NY_Rocking_Chairs Posted August 10, 2014 Author Posted August 10, 2014 Yeah, pretty close to the pic woodman. Though the angle gauge was about an inch away from the blade line so it wasn't going to pass over the blade. Just curious why you say no wonder, made plenty of these kinds of cuts before without incident, is there a better way to do it? Quote
woodman Posted August 10, 2014 Posted August 10, 2014 The larger piece secured to the fence , the off fall to the outside of the blade...Stand off to the side "of the line of fire" of the blade when cutting, and turn off the saw before removing the off fall piece away from the blade.....This is the way I have always done it... Quote
NY_Rocking_Chairs Posted August 10, 2014 Author Posted August 10, 2014 Thanks Woodman, I don't think this would have worked in this case as the taper started 34" from the end of the board so the angle gauge would have had to be off the table. Will keep this in mind for future cuts though! Quote
Action Tiger Posted August 10, 2014 Posted August 10, 2014 I'm such a chicken, this is how I cut long tapers. Just don't drop that slick on your toe... Glad you are healing. Quote
NY_Rocking_Chairs Posted August 10, 2014 Author Posted August 10, 2014 Here is both halves of the floor installed. I tried gluing the brackets to the keel, but there wasn't enough surface area to support the weight and as soon as I flipped the boat upside down the floor fell down, or is it up?. So I drilled some holes in the brackets and lashed it to the keel, that sucker isn't going anywhere now...there is still a caul in the middle where the two halves meet, the floor boards are glued to the horizontal brace/bracket assemlies. Quote
woodman Posted August 10, 2014 Posted August 10, 2014 On those long pcs. I probably would have band sawed them, then finished them up on my edge sander.... I built a taper jig for band sawing a particular paddle from a cedar 2X4.... Quote
NY_Rocking_Chairs Posted August 11, 2014 Author Posted August 11, 2014 All skinned out and ready for paint. Took Jeff's advice and picked up a pair of canvar pliers. Those worked awesome, the skin was drum tight before I ironed it. Very impressed...(sometimes I even amaze myself). Used a soldering iron to hot cut the fabric, worked well, but VERY slow... Quote
NY_Rocking_Chairs Posted August 11, 2014 Author Posted August 11, 2014 Thanks. I also ended up putting brass screws into all the floor boards where they intersected with the horizontal brackets. Where the ends met in the middle the glue joints were not holding (there was some damage when the floor fell out) so had to re-glue there and screw them in place to hold them. Since I liked the look of it and wanted consistency I went back and added all 54 screws, but most of them are cosmetic... Woodman, good point. I tried to cut the taper on the floor boards when they were still 5' x 6". If I had cut them down to the 2" width before trying to cut the taper the smaller pieces would have fit on the edge sander and could have done it all without the TS...I also think I chipped a tooth on the blade though I couldn't visually find any issue, the V isn't as clean as it was before the incident and the blade seems to be chipping rather than cutting, so off to the sharpening service... Quote
Sobrevida Posted August 11, 2014 Posted August 11, 2014 i can't believe how quickly you are getting this done. it's been great watching your build. the skin looks fantastic! how's the arm? hope it's well. Quote
Action Tiger Posted August 12, 2014 Posted August 12, 2014 I have built some steampunk thingies. Those cats like their polished wood and brass. So do I! Quote
NY_Rocking_Chairs Posted August 15, 2014 Author Posted August 15, 2014 Here are the painted pics, waiting for the racing stripes to dry so can touch up the bleed-through spots...unfortunately I did find some broken teeth on the table saw blade from the kick-back incident so it was mailed out yesterday for repair. So no rub rails for this boat for a week or two...though I did get some keeleasy for the bow and stern so will apply that after all the painting is dried and done as well. Quote
P Doug (WA) Posted August 15, 2014 Posted August 15, 2014 Really looks nice. Can't wait to see launch pictures! Quote
Action Tiger Posted August 15, 2014 Posted August 15, 2014 I bet that red looks sweet right next to those breasthooks, eh? Or the other way round? How's your wrist? Quote
NY_Rocking_Chairs Posted August 15, 2014 Author Posted August 15, 2014 No idea how the red looks next to the breasthooks, waiting for the paint to dry 100% to flip it back over Wrist is good, full range of motion back, still a lump in the muscle, no idea if that will ever go away... Quote
NY_Rocking_Chairs Posted August 16, 2014 Author Posted August 16, 2014 The keeleasy didn't work out on the canoe, it was too tight of a radius to get it to bend and mold to the curve, even with copious amounts of heat gunning. So I reverted back to my original plan, which was aluminum strips (36" x 1/2" from Lowes were ~$2.50 each). I installed those with SS screws and looking at the space between the edge of the metal and the end of the canoe and holding a tube of paintable silicon in my hand, I thought hmmm, wonder how it will work out if I fillet those spaces with the silicon. So not only did the screw threads get siliconed, I went back with a plastic butter knife and filleted the little space between the edge of the metal band and the fabric of the canoe. Once it has cured I will lightly sand the silicon to remove any imperfections and paint it all with the Rustoleum to match the boat. Thoughts? I figured since even when cured the silicon will have a little flexibility it should be fine, main concern is drying out the moisture that gets in there, but I am confident in the water-proofiness between the skin and the interior wood...Also, I packed those gaps with as much silicon as I could squeeze in there so there is little or no air space in those areas anymore. Quote
NY_Rocking_Chairs Posted August 16, 2014 Author Posted August 16, 2014 Shots of the boat now that painting is 100% complete and flipped over so can see red against the wood, weighs in at 45lbs, which I attribute to the heavy floor that went in to this one (1/2" 5x5 sheet weighs 43 lbs, and ~9 sq ft of it went into the floor so around 15-16 lbs by my estimation): Quote
Action Tiger Posted August 16, 2014 Posted August 16, 2014 Red is such a nice color for a canoe. I have had pretty good luck with silicone on various stash boats I've built. That's a boat that remains stashed close to a sweet spot, so looks loos don't see you bringing your boat. They are always cheap enough to lose. I think you should be fine, at least until you grind down the aluminum and wear out the skin... Quote
NY_Rocking_Chairs Posted August 20, 2014 Author Posted August 20, 2014 Just got back from our level 1 kayaking class, took my Greenland paddle, the instructor was all over it, he loved it and wanted me to make him one too. Class was well worth learning basic stroke technique, spent 2 hours in the class and a little more than half of it on the water. Only one out of 6 students fell in doing a draw stroke (wasn't me). Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.