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Posted

Any of you guys used actual stick on anti skid paper on the deck as opposed to the sand on glue technic shown in the plan??? I can get that stuff in white and it's waterproof ! Just a tought :?:

Denis


Posted

The best non-skid I have found is awlquip brand beads. It mixes well, wears evenly, and will not discolor like sand. Blend and let sit for around fifteen minutes and stir again, and roll it with a short nap roller, in a taped off patern. Then after tacking up you can just brush or spray over topcoat of regular paint. It comes fine and coarse particles.

Posted

I have the stick on stuff on my plastic Hunter in a few spots. It stays put, looks good and works well. I'm going to use it on my weekender, too.

Posted

I've had sand, finer sand, courser sand, ground walnut shells, minute glass beads, painted canvas as well as the stick on strips in places. They all work and are more or less difficult to apply and maintain, as well as more or less friendly to your bare legs when seated. I've tried various premixed paints with additives and they will work too.

But I really like the looks of the finely ground walnut shells in resin covered by a good deck/floor/porch enamel. Mask off the walk surfaces and it sure is purty. Big advantage is it is easy to do, economical, holds up well and any color you want. You can try some of the feed/farm stores for Agrishell, it is ground walnut shells. Some of the larager pet stores might also sell it.

My preference after using all of the above is to go with the Spantex Self vulcanizing elastomeric membrane. Rolls on, texture is good, (finely ground rubber) (very bare leg friendly), anti-skid characteristics work well, wears well, lasts about 15-20 years on a boat deck. Doesn't leak at seams, can be repaired in minutes. Goes on with a roller on the flat surfaces. But it is pricy, and your colors are very limited. It also doesn't give you that High gloss Fiberglass look if that is what you are going for. It is relatively low sheen and the colors are pretty basic. Gray But it should have a top coat and that comes in some other colors.

But that is just my opinion. Couple others are trying it and should have some reports from them soon.

Posted

I used Interlux Polymeric Noskid Compound and it works wonderfully. The directions say to mix it well in the paint and let it sit 10 - 15 minutes to absorb the paint. Mix four to six ounces, by volume, per quart. Two coats give a great finish. I used a three inch roller and it dries leaving no roller marks. I did the whole deck. Taping off areas looks really nice, but I want all the traction I can get.

I believe Tom Lathrup sent in an idea for non-skid on varnished companionway steps. He taped off the area he wanted non-skid and varnished it. Then he poured a generous amount of course salt over it and let it dry completely, washed the salt off and wound up with a non-skid varnished surface. The pictures were impressive.

Posted

Yes Ken,

I am putting nice generous fillets in the corners first with no place to grab anything and to make it easier to clean. I'm also cutting some scuppers into the sides and fairing them in. I'll double layer the glass in the scuppers after sealing the end grain on the ply. Then glassing the exterior using vinylester resin just like in the video. I've used polyesters, vinylester and epoxies and for this use on these boats I don't see any reason for me to do anything else. But I totally understand those that do use epoxy. And I don't find any fault in their reasoning or in the products such as West Systems or Raka. Good stuff!

The Spantex works well over any of them once they have cured completely.

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