Bottom finish

[capt jake]

OK, here as a link to a different thought on bottom finishes.

What do you think??

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010210

[Guest]

What do I think? I think the import and export business has become a very risky business.

[Charlie Jones]

I know that standard 2-part urethanes such as AwlGrip and Imron aren't recommended for underwater or constant exposure to water. That stuff is a 2 part urethane.

I'd talk to the manufacturer before I put it all over my boat hull.

[Stump]

Well, I have the stuff in the bed of my truck. I've carried loads of gravel, rock, etc. and shoveled it out. Cleans out nice but I have to tell you, the stuff can be dinged and I guess you would say peeled. I have several spots where the coating has come off. OK in its place but unless you plan on piling up on reefs and rocks, a lot, I think I would rather do repairs with epoxy, glass and paint. Maybe in a whitewater drift boat?

Anyone know about what happens when you make repairs with the stuff? Does it totally seal to the old and the under layer? If it didn't it might cause more problems then not.

[capt jake]

I know that standard 2-part urethanes such as AwlGrip and Imron aren't recommended for underwater or constant exposure to water. That stuff is a 2 part urethane.

I see. :? Any thoughts on a tough durable finish for the hull of a trailered boat? It doesn't really need to be anti-fouling, as it will be in the water at most 3-4 days. As I understand it, bottom paint only has a 1-2 year life span, then it needs to be re-applied.

[Stump]

Funny you should mention AwlGrip. Just got done reading about a custom built 43 foot cruiser that used the stuff back in 1994. Stated it was recommeded by the builder. The problem of course was the stuff is deadly and had to be applied by a pro. (can't seem to spell that word today :oops: ) If it is a urethane, how could it NOT be waterproof? It was applied over a stripmolded wood hull. Edjabacate me please.

[Scott Dunsworth]

Jake I used a epoxy coating by interlux call VC performance. It is a teflon loaded coating. It recommends 3 or more coats. Can't tell you how it holds up yet. But I can tell you that I have accidently banged the lower transom climbing in and out with tools. So far you can not see any dinks or scratches yet. The down side that I can see is if you want a super slick finish. You have to sand the coating with 220 400 and then with 600 grit.

It will be a year before I get this boat wet so I don't know how it will hold up trailering.

[capt jake]

I was under the impression that Interlux VC Performance was a sacrificial coating.. As Stump said; udjumacate me?

[Barry Pyeatt]

You have epoxy already that is tough, now it needs a good tough UV coating that will wear and give you good performance for a few years.

My best recomendation is a 2 part LPU with good UV additives to it.

Once applied, and it can be rolled on and brushed out or sprayed, it will provide a good tough surface that will take a lot of hard knocks and come back just fine.

It will be tough to remove when it comes time to refinish, but that is true of any truly good finish.

Clear coat, Semi-gloss or high gloss over what you already have and it shoud provide good performance. Two coats and you're good to go or you can use a colored LPU.

I would stay away from the bed-liner coatings to the hull. You'll not be happy with them on the outside. Inside they will be great. And they will add a considerable amount of drag to the hull.

The polyurethane concrete coatings are about as tough as it gets, some of them are single component coatings in colors and some offer custom color tinting as well. Great UV protection so they will not fade as quickly as some "Boat" finishes.

Advantage is primarily ease of application and lower cost.

The two part polyurethane concrete coatings are designed to withstand hard use and abuse in industrial situations and still look good. They come under the heading of "industrial coatings" but there are a number of companies that make them and they work fine on glass or epoxy.

Advantge, harder finish that is designed for heavy duty use, but more expensive, equivalent to more expensive boat coatings. More difficult to apply and some of them require special equipment. But not all,

Sherwin Williams makes a broad line of urethane floor coatings not just house paint. Good stuff and relatively affordable.

[Frank Hagan]

Any thoughts on a tough durable finish for the hull of a trailered boat? It doesn't really need to be anti-fouling' date=' as it will be in the water at most 3-4 days. As I understand it, bottom paint only has a 1-2 year life span, then it needs to be re-applied.[/quote']

Its hard to find a recommendation for "bottom paint" that isn't sacrificial or otherwise intended to deter marine life. For trailerable boats you can go two ways ... find a paint that is inexpensive enough that you won't mind re-applying every year or so, or go with the hardest, most durable paint you can find.

Awlgrip is probably like all of the marine "topsides" paints ... they state that they are only for above the waterline. But I'll bet Awlgrip or the other 2 part paints would all be great on a trailerable boat.