood.htm It's the 2nd hardest wood after Lignum vitae. Looks like a great substitute for teak except for that whole "not floating" thing.
  14. Well it fits like it was made for them; because it was. I drew out the plan in 1:1 scale on graph paper and fit plan to the stones as close as possible. Now I just have to clean up the mess. Best lesson learned during this build: Double-sided carpet tape (duct tape style) is an AWESOME clamp. I used it for everything from holding down the shell pieces to holding the tray sides to the jig for cutting the splines in the end grain. I even used it to hold the sacrificial fence to the rip fence. In some cases I needed a piece on each board, and then joined them with the double adhesive. Maybe I need to build something to hold some of my other tools. Something like the attached picture maybe. If you've never seen video of that chest it is just unbelievable. Here's some more shots of it at the Smithsonian site. http://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/toolbox/piano.html
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