Materials and methods for attaching tracks to masts?

[Joe Nelson CS#35]

Looking for ideas for attaching the stainless tracks to the mast.  Common problem for a lot of Graham's boats with multi piece aluminum masts.  The steps are 1/4" between sections.  Graham uses some kind of fiberglass section and grinds them down to the appropriate wedge shape.  I would like to discuss ideas for spanning the gap between the track and the mast.  wood seems to be a bad alternative, as it will be subject to rot.

Didnt I hear someone say they just use a bungie sail tie as a lower stopper on the tracks?

I have my new sails and the tracks are on the way.  BYW...Graham has the best prices on tracks that I have found!!!

[Charlie Jones]

I've tried drilling and tapping. That works fine for most of the track, but not at the ends. There I've found that a stainless pop rivet in the first several holes was better.

I used a long wooden feather, soaked in epoxy under the mast tracks. I figure it's a wooden boat, saturated with epoxy, why not a wooden sline?

[Greg Luckett]

I've tried drilling and tapping. That works fine for most of the track, but not at the ends. There I've found that a stainless pop rivet in the first several holes was better.

I used a long wooden feather, soaked in epoxy under the mast tracks. I figure it's a wooden boat, saturated with epoxy, why not a wooden sline?

I was with you up to the "wooden feather" and "wooden sline" part, Charlie.  Would you happen to have a picture that could be posted?

Thank you,

Greg.

[Charlie Jones]

OOPS- that should read "Spline". Dropped the "P" out of it.

I just used the band saw to cut a long wedge shaped slice off the edge of a board, epoxy coated it and slid it under the track, butted against the shoulder. Then drilled holes in it and ran the screws through.

[Terry Dunn]

Like Joe, I am about ready to attach mast track to the masts. My mast track has holes every 2 3/4 inches. Should every hole have a rivet?

[Charlie Jones]

That's what I do

[Peter HK]

Re track spacers- I made mine in glass by moulding wetted tapes of staggered lengths over the mast section until thick enough. I'll cut them down to fit behind the track. Here's a pic.

Peter HK

[Joe Nelson CS#35]

I kinda like Peter HK's idea.   How far apart did you step the glass pieces?

I used a straight edge on the transition between the sections...there is a gap under the track location for quite a distance, although it does get smaller as it goes.  To what point do you feel it OK to stop the feather and just snug the track down to the mast tube?  In other words, how long should the feathers be in order to not distort the sail shape?

Tracks are on their way, but I can start on the feather now!!!

[Joe Nelson CS#35]

Terry,

We are on the same "track" and I have hull #35, yours #36.  Cool!  Sorry that we could not make it to Sucia this year...maybe next?

[Peter HK]

How far apart did you step the glass pieces?

Joe

I made the spacers about a foot long and started with a piece at 2 inches then 4 etc up to 12 inches. May vary depending on the weight of your glass tape- I'm using 12 oz biaxial tape. Remember to put it with the longer piece upwards so it's nice and smooth.

Peter HK

[Joe Nelson CS#35]

Thanks everyone!

I like the fiberglass feathers best...good and waterproof.  I also like the idea of snapping a string line and painting the mast under the track.  Graham recommmeded using a dab of 5200 with each rivet to seal the holes and reduce risk of corrosion between the stainless rivets and aluminum tubes.

[Terry Dunn]

Joe,  How are you fixing your main mast so it doesn't rotate?

[Designer]

I am beginning to wonder if you need to stop the masts from rotating when you use sprits. When a boom is used with a conventional gooseneck the forward thrust causes the mast to rotate and you will break the gooseneck as the boom rotates around the mast.

There will be less stress on the rig if it rotates. The running rigging will tighten as the main mast rotates but I think that it is worth a try, especially as your masts are already made that way.

When the masts are fixed the snotter must be eased as you ease the sheets.

[Peter HK]

I am beginning to wonder if you need to stop the masts from rotating when you use sprits.

I have a Welsford Golden Bay dinghy with standing lug and sprit boom. The mast is freely rotating and it doesn't seem to be a problem, though I have the snotter and halyard cleated on the mast.

Here's a photo of Melissa May 2- named after my daughter.

Peter HK

[Joe Nelson CS#35]

I'm gunna give it a try without something to keep the masts from rotating.  The sleeve luffs rotate around the masts anyway, not sure what the difference would be between that an the track system with rotation.  I will let you all know after I give it a try.

[Designer]

Having used many poor sail slide stops I came up with this design which is cheap and simple to make, can be used with cold wet fingers, always works and does not require tools to operate.

The plastic turn button is 2" long 3/4" wide and 3/8" thick. The underside is hollowed out to fit the curve of the mast which locks it in place. The lower 1 1/8" of underside is made flat to allow it to turn easily. To hollow out the underside I hold it against the front roller of a belt sander and then use the flat base of the belt sander to flatten out the lower section. While at the belt sander I round the bottom and top and put on a chamfor all around the top. I drill a 3/16" hole with a countersink. I fix it to the mast with a 10 x 32 machine screw and use Locktite so that the screw won't unturn when the button is turned.

When turned the plastic has to distort slightly because of the concave underside, once it is turned about 45 deg. it is turning on the flat lower surface and then turns easy.  I use Starboard which is the UV restant plastic that they make cup and fishing rod holders on power boats. I have also made them from plastic bread boards.

[Joe Nelson CS#35]

Graham,

Thanks, a picture is worth a thousand words.  I understand now!

[Designer]

Before you put the stainless steel sail track on the mast it is necessary to file the edges of the track to to help the slides to run smoothly. The edges are cut sharp during manufacture and with the twisting action of the flaked sails or the batten tension on the slides it can be very difficult to raise the sails as the slides want to hang if you don't smooth off the edges.

[Joe Nelson CS#35]

I'm on the home stretch now...got the tracks on the masts.  Just working on the additional hardware now for the halyards, etc. that I didn't have before.  I ended up going with stainless washers under the tracks in the transition areas.  I used small washers that are no wider than the tracks.  Looks OK.  Took 200 rivets for the tracks and all the hardware.  Hope to get out this weekend and give her a whirl!

Lightning racing last night was great!  I love short course racing.  So many rules to learn.  On a side note, one of our club members went to the North American's in Annapolis this week.  He took 17th place out of 80 boats in the 'A' fleet.  He trailered his boat all the way from Oregon.

[Dale Niemann]

Joe,

I am just getting ready to put SS tracks on my masts also.  What did you use to attach the tracks, SS (pop)rivits? SS screws? or SS machine screws?

Dale