ulpilotrmh

Hey Gary, I like that idea. That way there's only one protrusion to interfere with the luff sleeve. Russ

Hey Mark: I have some experience protecting aircraft aluminum from corrosion. I polished the raw tubing with brown "Scotchguard" pads, wiped them down with lacquer thinner, sprayed 2 coats of self etching primer and 2 coats of gloss white Krylon. I will be using the reefing main and when I recieve it, and see how loosly the luff sleeve fits the mast, I intend to add some kind of easily removeable pin at each of the sections to prevent them from twisting. I'm thinking of something like a long 1/4 inch Stainless steel clevis pin, SS washer and a split ring, as long as the luff will allow it and still easily drop down the mast. The bottom section will not twist because of the contoured block of wood at its base. Russ

Thanks Gary. It'll be a little tougher with a 6 or 7 foot section. Russ

I started work on my S-10 a few weeks ago. I haven't worked on it every day, just off and on, waiting for the CNC routed plywood parts. I had some mahogany laying around and made up the breast hook and quarter knees. Also have the tiller made, except for the slot to fit over the rudder head. About a week ago I started working on the mast. The bottom two aluminum sections are done, and I'll start on the wood upper section today. The upper section will be laid up out of cypress birds mouth staves, and tapered to 1 1/4 inches at the top. I made up a one foot straight section of mast just to see how to do it. I did it all on the table saw. Don't need no stinking router bit. Russ

Has anybody else had problems adding photos lately? The method seems to have been changed, and isn't working for me. I get a message saying something like " Web site cannot be found." Russ

Greg: I've contacted graham about the unavailabilty of Sitka Spruce and even Douglas fir for my S10. He suggested mahogany, which is available in this area, as a sutable substitute for use in the mast and boom. Russ Hauser Tavares, FL

On my mast, I intend to paint the mast the same way I painted aluminum structure on the planes I built. First, scrub the tubing with Scotchbrite pads to create some "tooth" to help the paint bond to the aluminum. Do not use steel wool! Particles of the wool will be imbeded in the aluminum and will rust and cause the aluminum to corrode. The correct Scotchbrite pads are available from auto paint stores. Wipe down the tubing with MEK or lacquer. Next, spray on a coat or two of "Self Etching Primer," (Available at most auto part stores), then your choice of Krylon or Rustolium paint. I intend to paint the epoxy, except where it is covered by the larger tubing. I have a limited supply of Scotchbrite pads for those who can't find them locally. Contact me at ulpilotrmh@aol.com Russ

Greg: Try a local woodcraft store, that's where I found some. Russ

Greg: Seems to me that if you were able to get good tight glue joints with the 1/4 x 1 1/2 staves, that you colud finish them "Bright," and it would not be readily apparent that they were laminated. Russ

Hey Wes: I have a Tohatsu 3.5 HP, and it weighs 43 pounds. It's been a great motor so far. Just wish it had reverse. Russ

Gary: I thought 6 feet a little short as well, but they'll be okay if needed and will dtow easily on my S-10N. Russ

Is this what you're looking for? http://tinyurl.com/36wbnk Russ

Also, on my plans, the seat appears to be parrallel with the shear. Russ

My S-10N plans show that the top of the bow seat is to be sloped aft for drainage. Russ

Okay, here goes another attempt to teach my self to post photos to a thread. This is my Emmert Patternmaker's Vise. They haven't been made since the 1960's, but are available on eBay for a few hundred dollars. If you had one, you'd agree it was money well spent. There is a modern smaller, made in China or Thaiwan knock off available from Woodcraft.

How does one post photos with a reply? I tried to add them in a reply to this thread, but got an error message. Is it because this is such an old thread? Would I be able to post the photos if I started a new thread?

Spindrift 10N. Calls for a 1 5/8 diameter, 6 foot long fir closet pole.

Where do you guys find 1 5/8 inch diameter, 6 foot long fir closet poles?

If you're interested in boat speed, VC-17 is very slippery when wet. It's also easy to apply with a roller and dries in minutes. Interlux Perfection sounds like a nice topsides paint... they also make a VC Performance mix for below waterline... but I'm not familiar with either of them. Just going off marketing descriptions.

Thanks Brad, that's exactly what I needed.

Not sure this is relavent, but I had the same choice to make with the racing sails on my catalina 22. I decided I couldn't stand the thought of creasing or wrinkling these expensive pieces of dacron and Mylar. I went to a local carpet store and begged them for one of their heavy 12 foot cardboard rolls that the carpet is wound upon. They were happy to give me one, as they throw them away anyway. My sails are rolled together on the tube and hung on a wall in my garage. The main has the battens in the pockets with the battens oriented parrallel with the carpet tube before rolling the sails. When trailering the boat, the sails, still on the tube are carried in the cabin. when the sails are in use, the tube is in a hotel room, or kept in the cabin. If I were a cruiser, the tube would be in the way and I'd have to come up with some way of storing it out of the weather. I'll have to come up with a way of storing the S-10N sails. Maybe a shorter carpet tube. I'd ad a photo, but can't seem to get "Add Image To Post" to work. Worked this time!

You're right Steve, I want to know boat speed thru the water to see what effect changes in sail trim have on my boat speed. I have a Garmin GPS that will give me some idea of what I'm doing, but a speed log would be more accurate.

Is there such a thing as a C, D, or AA cell powered speed log?