lsearle

B19 Belhaven, small cabin, good rig, shallow draught - what more could you want! Lawrie Searle Newcastle Australia

Grahame has a recent post on the lug rig,I would think some variation of this could be a really good introduction to sailing for Curt.I remember many summer days trying to tack a naval whaleboat off HMAS PLATYPUS in sydney harbour Although i cant help feeling the cat ketch is still the most forgiving rig to sail. Anyway, the most important thing, is to enjoy SAILING

Outstanding Scott! Or as we say down here, what a ripper, beauty, mate! Lawrie Searle

wow wow wow ... can't begin to say how much I admire anyone who has the skill to do something like this. Reminded of Ted Turner's comment - 'some people can't tell the difference between a boat and a piano'. (Only rottenly jealous!). Makes us workboat finish guys pretty green. Lawrie Searle

Hey Charlie, what an idea! I live next door to a Road and Traffic Authority (Highways Depot). I quite often see busted drums of the very same glass beads lying in the mud. Wow! Air Sea Rescue Helicopters, people anchoring within your scope half an hour before the wind change, speeding jet skis .. I'll be down there with my scoop and a plastic bag later this evening. Lawrie Searle Newcastle Australia

Non skid - the best non skid I have ever used is granulated rubber in a chlorinated rubber base. It sold out here under the name "Deck Tred Marine". It was originally developed for stairwells and access platforms on coal fired power stations. It is soft to sit on, but grips like the proverbial. Used in conjunction with a pair of Okewind windsurfer boots, best grip ever! It is easily touched up without having to do the whole panel, can be tinted using standard painters tinters and slightly insulates the deck. Other than that, we have used an acrylic grit (as used by panelbeaters - bodyshops to you guys), and a texture roller to raise the finish. Agree with Barry Pyatt, you must be able to spot repair and I hate using epoxy on deck. Lots of luck Lawrie Searle

OK guys, internet is a wonderful thing ain't it. It seems we have all been circling the same dead beast. The article I've got is the Goodwin one that Charles has. So now we all have a copy of it and the internet link at last. Lawrie Searle

Charles, I have a copy of an article by Paul Goodwin from March 1990 titled "A Wooden Mast made easy". I think it is probably the method referred to by Charlie Jones earlier in this posting, but I could be wrong as I am redoing all my files at the moment. It is for a wooden mast made of all straight machined timber with a slotted aluminium tube glued in to make the luff groove. I have sent details of my contact as a private message but am not sure if I have done it right, as I have never sent one before on this forum. Lawrie Searle

me tooo had planned on a 7.5 kg bruce can send exact dimnensions if required [for b 19]lawrie from oz

gee separate' em if you want antiskid, use it.if you just want to reduce glare, adjust thegloss by adding more or less gloss topcoat to semi gloss basecoat p s everywhone in our house waits with bated breath for your photos so dad [me] can glue another bit to the boat,guess you didnt realise i am about two chapters behind you' lawrie searle.happy new year to all

Mr Jones you do good work! It has always worried me putting anything absorbent into a boat when in admittedly extreme conditions it could absorb water, i.e. going to windward with a few litres of loose bilgewater. I guess the wooden lining over the polyurethene insulation will stop it becoming wet. Years ago I saw a Nordic folkboat with batten linings to the ceilings. When I admired the ventilation they provided, as well as looking good, the owner told me the reason he installed them was so he could tie everything down to them with little bits of marline in bad weather! L. Searle

Two words - cork tiles. The coarsest finish you can get, preferably pre-proofed or use a clear sealer before glueing on with something that won't give you nightmares if you ever have to replace one, i.e. PVA or strong contact cement. Do not use epoxy! You can paint them if you want to change the colour, we can get them here with various tinted colours, e.g. greens, blues etc. The second part of the solution is a small Mini-Cat catalytic heater using white spirit. Don't know what you guys call it over there. Third part - a big dorade forward on the boat and some sort of windsock or chute in nylon fitted to any hatch after the mast. Good luck, Lawrie Searle

o k guys,how about heavy plywood for the bottom panels, and okoume fo r the rest?[plus blue foam composite for the coachroof] same schedule for fiberglass. just a thought from an old sydney skiffie

Yup Frank, you got it in one. A very common problem in enamels of any kind. I generally find it Saturday morning because I was in a hurry to get the cheque from the nice man on Friday. There are two kinds of "dry", dry and through dry. The only good thing about the problem is the top layer will come off easily and the bottom layer will probably still be wet. I recently painted a "heritage" bank building and discovered some paint layers that were still sticky to the touch after 150 years. Lots of solvent and rags will get you back to square one. Lawrie Searle

if all else fails,you can always use satin varnish to flat down any compatible enamel [ same thinners ] Add one quarter by volume ,mix well ,let stand for ten minutes or so, brush a little on to test gloss level when dry.

Hi Scott, don't beat up on yourself, you have a beautiful looking boat. Only trouble is my wife will not believe I can't get ours to look the same! I hadn't planned on any more than a semi-gloss workboat style finish and I reassured her that Graham's design is as steady as rock - wouldn't take water over the rail and she could knit while we sailed it!! Oh dear! Keep up the splendid work Lawrie Searle Newcastle Australia

Hi Rob, loved the pics, wish I'd been there but broken arms don't help. The boat you named "my star of the show" is a John Wellsford 6m Whaler. Plans are available for those interested at either www.duckworksmagazine.com/store/plans/jw/6mwhaler, or www.jwboatdesigns.co.nz. I just noticed every reply I have posted (both of them) has mentioned a John Wellsford design. I do not have any connection with him, but boy, can he draw a sheerline. Lawrie Searle

Hi Rob, best boom tent I have ever seen is in John Welsford's study plan for his 17ft. Walkabout design on www.duckworksmagazine.com/store/plans/jw/walkabout He uses oar rowlock fittings in the gunwhale or adjacent to hold fibreglass hoops to support a tent. Lawrie Searle Australia