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Posted

Will going to a smaller sheet make the mizzen respond easier to playing out the sail?  I find that the system takes a lot more wind and sometimes manual manipulation to get the mizzen to move into its downwind position.


Posted

Probably.  Other things can effect it as well.  The ease or lack of that the blocks work(bearings or simple axel, size of the sheive), how many blocks in the system, the type of line(3 strand or marine braid) and the angles the line bends around blocks all effect the amount of resistance or friction needed to over come for the boom to pay out.  Many boats use 2 different sizes of line for spinnaker sheets for light and heavy wind to deal with similar issues.

In light winds you may just have to push the boom out some times.

Posted

After the Small Reach Regatta, I am even more in favor of having all the sheets at the base of the mizzen with all three on swivel cleats.  Brent's mizzen system works great.  The leads are fair no matter where the crew may be sitting and I never have to look to see just where the cleat is, especially when it is behind me.  Plus, no one can be blocking the cleats in a hard chance, which almost did us in once in Loon.  Granted that swivel cleats are expensive, but I cobbered the two main sheet swivels from scrap stainless and the old parts box.That's my story and I'm sticking to it

Posted

So would I put a cheek block on the mizzen mast or a standing block on the mast end of the sprit?  I'm guessing a cheek block on the mast makes the most sense because the sprit end moves forward in a reef.

Posted

Regarding the mizzen sheet rather than the staysl: That's a question I have, too. Brent clearly puts the fore block on the sprit.  How does he reef?  Also, is the block & cleat arrangement on the mast or the thwart?  I can't see it clearly in the photo.  I have snagged at some VERY awkward moments, and would like to try Brent's system.

Posted

I put a swivel block on the port side of the mizzen mast below the snotter.  I mounted it a little too low for the best visual effect but it works fine.  I did not use a cheek block because I thought there was a possibility of the sheet binding if the mast did not rotate just right.  I made a fairlead about half way along the sprit to prevent the sheet from sagging in light air.

The mizzen sheet swivel cleat could go on the mast or the thwart but mine is on the thwart. 

Posted

Tom, what's the purpose of the swivel block?  Does it avoid the need for a block near the foreward end of the sprit?

Oops!  Just realized that, with the mizzen in the reefing step, this system wouldn't work.  I suppose I could unreeve the Brent-style sheet and attach the mainsheet in the conventional way...

Posted

The best way to improve is to try different ideas and debate the pro's and cons. I just want to reiterate the thought behind the standard sheeting system.

With a rig that tacks as easily as the cat ketch, having to take sheets with you through each tack seems a backward step. It always pleases me to short tack through a narrow channel without doing anything but to put the helm down and time it just right by easing the helm into the tack and increase the helm as you go through the tack, stay on the old side just a little longer as the boat comes across and you have done a roll tack and the boat accelerates out of the tack. Every now and then I blow the tack and take too big a bite of wind and the "safety valve" main sheet is waiting in just the right place (out to windward) to ease while I get the boat back on course and in equilibrium. To reach into the centerline to retrieve a sheet, when at that moment I need to be out to windward does not seem to be the best solution.

The mizzen sheet while not as critical to ease as the mainsheet still needs to be eased when you bear away and lo and behold it is right there with me out to windward. While anything will work in light air it is when the air is fresh that sheet ergonomics are important. In Southern Skimmer with her big sail plan if I need to bear away in a hurry to miss another boat, if I don't ease the mizzen as soon as I ease the main I just don't turn. I really like having the mizzen sheet out to windward and just aft. I never felt that using my aft hand to ease the mizzen sheet is that difficult, after all we use our aft hand to hold onto the tiller extension on either tack.

Posted

Tom, what's the purpose of the swivel block?   Does it avoid the need for a block near the foreward end of the sprit?

Oops!  Just realized that, with the mizzen in the reefing step, this system wouldn't work.  I suppose I could unreeve the Brent-style sheet and attach the mainsheet in the conventional way...

There is no sheet block on the forward end of the sprit.  That is what the swivel block on the mast is for.  Reefing is not an issue with this system, it proceeds as usual.

When I started racing sailboats, I never cleated the mainsheet at all and kept it at hand by switching hands from tiller to sheet on each tack.  This was for safety to avoid capsizes in emergency maneuvers.  With more experience, I found I could safely cleat the mainsheet much of the time, even while racing.  I have always used a center swivel mainsheet cleat on boats other than Loon, where I followed Graham's plan. 

There is room for individual preference and here is mine.  I found the coaming mounted clam cleats to be awkward for me, especially the one aft of my body.  I like the center mounted swivels and keep the mainsheet close to hand, whether it is on center or on the coaming, so losing control on a tack is not an issue for me from that reason.  There is no right or wrong, just individual preference.

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