SteveKos Posted March 1, 2014 Author Posted March 1, 2014 Today I encountered a little problem. When I first looked at the plans, I noticed that there were no dimensions for the seat tops. I emailed Graham to ask if I got all the sheets, and he explained that these need to be measured 'as built' instead of 'as drawn'. I now understand what he meant. When I cut one of the centre bulkheads and trial fitted it, I noticed that the angle from the chine to the gunwale was more than the measurements had allowed for (about 6-7 deg.), so it was a poor fit. I think that this is because I used single piece gunwales, instead of a laminated ones, and they pulled the side panels out a bit more than they would have if I had used laminated ones. (It might have something to do with the timber also. Harder gunwale timbers might do this more than softer ones...?) This means that my boat's beam will be a few inches more than the plans indicate. I don't think this is will be much of an issue when it comes to performance, but it meant that I had to re-measure the centre (seat) bulkheads to get a closer fit. It also means that the seats will measure slightly differently to what might have been the case if I had cut them to 'design' specs, which would have meant buying another sheet of ply. (It also means that my side seats will be a little bigger than standard). I guess I could have tried to pull in the sides with ratchet straps to get a better angle, but the stress on the fillets on those little bulk heads would be too great to hold I think, so I'll live with the result I have. Makes me appreciate a little more the 'method in the madness' of designing boats . Quote
SteveKos Posted March 2, 2014 Author Posted March 2, 2014 More photos. Tonight I cut and fitted the notched cleats to the transom and the forward bulkhead, and temp-glued the centre bulkheads in place with hot glue. This is a great way to temporarily fix some parts in place prior to filleting and taping. I use it for all sorts of jobs. It is easily applied, "dries" in seconds and holds quite strongly, but can be cleaned off once the temp fitting is not needed any more, or the tacks can be filleted and taped over. The forward notched cleats for the inner seat stringers. You can just make out the starboard one being held in place while the glue cures. The aft cleats. The centre bulkheads hot-glued in place. I'll fillet and tape them in place tomorrow night. Quote
SteveKos Posted March 4, 2014 Author Posted March 4, 2014 Over the last two days I managed to get a bit done. The centre bulkheads are now glassed, the inner seat stringers are in place and the mast collar and foredeck supports are glued in place. I thought it was about time you saw yours truly. Quote
LennieG Posted March 4, 2014 Posted March 4, 2014 Looking good Steve! ( the boat I'm talking about ) 1 Quote
SteveKos Posted March 4, 2014 Author Posted March 4, 2014 Looking good Steve! ( the boat I'm talking about ) Yes, I promise not to put you off with too many more of me. Quote
SteveKos Posted March 6, 2014 Author Posted March 6, 2014 Today I took the day off. Our daughter and son-in-law left to move interstate for work. I was too upset about them leaving to go to work, so I consoled myself by working on the Spindrift. In this pic you can see the space I have left for the storage locker I am installing aft. It will extend the full width of the boat to make for more storage, with a large sealed hatch on top. I increased the size of the locker to 30cm instead of about 22cm. I intend to take fishing gear, camping gear etc. and need a larger space for storage than the plans allow for. Quote
SteveKos Posted March 6, 2014 Author Posted March 6, 2014 I think it's time to ask what I am sure is a vexed question. What kind of paint and finishes to use? I used a high gloss enamel on my kayak on the hull above the waterline, which looks great and has retained it's high gloss well for over 2 years, but it does sustain scratches and chips reasonably easily. I used an epoxy/graphite coating below the waterline which works well for resisting scratching by making the hull slippery and it looks great, it almost looks like metal-flake paint in the sunlight. On the topsides I used a clear polyester varnish, but it flaked off (I think the brand of epoxy I used doesn't adhere to polyurethane very well), so I just use clear epoxy which I sand and re-coat annually. I store it out of the sun so it doesn't degrade much due to UV. But that was my kayak. This time I'm thinking of painting the Spindrift a cream/beige throughout with clear-finished timber featuring (gunwales, knees and breasthook, transom stiffener, dagger board and rudder gear). For the paint I am not sure whether to go with 2 pack polyurethane or to go with enamel again. For the timber I have a small kit of 2 pack clear poly which will be enough for the timber work. Any suggestions? Quote
Alex Posted March 6, 2014 Posted March 6, 2014 Go the 2 pack poly everytime. It costs more up front but offers much better protection and will last a lot longer. I used Hempel 2 pack poly on my Spindrift 12. Quote
SteveKos Posted March 6, 2014 Author Posted March 6, 2014 Go the 2 pack poly everytime. It costs more up front but offers much better protection and will last a lot longer. I used Hempel 2 pack poly on my Spindrift 12. Thanks Alex. How much will I need? Quote
BostonSailor Posted March 6, 2014 Posted March 6, 2014 Just wanted to jump in to let you know that this is awesome. If you saw my other posts I am thinking about undertaking this project and have very little experience so all this info is great. -Peter Quote
SteveKos Posted March 6, 2014 Author Posted March 6, 2014 Thanks Peter. I have built a boat before, but every project is different, and I felt that a detailed build log for this model would be of benefit not only to me but anyone else who needs more of a 'step by step' guide. I'm glad that you are getting some encouragement from it . Quote
Alex Posted March 7, 2014 Posted March 7, 2014 Hi Steve, It depends on what colour you are going to paint it and how much bright work you are going to have. I bought 2 tins of 750ml for the outside and 2 for the inside, which is plenty. I can't remember how much undercoat I bought. I chose to paint everything, purely for a maintenance thing. However, had I had known how beautiful the Gaboon ply looked with a clear coat on, I would have used more clamps and less screws and left some bright work. Maybe on the next boat I'll do that. Alex. Quote
SteveKos Posted March 7, 2014 Author Posted March 7, 2014 Hi Steve, It depends on what colour you are going to paint it and how much bright work you are going to have. I bought 2 tins of 750ml for the outside and 2 for the inside, which is plenty. I can't remember how much undercoat I bought. I chose to paint everything, purely for a maintenance thing. However, had I had known how beautiful the Gaboon ply looked with a clear coat on, I would have used more clamps and less screws and left some bright work. Maybe on the next boat I'll do that. Alex. Thanks for that Alex. I was inspired by this little beauty when I visited a wooden boat building business locally. I think I'll go for a similar look, but not so much timber finish. Quote
SteveKos Posted March 8, 2014 Author Posted March 8, 2014 Some more pics. These bulkheads for the rear tank took a bit of working out. I ended up cutting 3 to get the shape right for the starboard one, and thankfully the shape was the same for the port one, apart from a bit of fine fitting. Quote
Alex Posted March 9, 2014 Posted March 9, 2014 Hi Steve, It looks like you have glued the sides of your seats in place. I noticed you have no inspection hatches cut out of the sides and the front bulk head. Do you plan on putting any in or not? If not, you may be surprised how much pressure builds up when the boat is in the sun and out of the water. Alex. Quote
SteveKos Posted March 10, 2014 Author Posted March 10, 2014 Hi Steve, It looks like you have glued the sides of your seats in place. I noticed you have no inspection hatches cut out of the sides and the front bulk head. Do you plan on putting any in or not? If not, you may be surprised how much pressure builds up when the boat is in the sun and out of the water. Alex. Yes, I plan on putting hatches in, but i'm still deciding on what type and size. I may make my own or buy them but there are lots of different types and sizes on the market. Because I have customised the rear tank I want to fit a fairly large hatch there and for the side benches I would rather have top opening hatches than side fitted ones for easier access, Quote
SteveKos Posted March 16, 2014 Author Posted March 16, 2014 Latest pics:http:/ Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk Quote
SteveKos Posted March 19, 2014 Author Posted March 19, 2014 Latest pics: Test assembling the daggerboard trunk. Showing the trunk lined up along the centre line. I had to adjust the position of the trunk to suit my sail's CE, but only about 40mm forward. I might as well try to get things as exact as possible. This shot also shows the side benches coated with 2 coats of epoxy to seal them thoroughly. Quote
TN Kelly Posted March 19, 2014 Posted March 19, 2014 Thank you for the pictures, It is soooo helpful to someone contemplating a build. Fine looking job of it too! Peace and Courage Kelly Quote
Hirilonde Posted March 19, 2014 Posted March 19, 2014 Did you build the daggerboard yet? If not, then don't glue up that trunk until you make sure it fits. And I mean the daggerboard is epoxied and painted, ready to use. Then epoxy the insides of the trunk, dry fit (temporarily clamp together) and check for fit with the finished daggerboard Quote
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