Spindrift 10

[markja]

When fitting the foredeck/seat on a Spindrift 10,

should the seat be level with the waterline or perhaps slope back a bit? It could be parallel to the sheer line, I guess.

I can't seem to find a dimension for this on the plans.

Thanks

MARK

[Garry]

Hi Mark,

I would consider removing the screws after the keel is bonded and fill the holes with epoxy to ensure no seepage.

I made the forededck with a slight slope to make sure that water would drain. But its probably not a real concern since the boat will move and rock enough to prevent water from collecting. Parallel to the sheer would be too much slope I think and probably look weird.

[ulpilotrmh]

My S-10N plans show that the top of the bow seat is to be sloped aft for drainage.

Russ

[markja]

Thanks for the help.

I think I'll slope it about 1/2" or so. (1/4" per ft.)

MARK

[ulpilotrmh]

Also, on my plans, the seat appears to be parrallel with the shear.

Russ

[markja]

I have been reading about bonding aluminum with epoxy and finding how it can fail because the aluminum corrosion prevents the epoxy from sticking. Is there anything special to do when doing such things as gluing and taping the gooseneck to a mast on a Spindrift. I am hoping sanding the aluminum thoroughly and spreading epoxy right away will be enough to make a good bond.Would wiping with acetone help?

This is a picture of progress so far. I am putting the daggerboard trunk on the centerline.

[Peter HK]

Aluminium oxidizes extremely rapidly on exposure to air. One recommendation is to coat the aluminium with epoxy and then sand it so the new metal is not exposed to oxygen. You end up with a bit of grit in the epoxy, which you are going to put glue on anyway, and a ruined piece of sandpaper.

The bits I've done haven't failed so far.

Peter HK

[Garry]

Mark,

I doubt there is any reason to be concerned. I could see it might be troublesome to bond to a flat plate, but wrapping epoxy tape around a mast should be no problem. Just give it a good sanding before. If you are concerned about corrosion, just sand it right before you mix up the epoxy. The texture of the sanded metal will give the epoxy all the grip you need.

[markja]

Would a strip of kevlar tape epoxied to the stem area down to where the keel starts help prevent damage when bumping into a dock or a rocky beach?

I can't see how it would hurt other than adding a few ounces of weight...

MARK

[Garry]

I have no experience but I have heard that some exotic materials need special care to get a good bond. The only other concern might be potential difficulty in making repairs in that area later on.

And if you have my luck, since a rocky beach isn't flat, you'll damage the boat where the kevlar isn't.

A strip of fiberrglass tape would probably be sufficient and easiest to work with.

[Dale Niemann]

I would definitely recommend you put kevlar or something that can take abrasion on the stem and keel wherever there is no keel.  My "Lively" has a few scrapes on the bowstem and keel in front of the external keel.  I wish I had done it before.

Dale

[markja]

I have the hull pretty well along. I need to get the seat tops glued down. I have used the Okume plywood and all Honduran mahogany for the solid wood parts. I am lucky to get the scraps where I work. I have a piece of Alaskan Yellow Cedar for the boom. I think it is available mostly on the West Coast and is a good substitute for fir or Sitka spruce. very light color, more pricey than fir, though.