Painting

[capt jake]

What an outstanding feeling! 4 hours since the last coat and I removed the masking. It is beautiful IMHO! I am so impressed with spraying, and now that I am well, less intimidated; I will have to spray from now on! Sorry Ray, no more brushes and rollers for me! ;)

I should have bought one of these set ups many years ago, but was to intimidated by it all. Hey, I had a set back or two getting it set up, but now I am sold! That yucky paint ain't so yucky anymore. ;)

[Howard]

I saw Charlie's comments about use below the waterline. It seems that ALL of the so called marine paints are not to be used below the waterline. And for some reason when they mention "Marine" on the can...the price doubles.

Anyone ever use the two part epoxy paints from Sherwin Williams? I can't tell from their specs, but suspect they could be used below the waterline, and may be just as tough as the LPU's....and more color choices.

BTW....it turns out that outfits like SW have a whole series of paints in the store they don't offer to guys off the street. I'm working with a non-profit and had occasion to need some paint for metal exterior doors. Asked what they recommended and was handed a can of exterior latex. I had doubts and objected, but was told it was "the best" and what they fully recommended. Put it on, and it looked like crap with nasty brush strokes showing. One month later, the door is showing rust...over the factory primer the door came with. So I do some checking and find out the pros use oil base. So I go back and insist on an oil base and get a can off the retail shelf. Removed the latex, put that on, and it's better. Later a professional painter is hired for different doors and he shows up with an entirely different oil base....one that is not ever mentioned at the retail counter. None of the fancy logos or ad's on the label. Just a generic label with a complicated set of color codes so the color can be matched if you want more. He says it's much tougher and better, and of course with him doing it, it looks twice as good.

Also just remodelded bathrooms in the same place and the contractor used a satin gloss two part epoxy paint on the ceilings. It was spec'd for use over drywall in that high humidity environment. Again, this product won't be found on the retail shelf. And it turns out they are not that much more expensive than the other stuff that doesn't work. Makes one think it's a marketing plan that soaks retail and sucks up to professionals.

[kydocfrog]

"Makes one think it's a marketing plan that soaks retail and sucks up to professionals."

Gee...could something like that happen...I'm shocked... :shock: ...I'm really shocked and might even become disillusioned...

Sigh.

DocA

[capt jake]

I am sure that inquiring minds want to know........so here ya go!

3 hours and a spray gun.

[John Turpin]

Great looking MiniPaw. You obviously know what you're doing!

[Charlie Jones]

looks GREAT Jake. I added some runners on the bottom of ours also, because we have these coarse shell beaches around.

Mine aren't brass

[Craig]

That looks great Jake. I got tires of fooling around tipping the Allgrip on Tom's Hard Top and finished the outside from the canvas rail to the edge with a touch up gun at about 25lb. Came out great. I kind of like that All Grip but it's too pricey for my boat. The stuff dries like iron.

[capt jake]

Aside from the overspray (which is rather sticky due to the slow drying paint I am using) I really like spraying. After getting over the intitial butterflies, it goes pretty well.

The nice thing about this oil based paint is that it gives sufficient opent time to deal with runs if you get them. I have wet down a rag with mineral spirits and wiped away one whole section as I was learning. Bad part is (as stated above) the overspray doesn't dry prior to 'landing', but the up side is that the overspray blends well if it lands on a freshly painted area.

Spraying the inside of the mini is a bit of a challenge, but it is far superior to roll and tip as I have 3 coats on in about 2 1/2 hours. Naptha gives a good balance of thinning and flashing fast enough to apply one coat every hour or so (better than minieral spirits). I was told not to use acetone as it dries too fast and would cause the paint to be brittle.

One or two more coats and I will be done for the day. Tommorow I will mask off teh non-skid areas and roll those on.

[capt jake]

OK, I am nearly done. I have to put on the contrasting non-skid and set the oarlocks. Painting with a spray gun is much nicer than a brush. The inside was done in three hours and the masking removed after another 4.

[Guest]

And a piece of thick tempered glass and you will have a new coffee table for the misses. Thumbs up from the fellow stuck in the rough for now.

[adla]

spray guns make for good finishes...i don't think that the paint becoming brittle (if it is an oil based enamel) is the reason acetone is a bad choice :? ...my paint, that i will use on morgaine also calls for the Naptha...i plan on spraying a few test pieces to start since it has been a LONG time since i have sprayed anything not out of a can. :shock: :shock: :shock:

LooOOks GoOod!

a.

[capt jake]

This paint (Benjamin Moore M22) doesn't specify a thinner. Only Mineral Spirits for clean up. The store manager is the one I got the information about Naptha from. Actually, I think the Acetone would be a little hard to work with because it kicks off so fast. If you are spraying a large are with no pockets or voids (like the cockpit on a Weekender) it may do quite well.

When I had the Weekender painted (automotive urethane enamel) we had to go back and polich quite a few ares because of the overspray. The longer open time allows for teh overspray to settle and blend in a bit. Of course it sticks to everything else also.

It has also been a long time since I held a gun (20 plus years), The inside of my shop door is now a nice white color from test spraying! Added light in the shop! :shock:

[adla]

i don't have any acetone to test my theory...i will get some later and see if it does what i think it would do...

i have the benjamin moore 36-80 i think...2 part enamel (for the outside hull)...i haven't even played with it yet...not ready to paint. i used rustoleum on the interior and just rolled it...maybe later (winter project) i will sand it and spray it...

a.

[capt jake]

I just returned from the paint store. The owner stated that the main reason they do not recommend thinning is that many people tend to thin it too much and not apply enough to build the film thickness. I was applying wet on wet, thus blending the coats together, he stated that this woud be the way to do it if you thin it. The paint companies basically consider a paint that is thinned too much as no longer being the product they designed (as he said).

Just got a contrasting gray; thinned it with naptha and added teh non-skid. I will wait a few hours and apply the second coat.

[adla]

acetone is more of a solvent...better for paint removal not application

Naptha is petroleum based / acetone isn't ....there is probably some one out there with a more techi type way of putting it...

The boat looks good...can't wait to see the contrasting color.

a.

[capt jake]

I'll get some pictures in the AM. I am not happy with the way non-skid additive and paint go on. In all cases that I have applied it, it appears blotchy. I just finished rolling on another coat without the additive.

Now on the next boat (when I get the go ahead) I will try to replicate what Devlin does (of course teh next boat will be quite larger). Hopefully Joel (boatbuilder.org) will chime in on this. Joel explained that they simply take paint (I don't think they thin it) and shoot it on with a gun. They dial the pressure down to where it comes out in a really rough orange peel. Any of you who have seen the non-skid on a Devlin boat will know what I am refering to. It looks very nice, kinda like a smoother version of the texture on a sprayed on bed-liner.

[Barry Pyeatt]

Looking good Capt. Jake. Shall we tow behind Fire Escape to try it out?

[capt jake]

OK, all done. There are a few things 'missing' yet; let's see who guesses it first.

Another straight coat of paint on the non-skid seems to even out the color, though the 'sand' (for lack of a better term) is blotchy. Oh well.

Hmmmm, picture do post in the opposite order as uploaded. Interesting???..

[Charlie Jones]

Looking Great!! Now put the locks on her and go rowing

I used the Interlux Interdeck on Tehani- we're really happy with the way it turned out. I've also done nonskid like is shown in Bingham's "Sailor's Sketchbook" with excellent results. I've used that on 3 boats so far.

Of course you COULD make your Mini look like this

[capt jake]

Good going Charlie, no oarlocks yet. ;)

Say, what is Binghams method of non-skid? Also, interdeck; that is a pre-made non-skid? I simply bought the additive (like a powder) and added it to the paint per the instructions.