lsearle

Scheesh' Everybody knows they slowly morph into wire coathangers1

Or, (a variation of the old guy carrying an oar story ...) buy a small plastic graining comb, wander around any place where tradesmen congregate until someone recognises it, he'll be a painter. Ask him to get two shades of brown satin enamel and grain your metal mast.

Wellsford " Sweetpea", Selway Fisher Highlander ,and carefully check Atkin " Sailboats under 20 ' "

Is that an Austin 7...?

Hell Grahame, she is so beautiful! Billy Thorpe died today ,so an EC 22 called Almost Summer is mandatory. Cheque follows. Are plans available yet?

you are missing yellow from yellow/magenta / cyan. But from a cell???Old photographer, newbie techo.

hey Norm, I'll gladly swap you. 10.pm,87 fahrenheit, just moved two boats after a severe tropical storm [with golf ball sized hail]. was going to spray two pack poly tomorrow,fat chance. love the photos. BRR'

Deadrise and rocker are there for a reason.Take a 26' flat bottomed boat into a 3' chop and you will discover, people get hurt, things break.

We have been using exactly this method for 20 years to pull the bubbles out of two pack varnish in cold weather! then we heat the surface to about +5 over ambient and apply. Is there a " best " kind of rope to use? Is poly better than Nylon ?

Go to.http:// cullisonsmallcraft.com/pastpage. Same design. " D.T.P "[alias DON'T TELL PHIL because of my hopelessly feeble attempts to improve on the rig ] was the victim of an end of marriage sale. Last seen moored in an oyster lease on the Clarence river.New owner unknown.SLIM,TENDER, and HARD HEADED. So was the boat.

Maybe everything we believe is 'real science' now, would have been regarded as science fiction a while back; and will be looked at as comical nonsense sooner than we expect. hopefully,someone,somewhere, will be sailing something he built.

If you add energy [heat] to a chaotic system[the atmosphere], you get more frequent,and more violent events.If it isn't man causing global warming, we have an uncontrollable problem. We can change our behaviour.we can't change the universe,I like Kevin Costner's solution in WATERWORLD. Do what humans are good at, adapt.Denying the problem will only delay the inevitable.

Rude blighter ain't I ? congratulations Grahame on your win! The photo of the two exhausted bodies, fast asleep under the tarp,goes onto my motivational gallery. Sure beats sanding.

confirmed,no joy on b19 and Princess my end 15/11/o6.

love the jig! The great thing about Grahames boats, you are in control of the hull shape [ within limits], and once you get over the basics, EPOXY IS YOUR FRIEND !

If you prefer the foam/glass, check out www.ikarus342000.com/Woodepoxy.htm Goodluck.

O K. Charlie,never too old to learn,where do we sheet the mizzen halliard.? I have only the vaguest running rigging details on my B19 plans.I guess as a running backstay it will be about two thirds of the mizzen foot back,and as far out board as possible?HELP.

At the end of a long hard week, i have just stumbled across this posting.I am as irish as any australian not ashamed of he convict stain.I can give it to you in gaelic if you care .I just want to apoligise to my American friends . Not all Australians are so ignorant. I remember Midway. Out here we call Queensland DEEP NORTH. My web address is at PROFILE .The forum is for boats.

Scott, go to: www.cmdboats.com/trailersailer32.htm?cart id-847914045d2cadede68dda17bdf291c

Ideally,a mizzen staysl performs best as a reacher.You can'tget much drive out of it too close to wind,and on more than a broad reach you will start backwinding the main.If you fancy an extra haly'rd or two,you could try a mizzen genoa for close reaching, and a mizzen spinnaker for tacking downwind. BUT, Grahames cat ketches are unstayed,so you cannot get the luff tension that will make manyof the usual complement of racing sails useful.For all this stuff try finding SAIL POWER byWallace Ross PUB. ADLARD COLES.Then again,remembering these are small light boats;fill her with liquid ballast,[ consumable],and in the company of a few friends,just experiment.

First problem,whose epoxy?Some of them produce so much amine bloom that no alkyd enamel can adhere.Rember, epoxy is a glue, not a paint.So start by wet sanding with360-400 wet n dry.When you have a matte finish,you are guaranteed a good mechanical bond.Do not be tempted to use a coarser grade of abrasive.Use plenty of dishwashing liquid in water and rinse well.Never use a solvent. We have had great sucess using another Zinsser product,marketed here as Cover Stain.It is one hour dry,although you should still do a SPLIT TAPE test at about 4 hours to be sure.Unlike B>I>N> it is alkyd [oil] compatible. Most porch and decking enamels have additional hardeners,either Cobalt or true terebines tospeed through [thru? in Yankspeak] drying. If you have the time,leave the undercoat/sealer a week to harden,in the sun,but out of the rain.never cover an undercoated surface with a plastic sheet.And remember,three unthinned coats of topcoat enamel,WELL LAID OFF ,i e.each coat brushed thin.The more you aerate the enamel by brushing,the more durable[and glossy] the finish.

Seriously,any wind rode boat [more boat above water than below ]will sheer about at anchor, and most centerboarders are the very devil to control at speeds before flow is established over thefoils .Grahame has come up with an elegant solution on the Bellhaven by having a short stub keel parallel to th partially exposed centreboard. This will allow control at low speed. Someone on this forum has already suggested leaving the centreboard partially down to give the same effect. Fiddling about with the distribution of sail area in relationship to immersed centeboard will give you basic stabilit as long as you are moving forward, i.e. more sail area aft will tend to make the boat luff (bow to wind). Good luck!

Same rules as bears.Wear a loose garment;and avoid eye contact.

Two Atkins, One Bolger,BELHAVEN in build.

Atkin Valgerda, Atkin Ben Bow II, Bolger Wisp ,BELHAVEN 19