bylawren Posted June 30, 2016 Report Share Posted June 30, 2016 An additional question for Short Shot builders: What length did use for the four "extra" bottom stringers in the rear cockpit area (i.e., between the cross member at 6' and the one at 7'1")? I was thinking about leaving a inch of so extra on each end of the stringer so that the lashing would have plenty of purchase. I was also thinking of rounding them (on the ends) a bit to make a smoother transition for the cloth. If anyone can post a picture of this section, completed, I would be *very* grateful. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted June 30, 2016 Report Share Posted June 30, 2016 I can't post any picture, but I did something like you describe at the end of short stringers, the foredeck stringers on my Curlews. It makes for a nice transition under the cloth. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzu Posted July 1, 2016 Report Share Posted July 1, 2016 Rounding them is a good idea if you hit something and it lifts the skin into those. And just long enough to lash them in place. Try one before you commit, I have cut them a little short and it's hard to lash. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilotlon Posted July 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2016 An additional question for Short Shot builders: What length did use for the four "extra" bottom stringers in the rear cockpit area (i.e., between the cross member at 6' and the one at 7'1")? I was thinking about leaving a inch of so extra on each end of the stringer so that the lashing would have plenty of purchase. I was also thinking of rounding them (on the ends) a bit to make a smoother transition for the cloth. If anyone can post a picture of this section, completed, I would be *very* grateful. Thank you. There are actually 8 of those short stringers, aren't there? That's what I have, and I also left about 3/4" extra on each end for the lashing. In the section just fore of the 7'1" frame, they also provide a little support for the floorboard. I'm also adding a seat. Pictures: - finished seat stringers -.the seat -.the floorboards in place - easing of the front floorboard, just in case the skin rises there - where floorboard section ajoins frame 7'1" . Still have to sand and seal all edges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Tiger Posted July 1, 2016 Report Share Posted July 1, 2016 Why the floorboards, again? Also, if you want to know where the skin will be, a strap, piece of string, or scrap of cloth can be wrapped around the frame, depending on how, and how much, you want to see. That will give you an idea of the lay of the cloth when it's on. You're getting close! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilotlon Posted July 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2016 Mmmm, floorboards and seat mostly because I wanted 'em. The floorboards are actually in the assembly manual, which got me to thinking about a matching seat. Some of it is for the pure joy of working with wood, too. Hope to get the footrests installed over the next day or so, and have just started the laminated coaming. With some luck, I'll be on the water by mid July. Found a very good sale price on a folding, roof-mounted kayak rack today also, complete with tie-downs and security straps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Tiger Posted July 1, 2016 Report Share Posted July 1, 2016 Well, I guess I should read the book. I have never had anything between me and the skin before, except for these boats, in the seat area. My steam rib boats have all been designed so my butt and heels fall between frames. I've only ever sat on the skin in these type of boats. It's like wearing waders, because it feels like you're getting wet, and you can feel the change in water temps. I like skin boats... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzu Posted July 2, 2016 Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 The floorboards are actually in the assembly manual, which got me to thinking about a matching seat. I don't mean this ugly or mean spirited but....NO! NO! NO! Better read that manual again! The seat sit on the slats, no board is needed on top and I do not call for one. There should be no other floors in the boat. They just add weight and serve no other purpose! By adding floors you just cut down foot room by 3-4 shoe sizes. I doubt you will get you feet in boat with those in place. Your not the first either, people always want to add floors but 'back away and toss those floor boards!" Here is how the inside should look... well close anyway. This is the only photo I could find, I thought I had one looking from the back. Your feet rest on the skin, it will not hurt the fabric, if it isn't strong enough to take your feet rubbing on it we have some other more serious issues! You don't want to add anything makes you sit higher. 1/2" extra height will make the boats MUCH less stable! Sometime paddle the boat then pull the seat out and just sit on the slats. It is like a different boat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzu Posted July 2, 2016 Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 Just found this. This is before skinning but this is a finished Short Shot frame ready for skinning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Tiger Posted July 2, 2016 Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 You know, since my last back injury (a real serious one) I can't sit in those tractor style seats anymore. Something about it causes my leg to fall asleep instantly. Sad, too, because I had a few for my hard boats. For my own skin boats I always sat on the skin or a chamois pad, so I tried it in my freeb, just sitting on the seat slats on a pad. Very comfy. My experiments sitting in the firefly frame indicate my folded chamois pad will be more than adequate for the little nest of slats there under the booty. Incidentally, the chamois is also a genius swim towel and bailing rag... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilotlon Posted July 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 OK, I hear you, but in Ch 7, p 61, illustration 155, you have fairly complete directions on installing the floorboards. My assembly manual is only dated 11 May 2015. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzu Posted July 2, 2016 Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 I just came back to say that maybe there is something that is written wrong in the manual and was going to ask about that. It wouldn't be the first time there was something that wasn't clear. Let me find mine and read this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzu Posted July 2, 2016 Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 Things like this are why I rare buy more than 30-40 manuals at a time. Everyone reads it a little different. Seems I am making some little addition like this every few months. I will add a note in there that Short Shot, Long Shot and Firefly need no additional floors. I think it is clearer on the other boats because the floors are on the plans and there is only two notches in the frames to put floors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilotlon Posted July 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 Things like this are why I rare buy more than 30-40 manuals at a time. Everyone reads it a little different. Seems I am making some little addition like this every few months. I will add a note in there that Short Shot, Long Shot and Firefly need no additional floors. I think it is clearer on the other boats because the floors are on the plans and there is only two notches in the frames to put floors. No harm done. Only spent $9.87 for the 3/8" ply. It really would not have added much height, and the seat part was nicely curving to fit the slats in the area of...er...kayaker cheeks! However, I'll ditch all that and move on to the footrests tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilotlon Posted July 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 Working on the coaming today. I found that repurposing some floring worked the best. I'm using 3/4" strips of solid oak, 1/8" thick. With the heat gun, it relaxes pretty quickly and I was surprised to find that it bent around the smaller end of the coaming blank with relative ease, where cedar, pine, and Douglas Fir all snapped easily. I hope to be finished with the coaming this week and actually be about ready to skin "Freedom" by next weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilotlon Posted July 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2016 Well, the fabric cutter might have been a bit pricey, but I'll use it in other projects. And, it was just worth every penny being able to quickly cut away the excess fabric. No top stitching yet. I'll start on that tomorrow. But, with the excess fabric cut away, it's beginning to actually look like a kayak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Tiger Posted July 11, 2016 Report Share Posted July 11, 2016 I always like this part. It feels like trying to wrap a kayak as a present. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilotlon Posted July 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2016 LOL.....no problem guessing what it is, when it goes under the tree at Christmas, however. Friends told me I should name it "Casper The Kayak". Planning to start stiching the top tomorrow. Using Corey Freedman's video, and double-corded process. Also using his coaming with the rope-edged spray skirt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilotlon Posted July 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 I started the skinning today, and almost finished the bow. I highly recommend the welting cord seam, and I used Corey Freedman's video...watched it over and over until I was comfortable with the whole procedure. I'm really pleased with the results. I also watched his video for deck rigging without hardware, and I plan to follow that video when rigging time comes. The painter knots idea came from animatedknots.com, as I just didn't like any other solution that I had seen to this point. I'll do the same thing in the stern over the next day, or two. Hope to be painting by this weekend. I'm using the new 6oz polyester, and couldn't be happier with the results. It's just as tight as a tick, and I could play drums on it. Very few wrinkles, especially when using this two-cord stitching process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted July 14, 2016 Report Share Posted July 14, 2016 I don't know that the decorative knot painter is any better per se, but I bet it works well and it does look great. I use Turk's head knots as oar buttons and other applications as well as other decorative rope work. It is a salty thing to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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