Sobrevida

Thanks again. That makes a lot of sense. And if I had to choose between over thinking and under thinking, I'd choose over!

even-keeled..thanks for the reply. When I did the original lofting, I was concerned because there are a lot of stringers converging in a little space, and I was worried that the plywood wouldn't be strong enough. Then I saw Uncle Frosty's pictures and it looks like he just tied the stringers to the keel before they reached that second frame... so now I don't know what to do.....

One more...sorry...it looks like you ended that lower stringer BEFORE the 2nd frame. If I read the book right, is it supposed to meet before or after? While lofting, I noticed there is little room to cut notches in the 2nd frame, so your way would seem to solve my concern. thanks again!

It looks like you have a stringer that runs on the inside. Was that part of the plans or a modification?

your skin looks super tight. any advice for getting the bow and stern stapled instead of sewn?

i can't believe how quickly you are getting this done. it's been great watching your build. the skin looks fantastic! how's the arm? hope it's well.

Forgive me for asking, but it seems the options most people use to attach stringers are either lashing or epoxy and screws. Has anyone tried just using stainless steel deck screws without epoxy? I was thinking of trying 3/4" plywood for the frames, then being very careful with drilling and screwing. But before I try this, has anyone else? Stories or advice? Thanks so much

jeff thanks so much for sharing your expertise with all of us messabouts. your book is clear, informative and straightforward. i'm looking to build a stonefly this summer and noticed it's an asymmetric canoe. i have 2 questions.. why? and could a newbie like me just use the same offsets for both bow and stern? would it affect handling too much? again, i'm humbled that people like you actually take the time to write a book, and have a forum like this. cheers, richard