Arnie Eaton

I really think glassing of the cabin top, sides and deck would be in order. This will prevent checking of the plywood. Epoxy by itself will not prevent checking. In my experience glass is the only thing which will prevent it from happening. But it's your boat.

Go ahead Frank and set it up. The only danger I see is becoming like a few other forums where much dissent occurs.

Looks like this race is OVER! You'al need to make the rules and agree to them BEFORE THE NEXT RACE BEGINS.

I have been thinking of a topsail for my Vac. I have it pretty well thought out except for the interferance of the gaff control lines. I really think they won't interfer very much but there could be chafing as the TS lays against them. Of course this would only happen on one tack. I have veiwed many photos of TS and you can see the lines behind the sail. One of the problems would be in reefing the TS by releasing the halyard so it would lay behind the main. You could only do this on one tack as the gaff lines would be in the way on the other. Any thoughts on this from all you experts out there?

When plywood is stressed such as how the core sound and Stevenson's boats are made, it becomes very strong. Take a pc of paper, fold it in half, now the paper becomes very strong and won't bend easy across the fold. Plywood sorta works the same way but different. (don't use the paper to make your boat) There is a name for it but it escapes me at the moment. Epoxy and glass will add a little to the strenght but not much. It mainly is for protecting the wood from dampness and water. Also prevents checking of Doug Fir plywood.

Jan, you need a special crimper. You can get a simple one at most GOOD hardware stores. Be sure to crimp at least twice at each connection. Take a pc of the cable with you to ensure you get the right size. Crimping three times would even be better.

I built the system on my Vac. using most of Tom's plan. I used an AL. shaft, 1 inch in dia., mounted to surface bearing blocks, one on the stern inside and one on the inside of the Las. with the balance of the shaft sticking out to mount the wheel. The wheel has a keyway as does the shaft which locks the wheel to the shaft. I also used steel cable instead of rope. No strech at all. System is very smooth to operate. I run the cable thru the shaft with two set screws, one from each side, which locks the cable in place. Yes I do have a turnbuckle for adjustment. As the shaft was slightly oversized, I sanded the shaft while mounted in my lathe, down to the one inch so it would fit thru the bearing blocks. Cutting the threads on the shaft was a bear, but I had the keyway work done by a machinest. I would post a pic if I knew how. Not that computer savy.

Almost ready to glass the monster. Been under the weather for a spell, but feeling fine now. Lots of company lately and that slows things down.

Yes Jan, you should not have a problem. 6 oz glass cloth is 6 oz glass cloth.

Of course the upper rail has a function. You feel it with your feet as you go forward to tend to the foresails. This is to help you NOT step over the side but help you know where the side is. Sometimes called toekick. It will also funnel water that comes over the bow during heavy weather down your neck in the cockpit if you have forgotten to put scuppers in the sides just below the rails. (unless you have seat backs above the deck.)

Thanks a lot Jake. Pictures are worth a thousand words.

1st of all, maybe you should take it back and get one not so green. It may take a couple months to dry it out. Do not leave it outdoors, to much heat will not help keep it from warping. A dry place indoors would be best. You also may want to consider laminateing two nice dry 2 x 4's together with a half inch plywood piece between. Use thickened epoxy as glue and D. Fir for the 2x4's. You could also do a birdsmouth mast for lightness, not hard at all. What ever, good luck.

Welcome to the club. It took me about two years to get my sails. Sorry I can't help you, just keep posting to his website, if it is still up. Also check with the local Chamber of Commerce to see if he has moved.

"Wind Song" is the name of a company which makes wind socks and other wind related items here in Hamilton. You know the kind, flowers, bright colors, tails blowing. I just love the name so asked the owner if I could use it. She said it is copy writed, but gave permission. I really think it is just right for a sailboat.

I designed a 100% jib for my Vacationer and had Ulta Sails make it for me. Paul seems to think it will work very well. I'll know later this spring when I use it. Anyway here are the measurements: The luff is 17' 6", the leach is 13'9" and the foot is 10' even. The miter line is 6'3" from the tack. Paul has these measurements and has made this same jib for others. Sorry I don't have any Weekender sail measurements.

I have the Porter Cable, model 333VS. Has Variable Speed. Also I have the 10 foot hose model 39332. Both work great

This reminds me of the Sea Scout Ship "SSS Ramwell" out of Everett Washington when I was a kid. Schooner Rig and made from a 50" Gig off the USS Washington, a battleship from WW1. Bought surplus by a guy named Ramwell and decked over, then rigged as a schooner. He donated the ship to the Sea Scouts. I was a Sea Scout from '43 to '51. Had many adventures on that old tub all though out the Sound.

All who use epoxy as a finish coat should be aware that epoxy will break down from exposure to sunlight. One must cover epoxy with a good UV resistant varnish for protection. Jake, cover your kayak and Weekender with varnish.

Just heard that the movie, "Master and Commander" is coming out on DVD this Tuesday, the 20th. I am going to be sure and purchase a copy. Thought everyone would be interested.

Scuppers are just holes thru the upper side wall to let any water on deck to drain. They must be level or slightly below level to really work. Abouut two or three inches long and about 3/4" high. You will need 3 or 4 along the area of the cabin rear maybe 2 feet apart (the lowest part of the deck) If your sides at the top are flush with the deck, no scuppers are needed. (or possible). Some builders have just a 1x2 along the deck edge as a toe kick. If you do that, just leave small sections off so thw water on deck can drain. On my Vacationer, I ran the sides up above the deck edge about 2.5 inches, then glued and screwed 3/4 X 1.5 stock along the top on both sides. The one on the outside is a rubrail and the one inside is a toekick. Nice to have when the deck is wet, might save a dunking.

Greg, go back to the website and click on "BOOKS" at the top. It is listed.

Has anyone made the instant catboat designed by Harold Payson? I have had the book for a number of years now and recently started to think another boat to build. My Vacationer is almost done and with still 17 sheets of AB Marine 1/4 plywood on hand this boat would use 10 of them. A very nice looking boat made the "Tack and Tape" method. I have some experience with this method while making a D-4 dingy. Anyway if you have made this boat, I would like to hear of any problems, good or bad.

Jake, you should take in account the lines for the gaff. Either have a lot of line so you can take the lines to the mast before you put the cover on or lower the mast and then put the cover on the whole lot. I'm thinking of covering after all are together.

Barry you have a PM.

For those of you who are thinking of or may have a loose footed main sail, I have outhauls, one of each for the Weekender and Vacationer. The Weekender one I got from Capt Jake and the Vac. one I made the track myself. Both have the track and slides. In addition, the Vac one has the shackle and sail protector. The track is SS and the standoff is Al. The one for the Weekender is 12" and the one for the Vac. is 18" long. You will need to make the rigging. For more info e-mail me. aeeaton@cybernet1.com. Arnie Eaton P.S. I did make two Vac. setups, one of which will be used on my Vac. The Vacationer outhaul has been sold.