Coresound 20 mk3 lashing

[Noah Johnson]

I'm working on the spars for Coresound 20 mk3 hull number 19. I used a few different kinds of lashing to try to attach the spar to the Snotter. All of them are too long and they bottom out the Snotter when I pull it tight. Let me know if yall have any advice thank you.  -Noah (Boatingblacksmith)

[RED]

Respectfully, I'm trying to understand your problem but your diagram is showing the wrong end of the sprit (if I'm understanding the problem correctly).  If you're getting "two-blocked" on the fwd end,and no amount of moving the blocks fixes it, you may need a longer sprit. 

On the front of my sprit I lashed on a block as shown in the photo, I could have made the line holding the block much shorter.... not sure if that helps.  What I did here is make a loop of line from amsteel by tieing a diamond knot, then laid the loop on the spar and lashed that line down with lash-it, of all things, putting the diamond knot on the far side of the lashing so it would bear up against the lashing. I think I used 3444 from ABOK. 

[R Jones]

 

[R Jones]

Got my photos up, but lost my text.  Replacement sails for my CS17mk1 were slightly longer in the foot, so I came up with the above solution.  If you zoom in on the boom end you'll see a small u shaped shackle.  It is kind of a pain to assemble but helped me avoid making a new boom.  Drilling holes in the boom was probably not a great idea, but it hasn't been a problem. 

Randy Jones

[Hirilonde]

I made my main sprit a little shorther than desired. I scarfed a piece on to make it longer.

[Don Silsbe]

Sometimes it’s just easier to find a good 2x6x10’, and rip out a new, longer sprit.  And don’t fuss over drilling holes in the sprits.  Just keep them as small as possible.