Andrew Posted January 16, 2005 Posted January 16, 2005 OK, So I've managed to find a source for some fantastic, old growth, close ringed wood for the mast, but only in 2 x 4 not 4 x 4. So I'll laminate two pieces together. I think Ken mentioned that he did the same and routed a hole down the middle for running mast lighting at a later date. I think this is a great idea and plan to do the same, but I'm wondering how I will run the wire back to the battery :? Do I leave it haging out at the tabernackle? Do I continue the hollow mast down into the base piece and make a hole through the mast box to the battery? If I do this how do I stop the wire from getting 'crimped' when I raise the mast? Will I just need more hands on deck when raising and lowering? Would a lead sinker tied to the wire do the trick? Am I being paranoid? Am I making this more complicated than I need to? AAAGHHHHH :shock: Too many questions and not enough building!! Andrew PS. Frank, I've got my fingers crossed for you guys. In a book I read recently about a single handed circumnavigation, the yachty tried running from a squall that had blown up in front of him. In the end he was sooo tired and drained from the escaping that he gave in completely, turned 180 and went straight into the squall. He said that while he got blown around a little while in it, it was no where near as bad as it looked. It lasted maybe a half hour and when he came out at the other side he was greated with glorious sunshine and the boat had had the best wash it had had for months. I like this as a metaphore for most things we deal with in life Quote
Craig Posted January 16, 2005 Posted January 16, 2005 Run the wire out of the tab to the compression post, down the post and through a hole drilled in the deck. Put a connector about 18" down from the tab hinge to allow mast removal. Secure the wiring with clamps nailed into the post. Be sure to allow enough slack in the mast portion so that the cable is just tight when the mast is up. It will bend naturally with the mast down and show you where to put the first clamp. Seal the deck feed through with 5200. Wests or US Boat sell the little 4 pin plugs that will allow wiring a steaming light, anchor light, and a spreader light with a common ground. Just run only two at any time.. Quote
Frank Hagan Posted January 16, 2005 Posted January 16, 2005 I agree with Craig on the wiring, use a connector outside of the tabernacle that you can unplug before lowering the mast. On all the trailerable boats I've seen, they do something similar (have to on my Potter, as the mast comes completely out of the tabernacle and is attached to the bow pulpit). If its a Weekender, and you run it between the mast "stump" and the cabin front, it will be unobtrusive. Not sure where you're putting the batteries, but the Weekender benefits from some weight forward ... so right there in the forepeak is a good place. And you're right about the "squall" ... our values aren't wrapped up in the stuff we have anyway, and I tend to worry about things too much ... one of the ways I work through them, I guess. And we'll know more in a few weeks, so there's not much sense fretting about them now. Quote
ken connors Posted January 17, 2005 Posted January 17, 2005 just remember that two 2x4s dont equal a 4x4. you need to squeeze a 1/2 inch of something in there to square it off. and as long as youre routing a slot for wiring, you might as well rout out as much as can to save weight and come as close as you can to a hollow mast without weakening the mast. g,luck Quote
Barry Pyeatt Posted January 17, 2005 Posted January 17, 2005 I would also recommend installing a flush/recessed disconnect above the tabernacle. Then a short connecting cable can simply plug into it from the cabin wall or deck where another disconnect is installed when you need the mast light. Very simple solution to a perplexing but unnecessarily complex challenge. I would place the disconnect in the front of the cabin wall personally rather than on the deck or simpler yet, have a plug on a cord that you store inside the forward hatch and simply plug it in when needed. This is the approach I'm taking with my mast light, but I'll simply keep the light in the forward locker and raise it when needed with a flag halyard. Quote
Bud_Wilson Posted January 18, 2005 Posted January 18, 2005 :idea: Andrew I might mention if you will cut 4 of those 2x4's in a full 2inch strip and laminate them togather you will have a hole up the middle for your mast light wire, it works good and I think it gives you more strength. Y'ALL COME Cap'N Bud. x Quote
Ed Jones Posted January 18, 2005 Posted January 18, 2005 I made my 18' mast the way Bud mentioned and I can support it at both ends and it will hold my 330 lbs. with out bending. Quote
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