Extended opening / soft hatch

[kydocfrog]

Well, I still get these in reverse order.

Third is a shot showing the extended cabin hatch opening. There will be a coaming running fore and aft on each side and across at the forward end extending a couple of inches up. That frame should insure structural rigidity. The semi-slot top that results now lets one walk forward comfortably to within working distance of the mast without having to go to side deck or cabin roof. The soft cover will stretch across and tension on snaps like an auto toneau cover.

Also shown is my controversial Seagull. I have a bad feeling that I blew some early measurements and the long shaft may turn out to be a problem. We shall see when I get to the stage of checking C.G. II out to see if she actually holds water. I hope things work. I do have a soft spot for such an elegant and effective piece of industrial design. Oh well. Also the port and starboard lazarette hatches show and the rather massive gun'l/toe rail.

And first, which should have been third, a graphic example of why I pretty much only work when the sun is shining...

Doc A in Kentucky

[Frank Hagan]

The Seagull looks about right to me. You want to be able to tip it out of the water completely, so the head of it has to come up over the transom. And it looks like the cavitation plate is 2 - 3 inches below the bottom of the hull ... maybe a little deep, but I don't think that will hurt anything.

[Barry Pyeatt]

I like it! The concept of the top being open that way makes perfect sense to me! I think it well thought out and should prove to be very practical. 8)

I think you will be happier that you got the long shaft rather than a short shaft version. When it gets a bit choppy and you are trying to get to point B from A it's prop will still be in the water when the stern isn't. My only concern is the clearance between the prop and the rudder. Straight ahead isn't a concern, it is turning that brings it close. Seen a couple chewed up rudders from electrics and some really chewed up rudders from gas burners. :oops: I'm finding that the geometry works OK when turning to port, but starboard might be the issue. I had to move my mount further to the side to keep it clear. But then, you may not have that issue with the mount you have.

[Ed Jones]

NICE, I like your idea better than my "Pop-Top". Captan Bud has been trying to get me to lower my roof line and install a soft top like yours for almost a year now.

[Bud_Wilson]

Hello kydocfrog I think your extended hatch opening is a great idea. I thought it was a good idea on my P/C MAGNOLIA but even a better idea on the weekender they are a little more tipsy than the P/C. It makes it much easier to get to your mast without getting wet,and when you fall overboarb these things will sail off and leave you. Me not being as graceful as I was at one time in my life it makes me feel a lot better when single handed. Y'ALL COME Cap'N Bud.

[Tim Diebert]

Mr. Frog....I too think you nailed the depth and the extended hatch looks like it will be perfect as well. I hadn't seen the images in this post before...

Barry pointed out a really important detail with the potential for the rudder to hit the blade. Perhaps you could install some kind of 'stop' that would prevent range of motion to that extent...?

[Frank Hagan]

Prop damage to rudders is a common problem ... here's how I solve it on my plastic boat. Its a design that works something like a Kort Nozzle to help boost the performance of the outboard, but my main reason for having it is to protect the rudder (especially in the kicked up position).

This one is pricey, about $75, but you may be able to find something less expensive for the Seagull.

I have to say though, that I have not had this problem with my Weekender. I have the outboard mounted as far toward port as I can get it, and the rudder doesn't impact the prop. The danger is only when the rudder is kicked up on my Weekender, and I rarely do that.

[kydocfrog]

Ah fer....

Yup; I'm looking at the prop and rudder thing and all those holes I drilled in the transom. I' thinking I am going to have to move the mount. And, unusually enough for me, all the holes lined up exactly.

The reason for worry about the shaft length is that the mount is in the raised position in the photo. I guess it could stay there. Someone mentioned dragging in the water -- the Seagull does have a pivot/latch to swing the whole thing up into an angled trail arms sort of postion.

I'll start on the hatch coamings as soon as I can. Got a lot of the uncured epoxy mess cleaned up this weekend.

Cheers.

Doc A