Quick Spindrift Questions

[goyousalukis]

Well, I just got my plywood Wednesday and started lofting yesterday. I have a quick question: the plans mention tapering the the gunwales for a better look. In which axis are they tapered? Is it the vertical height i.e. the vertical height at the bow is smaller than at the transom? Or is the thickness of the laminations tapered from transom to bow? Sorry, I'm not sure how to clearly state the question!

Also, can anyone suggest a good website for beginner sailors? I sailed as a kid, and understand basics like tacking, but I am unfamilar with many of the sail rig terms in the plans.

Lastly, I plan on building mine to handle rowing, an outboard and sailing. The plans mention optionally shifting the outboard reinforcement to make room for the pintles. The plans just show a slanted line. Does anyone have a photo of this configuration?

Thanks for your help... once I go 3d, I'll post some photos.

[Peter HK]

The party line is that the gunwales should be tapered in both axes. That is widest and thickest in the middle and thinner and narrower at bow and stern. As this is aesthetics and thus everyone's opinion will vary a little the question of how much to taper is up to the individual. I usually taper more at the bow than the stern.

Cheers

Peter HK

[Hirilonde]

I never heard of such a thing Peter. I must not fit the party line, which is nothing new. In that case,I don't like taper at all. especially in height and even if finished bright.

Of course on my Spindrift it is all academic, as mine are covered in gunwale guard (continuous fendering).

[PAR]

Tapering is a common practice, though with many home builds, these traditional touches are often forgotten, much like the carved sheer strake. The height of the rail tapers very easily, as it approaches the bow and to a much lesser extent the transom. This compensates for the optical illusion, created as the rail pulls away from the eye, because of hull curvature. It's an aesthetic consideration, but it's just these sort of things that separate the men from the boys in boat building and why some yachts, though seemingly similar to others, just look "right". Things like a properly swept cabin roof crown, appropriately scaled bulwarks, boot and cove stripe sweep, combing caps, etc. all have proportions and aesthetic aspects to them. For a work boat or bang around dinghy, not so much a concern, unless it's used as a tender to a fine yacht, at which point the differences would stand proud.

[goyousalukis]

Thanks for the info guys. Since traditionally it is tapered in both axis, I guess one strategy would be to attach it flush with the top of the sides in the middle, and a little proud at the ends. Then handplane them down to the top of the sides. Similary, the ends could be tapered in thickness after the rail is attached (avoiding any driven screws of course!). The plans mention 1/8", so it is not a huge amount.

Regards,

Justin

[Steve W]

I didn't taper mine and I think she looks great. I thought about it, but I din't go through with it.

As for the Gudgeons and Pintles.........When you mount them, you need to keep the upper one down low if you are going to use an outboard. I put my outboard on, and drew a line across the bottom of the clamp, and then kept the hardware below that.

One thing I wish I had done different was to put a tapered piece of wood the same profile as the inside outboard pad on the outside. I may do this yet. The reason is I painted my transome and the outboard has left some good gouges.

Take care,

Steve