Shad progress

[P Doug (WA)]

Aaron, your frame looks great and you got the Frog requirement out of the way.  It is a piece of cake from here on.

[gorn]

Thanks P Douglass

I still have some minor hull work to do, but have had to put it aside for a little while.

Getting ready to move house, so trying to get other things in order.

Soon enough she will be done, and then I will post more pics

[labrat]

Aaron please check your private messages - I have sent some info on another SOF builder in Mandurah (at his request).

[gorn]

Thanks labrat, will do

[gorn]

Ok, its been a long time between any work being done lol.

I have a problem, or so it seems to me.

I have checked my frame measurements over and over, and they are all spot on.

My issue is, the coaming seems to leave portions of stringers and frame showing in the cockpit.

See pics. Is this normal? 

I cant seem to find any pics showing these angles on a Shad.

I now live a 5 minute drive from one of the largest lakes in the state, so the time has come to get off my ass

Comments please.

 

[Kudzu]

I run into this in the classes from time to time and it is usually a frame has slipped during lashing. We rarely have time to go back and fix it but you do.

 

Iit could be a couple of things but other than looks it doesn't hurt anything.  However, looks are important to me, so if it was mine, I would simply cut the lashing on the frame at the front of the coaming, move it forward and relash.  You can do that in about 15 minutes probably.  It will not mess anything up. Ideally the frames should fall directly under the coaming but a little bit inside the boat won't hurt either.

[gorn]

Thanks Jeff.

That was my thinking too, but wanted to make sure I wasn't over thinking it

[Hirilonde]

I suggest leaving the deck stringer as is 'till after you skin.  It is easy to cut even then, and it helps in avoiding another "oh $#!7".

[BigD]

Hey I just wanted to share a technique that I have been using. I make my scarf joints 12" long, use Tightbond III, then use 4" shrink wrap in lieu of clamps. Always wrap at least 5 layers and go past the ends of the joint a couple of inches. The pieces will normally self center. Let cure for 24 hrs.cut the plastic off and clean up with a block plane.

[Kudzu]

Have you tried to break one? Sounds good on the surface and this would be great with epoxy.  But what concerns me is that these types of glues need pressure to make a proper bond, how much I don't remember.  But if it does provide a good bond, I will start doing this!

[Hirilonde]

Have you tried to break one? Sounds good on the surface and this would be great with epoxy.  But what concerns me is that these types of glues need pressure to make a proper bond, how much I don't remember.  

Epoxy requires no real pressure.  I have glued small pieces on just using gravity to hold them in place, maybe adding a weight.  As long as you have squeezed out any voids, and hold the stuff from moving, assuming all prep work is good the result should be strong.  Some people add walnut shells to the epoxy to hold a gap while clamping to avoid starving the joint of epoxy due to over-clamping. This technique is good for laminating where only strong clamp action will work holding all the pieces together.   Clamping is often necessary for gluing with epoxy, but the problem is starvation vs enough pressure, as with phenolic resin glues.

 

But if you think an adhesive is the answer then you can't beat epoxy on boats.  

[Kudzu]

I looked it up and TiteBond recommends 150 psi on glue joints. Rules are meant to be broken and stretch wrap may work, I am going to see if I can't find some scrap in the shop and try this with a clamp and with a stretch wrap. I love the idea and hope it works!

[Action Tiger]

No reason you couldn't use belt and braces by wrapping some scarfs in plastic then clamping, too. You could even stack clamp several at once using the plastic to keep them from sticking.

I'm seriously amazed the tbiii doesn't stick to plastic. It sticks to everything else, including glass!

[BigD]

Have you tried to break one? Sounds good on the surface and this would be great with epoxy. But what concerns me is that these types of glues need pressure to make a proper bond, how much I don't remember. But if it does provide a good bond, I will start doing this!

[BigD]

After reading your comments, you made me think about it. I have never broken a piece assembled this way. I made a test piece from the 5/8" x 5/8" stringer scrap. I broke it by clamping about 5" of it to a table leaving 12" hanging off the edge.I then hung a bucket on the end and added weight it failed at about 27 lbs. The glue joint held 100%. The western red cedar failed. I repeated the same test with a virgin piece with same results.

I've been a wood worker for over 35 yrs.and only learned this method about 10 yrs. ago. With that said, what works for cabinetry doesn't mean it will work on a boat.