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MisterMoon

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Everything posted by MisterMoon

  1. I'm getting closer and closer to pulling the trigger on some major surgery on Bandaloop. I'm tiring of open boat cruising and don't have the time, the space, or the budget to build a 20 mark 3. Instead, I'm contemplating putting a small Bolger Birdwatcher-style slot-top cuddy to create a dry and comforatable space for one person and two in a pinch. Here's a basic drawing of what I'm thinking.... To start, I will build a bulkhead aft of the center thwart. All of the seat tanks forward of that bulkhead will cut down 6" lower, leaving the fronts of the tanks as longitudinal web stringers. The entire area will be then be decked over with access hatches to what storage space remains in the bilge. This should give two berths nearly 7 feet long, albeit one will be narrower due to the off center centerboard case. (The dashed line shows the original seat top height, the solid line shows the new sole.) I will cut away the forward deck to the forward bulkhead. The cabin shown has 39" height aft and will have 22" wide slot top running the full length of the cabin that will be covered with fabric to keep out the water. The cuddy will have oarports and a removable bench to allow rowing from the forward position. The oarports will seal with removable gasketed panels using the details drawn by Phil Bolger on his Birdwatcher. I plan to redo the centerboard to seal the top and get rid of all the water that comes in that way. Aft of the cabin I plan to build a bridgedeck that will stand 18" high above the cabin sole to create foot room for the sleeping crew. (This drawing shows the bridgedeck forward of the mizzen mast. It will be aft with the mizzen mast step boxed in and draining into the cockpit.) I've got to work out where to put my external fuel tank which is currently under the center thwart, but I think I can sacrifice a little space under one side of the bridge deck to make it work. I think I can do this and only add 40 lbs to the boat, basically the weight of 1.5 sheets of 6 mm plywood and the glass and resin. There will be a stringer or two to strengthen the top of the bridgedeck and the cabin roof. The rest will all be stitch and tape. Next step is to mock up as much as I can in 1/8 doorskin duct tape and take real measurements to see if the ergonomic work out like I think they will. One issue I've already discovered how/where to stow my 9' oars? Other long things like boathooks and paddles are also problematic... Thoughts? Opinions?
  2. Both snotter and downhaul should be led aft as they will be adjusted fairly often. Both snotter and downhaul should be led aft as they will be adjusted fairly often.
  3. Definitely lead the snotter and down haul aft. It would be nice if the snotter were double ended to both sides by the way. It always seems to be on low side when I want to adjust it. I'm starting to think leaving the halyard forward would be a good thing. Anyway, the coming ends behind where the cleats for the main controls are located on the coaming.
  4. Bandaloop originally had coamings extending to the transom. Yes, they made hiking out very uncomfortable. I planed them off flush aft of the center thwart and am very happy with the change. One's rear end takes enough of a beating sailing small boats! One suggestion if you go this route is that you put a little interceptor from the end of the coaming to the rail. Otherwise all the water that is deflected by the coaming on the windward side just runs off the end on to your lap. Right now, mine are made out of gorilla tape, but I plan to glue in a little strip of wood sometime soon.
  5. I would advise glassing the underside of the seats before installing them. Mine sometimes crack ominously if you put a knee in the wrong spot.
  6. I have a similar arrangement. But I'd put you in the "never" column since you don't actually use the center thwart.
  7. This is for people who have Core Sound boats with oar sockets positioned for the center thwart rowing position. How often do you you use it? When I got my boat it had oar sockets only in the center position. In use I've discovered it's too much of a hassle to pluck the mizzen mast in order to use them. Since I've had the boat, I've added sockets for rowing from the front cockpit and also another set aft to allow rowing from the helmsman's cockpit (using a removable thwart). The reality is I pretty much use only the front position, even when singlehanded. The only time the rear position saw a little use during an EC when I wanted to row while my crew slept up forward.
  8. The only difference between Tom's arrangement and mine is that instead of putting a block on the mast, I've got the block on the sprit boom. This does put some downward pull on the sprit, which may not be ideal in theory, but to be totally honest I doubt the difference is worth mentioning. One advantage of putting that block on the boom is you can keep mizzen sheet rigged during trailering and storage. Not having to reeve it every time you step or pull the mast saves a little time and hassle. I really don't like the headbanger idea for a the sheet. How are you supposed to release the cleat when the boom is on the leeward side of the sail? I have the double ended main sheet set up as shown in the plans. For those contemplating other options for the main, don't. I think it works best as drawn. You really need to keep the main close at hand at all times, especially in gusty conditions. Having it always cleated on the windward rail is optimal. In a gust easing the main relieves heeling pressure and also moves the COE aft, turning the boat to windward which also reduces the heeling moment from the mizzen. I find it's much less critical to play the mizzen than it is the main. This forum seems to be create more posts about building than sailing. For those of you who have been sailing your CS 17-20s for a while, I'd be curious to know how much you actually use the center thwart rowing position. I have my suspicions...
  9. More like 25-28" forward of the mast. I do have the forward cockpit decked over as well, a huge improvement if you haven't done so, BTW. Only real problem with this arrangement is if you run aground while rowing with the CB down. The knob on top of the CB is a bit of a taint-knocker for the rower.
  10. The cost of any boat building project will be three times as much as you tell your wife it will be. On a more serious note (not that my first statement is wrong), the real answer is "it depends". It depends on what quality materials you use, how you source them, how you source sails and sailing gear, and what level of finish you desire. I can't speak for a Weekender since I've never built one (not a fan), but assuming the cheapest possible build is 1, you could spend anywhere between 1 and 5.
  11. I've never used the center thwart for rowing. It's a lot less trouble to row from the front cockpit, bracing your feet on the mizzen than it is to pluck out the mizzen mast. Also, this way means you will be much less hesitant to break out the oars for a quick nudge because you don't have to ruin the boat for sailing in order to row.
  12. This is how mine is rigged. It does occasionally snag on the outboard starter handle and the stern cleats when jibing. Having never sailed with the double ended version shown in the plans, I can't say if it's better or worse. I'm not contemplating a change in any case.
  13. That's why after building three boats I *bought* a finished Core Sound. I'd much rather go sailing.
  14. I don't know yet. Based on my experience with the movable bench. I'm pretty sure I would not want it any bigger. If I late find out there's a unanticipated issue, I'll let you know. One one or another we will know for sure after the Florida 120 in mid May. Dale, you should come!
  15. Hey oyster. I have not forgotten those fine shrimp and grits! No fuel tank Dave. My fuel tank lives on a platform under the thwart in the middle of the boat. You can see the red tank in one of my photos. The fuel line runs from there through the starboard seat locker and will now exit in the aft center of this new locker.
  16. Paying this off. Here is the (mostly) finished result. Still need to screw down the hatch and run the gas line for the outboard through it's little port aft of the hatch.
  17. One thing to remember is DWL is a somewhat arbitrary line used in the design process to figure out hydrostatics. Moving the DWL up or down a little bit changes this hydrostatics, usually not all that drastically. DWL doesn't mean maximum safe displacement. Overloading any boat is unsafe, but my experience with my CS17 is that it will haul quite a large load quite satisfactorily.
  18. It's 21" long by 32" wide. But the size was mostly dictated by the hatch I already had on hand.
  19. The forward hatch on mine is only for stuff you need at anchor: sleeping bags and pads, camp chairs, camp clothes, extra food and water, etc. it's worth having the forward hatch, IMO. My boat did not have one originally and I'm very glad to have it now.
  20. I've always wished for a bit more storage in the rear of my no-lazarette CS-17. Also, the cockpit benches aft are too narrow to be all that comfortable. To help that problem, I built a removeable bench to fit the aft cockpit before the EC. It worked very well and it gave the helmsman more seating options and increased overall comfort. I finally realized that the rearmost 20" of cockpit wasn't really necessary, so why not put a locker there? And that's what I've done. It needs to be glassed and painted still, but I'm pretty happy with the result giving more convenient storage and more floatation as well as increased lounging space. Win-win-win, especially since I don't really care about the lost footwell space. Decking over the forward cockpit proved to me that I won't miss it.
  21. Thanks Graham. This question is coming from some rather arbitrary 'rules' being floated by Chief in Watertribe. If my boat is on its DWL (an arbitrary line itself) at 1150# and it loading it to 1450# puts it down on its lines one inch deeper, it might be slower but no less 'safe'. Even as a notorious over packer, I've never felt like the my boat was overloaded. In fact in some respects she feels better with a bit of a load on.
  22. Phil, I have no doubt La Perla is muuuuuch lighter than Bandaloop. My guess for the last two ECs is we are probably between 1,000 and 1,100 lbs all up. We only ever carry at most 6 gallons (50 lbs) of water for two people.
  23. Having the data point for a CS-20 helps. My initial wild assed guess of the waterplane area at DWL is around 54 square feet (LWL 16' x BWL 5' X 68% to correct for the pointy bits), Based on that, I estimate 1" of immersion above DWL is around 287 lbs per inch immersion. Applying the same logic to the CS-20, I get 375 lbs per inch as Graham did in the other thread using (19 x 5.5 x 68%) = 71 square feet.
  24. Any idea what would be the maximum "safe" loading for a CS-17 would be. My boat weighs approximately 400 lbs, my feeling based on experience is it would be fine at 1200 lbs displacement. What is ppi increase in displacement above the DWL?
  25. I carry liability only on my homeowners. Towing insurance is probably a better buy.
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