Outboard for the Spindrift 11?

[Starboard]

The external tank mod works pretty well when running along at full speed. There's nothing like having the capability of motoring for a few hours when the wind has died and you just want to get to the harbor.

 

I wanted to avoid the situation of hanging off the stern of my J/24 in the dark and in swells trying to get a third of a gallon after the motor has died. Spilling gas all the while. Every 45 minutes. I've done that dance way too many times.

 

I can't really imagine needing that much capability on my Spindrift- we'll just use the motor to get from our mooring to the dinghy dock. Speaking of motors on a Spindrift, I shaped 2 little pieces of plywood that fit over the upper rudder gudgeon on the outside and the gudgeon bolts on the inside so there's no interference with the Nissan 3.5 motor mount. I'll attach them to each other with 2 little pieces of line- it should help protect the boat too. I'll post photos once i've painted the pieces.

[SteveKos]

Hi all. I thought I would offer a bit of a report on my first outing with the new Tohatsu 3.5 2 stroke.

 

I got to try out the new motor a week or so ago. I don't have any images, and it wasn't the ideal experience I had envisioned.

 

Firstly, I decided to launch the boat from a local boat ramp instead of on the beach, to make it easier (or so I thought) not having the waves to deal with when launching. Also as my 4wd currently has some issues with the transfer case not selecting properly, I almost got bogged on the beach last time without 4wd.

 

Thing got off to a less than satisfactory start because, having never launched my boat (or any boat) from a boat ramp before, I totally embarrassed myself trying just to reverse down the ramp. I had to keep going forward to straighten up, time after time, and had to admit to one bystander that I was out for my first try-out with the new motor. He just smiled (probably thought I was a total loser).

 

Anyway I finally got her launched, but as I headed out of the marina it became obvious that the forecast 10 knot winds were grossly inaccurate to the low side. The wind and swell put my (non) skills to the test with a brand new motor that I had never started on the water. Fortunately the motor started and ran flawlessly throughout.

 

The first mistake I realised I had made was not installing the dagger board. Once I cleared the breakwater, the first tweak of the throttle and subsequent lurch forward brought spouts of water rushing up the trunk and all over me and into the bilge every time I hit a wave. It was enough that after about 5 minutes I had to reduce speed to a crawl to allow me to make some headway with the bailer bucket. (My newly installed Anderson Bailer was useless as all the weight was to the stern and the bailer was totally out of the water).

 

Also, I had not fitted the rudder, thinking that steering with the motor would be the best option. Again - WRONG. I would have been far better fixing the motor in position and steering with the rudder. The tiller is much longer than the little handle on the motor, and the resistance to steering was more than I had expected. Also, due to the gudgeon pins installed in the centreline of the transom, I had to mount the motor to one side, which led to some unpredictable steering in the swell.

 

A minor incident I must also report. After a brief stint downwind where I could open up the throttle just a little, I heard a noticeable 'crack' coming from the transom. I immediately throttled off and took a look. I couldn't see any damage at the time, but after I had returned and had the boat on the trailer, I noticed a fine crack along the join where the transom strengthener and the aft decking meet. The leverage that the thrust made against the transom was enough to just cause a fine crack. So, other than simply sealing the crack, I now have to find a way to strengthen the joint. I think a stainless steel angle bracket will do the trick, but I will have to find one suitable.

 

Finally, to add insult to my embarrassment, when I returned from the outing, I destroyed my new phone when I waded too far into the water to lift the boat on the trailer. I bought a new Sony Experia Z2 recently, which is supposed to be waterproof. Unfortunately I had broken the rear panel in a minor motor-scooter accident, and had the panel replaced. Unfortunately the repairer didn't make the repair as waterproof as it was when new, and enough water got in to kill the phone (or so I thought). Fortunately I have since had word from my insurance company that the phone is only slightly damaged and is being repaired under warranty!

 

So, to lessons learned:

 

1. Practice reversing up and down the driveway with a boat trailer before displaying your poor skills on a public boat ramp.

2. I will take the rudder and centre board with me next time I take the boat out with the motor. The centre board will, I'm sure, provide better steering stability and prevent the 'whale ahoy' spouts of water from rushing up the trunk into the boat. An alternative is just to cover the slot with duct tape, which might work while I think of a more satisfactory fix. (Maybe a mini centre board that will just fill the slot).

3. Next time I will fit the rudder and fix the motor in place and steer with the tiller (and extension) rather than the handle on the motor.

4. Put the phone in a dry-bag, or leave it at home.

5. I will fit a strengthening bracket to the transom and rear deck for extra insurance against stress damage.

 

Other than that, the motor is fantastic. Lots of power for a little 3.5, and in less choppy conditions I think it might even get me up on a plane.

 

I think the next trip out will be a trial with the motor fitted when under sail. Hopefully in lighter conditions.

 

Cheers.

[LennieG]

Steve-

Thank you for putting yourself out there and sharing this story! I can see how all that happened and your sharing it will help many of us as we enter that phase. I was told at the mess-about by Graham to add about five layers of glass at the joint between the transom stiffener and the keel batten on the 17 as well, which although was not your issue may help others as well.

[Howard]

Steve:

 

Nice report. I can remember launching a new 16 foot fishing boat years ago........memorable.......but not in a good way, as I had one screaming infant, one over excited toddler and one impatient spouse dealing with it all who thought 15 minutes was more than enough time for a shakedown cruise.

 

Anyway, a couple of suggestions. Your dagger board and rudder may not be what you want at the speeds you might get from an outboard. Rather than bringing your dagger board, you might want to consider a plug for the dagger board case. Have it stop flush with the bottom of the boat, and do plan to tie it down so the water pressure doesn't force it up and out.

 

If the motor is too stiff to turn, look for a tension adjustment. Most outboards will have one. Larger sailboats with fixed rudders use rudders to steer with, but most never operate at speeds beyond sailing speed. Unless your foils are perfect, once you get up to speed, your foils will vibrate something awful, not to mention the drag they create and if you hit anything with them at speed, you won't like the outcome. You should be able to steer just fine with your outboard with just the motor alone. If the gudgeons are in the way consider a pad on either side of them or if the rudder isn't along, removing them to put your outboard on the centerline. Of course if you are sailing then you will need a way to mount an offset motor and will need to have your foils installed, but don't plan on it being a high speed adventure.

 

As for the crack, most powerboats have a substantial brace from the top of the motor mount to the keel. The force, however, is not forward, but backwards. The prop thrust is pushing forward, but the leverage at the motor mount is aft, meaning the top of your transom is being pulled aft. The torque is enough to lift the bow. So when you are looking to install bracing, try to make it some type of triangle that extends from near the motor mounts to the keel. I have an 18 foot float boat that just uses a metal strap for this.

[Designer]

 

Steve,

 

That was quite an adventure, thanks for sharing.

 

The crack in the transom should not have happened. I have attached a picture of the plan showing the transom detail. The torque from the propellor thrust is trying to twist the transom. Because the mounting screws are clamped to the transom stiffener, it is trying to open the joint to the filler piece. The joint between the transom stiffener and the filler is a butt joint, it cannot carry the loads imparted from an outboard. There should be an outboard pad glued over that joint to carry the tensile loads imparted by the outboard.

 

I highlighted the butt joint in red, the outboard in blue 

[Starboard]

I also ran my Spindrift 10N with the same Nissan/Tohatsu 3.5 two stroke this weekend for the first time. I think she motors beautifully and while I'd like a motor with a little more power, that would increase the weight. I guess we won't be waterskiing behind the Spindrift! We did use it as a snorkeling platform in Catalina, however. It's easy to drop over the side and then pull yourself back in.

 

While I had the same issue of the water coming in the daggerboard case, I was prepared for this and my friend had a PFD he held over it while we were motoring. I'll build a plug for it soon. I agree with the others that the rudder and daggerboard are not desirable for motoring.

 

On my transom I doubled up in my lateral stiffener. The plans call for 3/4 pieces that act as the transom stiffener, and then a smaller piece of plywood that is on the centerline. I made that plywood piece the full size as the rest of the stiffener. You can see that in the photos below.

 

As for the motor not working on the centerline due to interference with the rudder gudgeons have a look at the little plates I made that fit over the stern (and are sized perfectly for the Tohatsu as well)