Hirilonde Posted February 7, 2013 Posted February 7, 2013 On small boats line size is more a matter of comfort than strength. Thicker line is more comfortable, to a certain extent any way. I would think 3/8" would be fine, but it is a matter of personal preference. Do you think going thinner would be comfortable? Keep in mind that for saving money you already own the 1/2" sheets. Harken is to marine hardware as Sony is to audio. It is top shelf, but you pay for it. For small boats I find Ronstan perfectly acceptable. Quote
sscoville Posted February 7, 2013 Author Posted February 7, 2013 I like my sheets. The reason I was going to downsize is much of the hardward I've seen is for <1/2" line which is significantly cheaper than the >1/2" variety. Quote
PAR Posted February 8, 2013 Posted February 8, 2013 I like Ronstan engineering better then Harken, which is often over engineered for the tasks. Ronstan is cheaper too. RaceLite has some good stuff, but you have to like simple and stainless.I think 3/8" sheets are the smallest diameter you can comfortably live with. Halyards and other control lines can be smaller, as you don't handle them as much.You can save a considerable amount by making your own stand up, swivel blocks and cam cleat bases. Both Tom and I have posted pictures of this sort of thing previously. Quote
sscoville Posted March 13, 2013 Author Posted March 13, 2013 Peter HK, do you use stand up blocks in combo with your rotating bullseye/cam cleats? I bought the cam cleats with bullseyes and was hoping that was all I needed for the mainsheet, except the block on the end of the sprit. I see Tom uses stand up blocks with his. Quote
Hirilonde Posted March 13, 2013 Posted March 13, 2013 If you didn't use the block at the cleat, how would you keep the angle of the sheet to the cleat consistent for engaging the cleat? Think of it as a fair lead that rotates to accomodate the incoming angle of the sheet under all points of sail. Quote
sscoville Posted March 13, 2013 Author Posted March 13, 2013 If you didn't use the block at the cleat, how would you keep the angle of the sheet to the cleat consistent for engaging the cleat? Think of it as a fair lead that rotates to accomodate the incoming angle of the sheet under all points of sail. There is a bullseye fairlead on the cleat. Quote
Peter HK Posted March 13, 2013 Posted March 13, 2013 Peter HK, do you use stand up blocks in combo with your rotating bullseye/cam cleats? I bought the cam cleats with bullseyes and was hoping that was all I needed for the mainsheet, except the block on the end of the sprit. I see Tom uses stand up blocks with his. I don't use stand up blocks. The main works fine just using the fairleads. Peter HK Quote
sscoville Posted July 7, 2013 Author Posted July 7, 2013 How are y'all attaching the turning block to the mast for the mizzen sheet? I currently have a block with an eye strap. This is the point of most friction in the run of my sheet and I need to change it. It seems like it would be better if the block could rotate with the sail and sprit. Has anyone attached this block to the forward end of the sprit? The next best thing I can think to do is to use a block and strap which allow better movement. Another idea - what about suspending the block from the strap a few inches with a piece of line, allowing the block to move that much more with the sprit? Quote
jongo42 Posted July 9, 2013 Posted July 9, 2013 Interested in Peter K's mizzen sheet. One question Peter, does it not interfere or chafe on the foot of the sail? Quote
Peter HK Posted July 9, 2013 Posted July 9, 2013 Interested in Peter K's mizzen sheet. One question Peter, does it not interfere or chafe on the foot of the sail? No, It runs under the boom and the sail is to the side. See here Cheers Peter HK Quote
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