oar lock modification

[hokeyhydro]

Someday, hopefully soon, I will build a CS-15. Staring at the plan IO figure one would have to unstep the mizzen to row the boat, or maybe straddle it with a mast in your face. I would like to T the seat so I can sit to row with the mast behind me but this will require moving the oarlocks back about a foot.

Good idea? Bad idea?

[John Burritt]

What would this do to the balance of the boat? How many people typically in the boat & where? Some of these boats may have oar locks in more than one location depending on load variations.

[Dale Niemann]

I have two oarlock locations. One pair at the usual location and one pair forward of the mizzen. I can row from there by sitting on the centerboard trunk. I have never done if for very long but it is an option for short distances. Graham gave me the proper location for the second pair and I am sure he would give you this information for the CS15.

dale

[hokeyhydro]

Thanks all. Hmm . . . sit with mast in face to row. I'll have to noodle that one out, try the position.

[wkisting]

I have the oarlocks in the aft position only (I did not install a second pair in the forward location that others have mentioned). Since I don't have a third mast step, that means my mizzen has to stay in place when I row. In practice, I row facing forward (staring at the mizzen mast) and it's not incredibly comfortable if you're working both oars. So, if I have to row some distance, I'm more likely to row with a single oar and using the tiller set at the proper angle to keep me on a straight course. Obviously, this isn't as efficient as having a comfortable way to sit and work both oars--ideally, with the CB and rudder fully retracted to reduce friction/drag.

One of these days, I'm going to install a second set of oarlocks about halfway up the CB case (located just far enough forward of the mizzen that a full rotation of the oars would not allow the handles to hit the mizzen). Then I'll make a padded seat that slides over the top of the CB case. That way I can sit ahead of the mizzen, facing aft, and work both oars comfortably. If I were building the boat from scratch again, that is the only oarlock set I would install, as I think that would be the ideal location for rowing while both masts remain up.

Also, when I installed my oarlocks, I set them in mahogany blocks that are exactly flush with the coaming and which also serve as a seat on the rail to keep the coaming from pressing into the bottoms of my legs when I sit there. In retrospect, the oarlocks need to be slightly higher than the coaming; otherwise, you have to be very careful not to dip the handles too low while you row, or the oar shaft will rub on the inboard edge of the coaming and wear off the varnish/finish. I've always been careful with mine, but one of the most obnoxious parts of rowing is that you cannot let the handle ever dip below straight horizontal or it will rub. When I install another pair of oarlocks, I'll set the top of the oarlock base about 1/4" higher than the top of the coaming to eliminate that concern also.

Not sure if your preferences will match my own, but some of that info might help you think through the details of how you want to set up yours.

[Howard]

Option B or C? Build a sculling oar:

http://councill.home.mindspring.com/sbjournal/sculling/scull1.html

I built a 9 footer using the falling leaf stroke for my 17 footer and it will move her along at about 1 knot with very little effort in a calm.

There are several modifications suggested for modern sculling oars. If you use the vertical stroke, you can put the blade slightly off center from the loom of the oar and it will rotate on it's own (no twist of the wrist). Longer blade is better. It also works best when you stop to rest as it won't float up on the moving water and also doubles as a rudder to steer with.

The bent shaft falling leaf type oar generates more thrust and power. The more vertical the blade, the more thrust it generates......in short, think of it as one very large propeller blade.

This site discusses some of the principles in more detail, but lacks some of the graphics:

http://knockaboutsloops.blogspot.com/2008/08/how-to-build-sculling-oar-by-jerome.html

That is one big sculling oar.

[ecgossett]

Another question of the evening.. My bronze oarlock snapped off in the mounting place. What are some good stainless steel alternative to replace it? I have looked at Duck Works but they only sell one that folds down.

How far forward does everyone put the second rowing position?